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brake conversion 2 to 3 conversion question

  • Thread starter Thread starter oldfox
  • Start date Start date Feb 6, 2011
O

oldfox

Member
Feb 19, 2009
234
6
18
Feb 6, 2011
#1
  • Feb 6, 2011
  • #1
Hi, When doing a 5 lug conversion instead of using the 2-3 kit
couldn't I just use a line lock?
Gut the proportion valve and come out of the valve into a line lock
and then two lines out of the line lock the front wheels?
And run the adjustable valve for the rear brakes?
I was looking at line locks and they got a lot of openings looks like having
two "out lines" would be no problem. Do you think this would work?
 
O

oldfox

Member
Feb 19, 2009
234
6
18
Feb 6, 2011
#2
  • Feb 6, 2011
  • #2
As I set here and look at my post I ask myself,
"Why even run the factory proportioning valve?" if you are going to
gut it anyway why use it?
Rear brakes-- The line would run out of the master cylinder into a
willwood adjustable proportioning and then to the rear wheels.

Front brake lines--Out of the master cylinder into the line lock and
two lines out of the line lock and to the front wheels
(the line lock has two places for the "fluid out lines")

I need some input here

Would this work? --I'm pretty good at making my own lines --

 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,366
18,112
224
Massachusetts
Feb 6, 2011
#3
  • Feb 6, 2011
  • #3
oldfox said:
As I set here and look at my post I ask myself,
"Why even run the factory proportioning valve?" if you are going to
gut it anyway why use it?
Rear brakes-- The line would run out of the master cylinder into a
willwood adjustable proportioning and then to the rear wheels.

Front brake lines--Out of the master cylinder into the line lock and
two lines out of the line lock and to the front wheels
(the line lock has two places for the "fluid out lines")

I need some input here

Would this work? --I'm pretty good at making my own lines --

Click to expand...

Yes. That would work fine.


Why keep the prop valve? Because it's not a prop valve. It's a combination valve. The format half contains the prop valve and the rear half contains a shuttle valve...which is a safety device.

So by eliminating the combo valve, you eliminate a safety device
 
O

oldfox

Member
Feb 19, 2009
234
6
18
Feb 6, 2011
#4
  • Feb 6, 2011
  • #4
Mustang5L5 said:
Yes. That would work fine.


Why keep the prop valve? Because it's not a prop valve. It's a combination valve. The format half contains the prop valve and the rear half contains a shuttle valve...which is a safety device.

So by eliminating the combo valve, you eliminate a safety device
Click to expand...


Ok I didn't know that,,, what does the shuttel valve part do?
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,366
18,112
224
Massachusetts
Feb 6, 2011
#5
  • Feb 6, 2011
  • #5
The intent is that in the event a brake line fails, the shuttle valve blocks flow to the leaking line allowing you to stop.

However, the few combo valves I have dissected have had the shuttle valves seized in place. So who knows of it would function.

The master cylinder also has such a safety provision as well, so by eliminating the combo valve, you go from 2 safety features to 1....assuming the shuttle valve works at all
 
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