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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
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Brake caliper leaks - your opinion please

  • Thread starter Thread starter jcode68
  • Start date Start date Sep 3, 2006

jcode68

Active Member
Jul 15, 2003
892
1
29
Massachussetts
Sep 3, 2006
#1
  • Sep 3, 2006
  • #1
I just installed a brand new SSBC Force 10 front disc brake kit and was in the process of bleeding today. After bleeding the rears, I went up front and noticed a puddle of brake fluid under the right front caliper. Closer inspection, I could see the leak was coming from the brake line connection at the caliper. I tightened the line thinking the brass crush washer wasn't fully seated - still leaked. I removed the line to see what was going on and here is what I found:



You are looking at a closeup of the brake line connetion on the caliper. As you can see, there are very deep grooves machined into the surface, which are preventing the brass washer to fully seat and seal the line. I checked the other caliper for leaks and it too is leaking, although very slightly, but both calipers have the same grooved surface. I am going to call SSBC on Tuesday and arrange to return/exchange calipers. I wanted to post on Stangnet to get feedback just in case they are supposed to be like this, although I can't imagine this is the way they should be. I'm pretty miffed since I wanted to complete the brakes this weekend and finally test them. This will now likely take another 2 weeks of shipping parts back and forth before this is resolved. Appreciate the feedback.
 
G

gsxrken

Member
Sep 12, 2005
206
1
18
Weschester County, NY
Sep 3, 2006
#2
  • Sep 3, 2006
  • #2
I've seen them grooved before without issue, believe it or not. Make sure the brass block on your hose end is not contacting the body of the caliper and preventing the washers from seating flush. I this on a stock replacement hose I bought and had to grind down the corner a bit. There looks like there was a little action on the red paint in the picture you posted.
 
C

Cobra ssc

Member
May 31, 2006
80
0
7
Austin, TX
Sep 3, 2006
#3
  • Sep 3, 2006
  • #3
the groove is supposed to be there to help the washer seat. I'm guessing that brass washers were supplied with the brakes? If they were, then they should be the correct size otherwise, find the correct size and try it again. Are you using the stock lines?
 

jcode68

Active Member
Jul 15, 2003
892
1
29
Massachussetts
Sep 3, 2006
#4
  • Sep 3, 2006
  • #4
Thanks for the feedback guys. The reason I posted this thread was because I had a hunch that maybe the grooves are supposed to be there, but wasn't sure. The lines came with the kit, they are braided lines, but don't have a brass block on the end, they are just round. Kit also came with the brass washers and they seemed to fit fine, but I will pick up some new ones tomorrow and try again. The "scratch" in the red finish is from the wrench making contact, not from the washer or fitting on the end of the hose. Instructions spec 20 lbs of tourque for the line fittings, so they are not supposed to be super tight. Tomorrow is another day.
 
C

commonrail

New Member
May 13, 2006
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0
Sep 3, 2006
#5
  • Sep 3, 2006
  • #5
The groove is there to make a sealing channel in the copper seal. You should try to very carefully clean all the paint away from the Cu sealing surface which is indicated in your photo. Then reinstall the line with NEW coppers with a thin coating of vasoline on both sides of the Cu seal, and retighten it. The vasoline will reduce the friction while allowing the sealing groove to leave its mark (so to speak). Note: you can forget about reusing Cu seals about 99.9 % of the time, although I'm certain I'll take crap for making that statement!
 

tos

Founding Member
Apr 27, 2001
896
68
59
Cincinnati Ohio
Sep 4, 2006
#6
  • Sep 4, 2006
  • #6
I may be mistaken but looking at your picture it looks like your brakeline fitting is contacting the caliper. There is what looks like a gouge in your paint on the caliper that maybe an indication the hose flange is contacting there. And those grooves are there to press into the brass seal and form a stronger seal, if you look on your hose flange you will see less prominent grooves in it as well.
 

jcode68

Active Member
Jul 15, 2003
892
1
29
Massachussetts
Sep 4, 2006
#7
  • Sep 4, 2006
  • #7
tos said:
I may be mistaken but looking at your picture it looks like your brakeline fitting is contacting the caliper. There is what looks like a gouge in your paint on the caliper that maybe an indication the hose flange is contacting there. And those grooves are there to press into the brass seal and form a stronger seal, if you look on your hose flange you will see less prominent grooves in it as well.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the response. The mark you see on the caliper was caused by the wrench hitting the caliper when I loosened the line. I didn't get a chance to try new copper washers today, hopefully will find some time to work on it during the week. Thanks for the responses everyone.
 

thehueypilot

Active Member
Feb 25, 2004
1,084
0
37
Medina,Tennessee
Sep 4, 2006
#8
  • Sep 4, 2006
  • #8
The brake hose block connection is directional meaning it has to go on a certain way. I put mine on upside down whiched caused a big leak like you had. If you look at the block you will see that it is actually offset more one one side than the other. Might want to double check it.....
 

LMan

Founding Member
Aug 10, 2002
1,246
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0
Mom's basement
Sep 5, 2006
#9
  • Sep 5, 2006
  • #9
What sort of flare (s) are there on the line?
 

jcode68

Active Member
Jul 15, 2003
892
1
29
Massachussetts
Sep 5, 2006
#10
  • Sep 5, 2006
  • #10
thehueypilot said:
The brake hose block connection is directional meaning it has to go on a certain way. I put mine on upside down whiched caused a big leak like you had. If you look at the block you will see that it is actually offset more one one side than the other. Might want to double check it.....
Click to expand...

The lines that came with the kit do not have the blocks on the end, they are braided lines with a threaded male end, which attaches to the caliper.

Lman, there is no flare involved with this connection.
 

jcode68

Active Member
Jul 15, 2003
892
1
29
Massachussetts
Sep 12, 2006
#11
  • Sep 12, 2006
  • #11
Just thought I would close the book on this one - I replaced the copper washer and used grease on one side to avoid friction problem when tightening and no more leak As usual, StangNet Rules! :SNSign:
 
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