Brake conversion

You say you're dirt poor? Then why do you think you need better brakes? The '99-up cars with their PBR dual piston front calipers and rear disks set ups are more than capable of halting a Mustang with stock size wheels down from any speed. :shrug:


You would think that, but there were a few times i was driving and had to slam on myt brakes and got a little nervous that I wasn't going to stop in time.


The 99-04 twin piston 10.8" brakes are good for the average driver...but ever since i put my 2-piston 13" Mach 1 kit on....I feel MUCH safer.
 
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are the cross drilled or slotted not spose to have an advantage over the plain rotors? how are the cobra calipers different from the stock GT?



For a street car...no advantage. They are just for looks only. For performance, the plain faced rotors are different.

The Cobra calipers are completely different. That's like asking what's the difference between a Caliper on a Mustang and a Caliper on a Caddillac.

Some visual aides.

Stock 2-piston 99-04 GT calioer
View attachment 408044


'94-98 Cobra and 03/04 Mach 1 caliper side by side
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Puny stock 10.8" GT brakes
View attachment 408048

Monster 13" Mach 1 brakes
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Not only is it a performance upgrade...it's an appearance upgrade as well!

ANy questions?? ;)
 

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Yes, how do you keep your brakes so clean and shiney. ;)



Beleive it or not, it's pretty low maintainence.

I used that $15 brush on duplicolor kit which bakes onto the caliper when you use them. The brake dust wipes right off with water and a sponge. I also painted the rotor hats with High temp engine paint so the dust also wipes right off. I usually just reach in between the spokes with the sponge and wipe.

Every 2-3 months I pull the wheel and give it a really good cleaning, but i could prob get away without doing that.

I'm also running the OEM Ford pads...which don't dust as much. I have the rears done the same way. I get tons of compliments on the brakes
 
You say you're dirt poor? Then why do you think you need better brakes? The '99-up cars with their PBR dual piston front calipers and rear disks set ups are more than capable of halting a Mustang with stock size wheels down from any speed. :shrug:

Thanks buddy....any caliper will slow any car down from any speed...think about that... the goal is to do it faster...
:Zip2:
 
Thanks buddy....any caliper will slow any car down from any speed...think about that... the goal is to do it faster...
:Zip2:

Well smart guy, since you’ve got your facts mixed up a little bit, here’s something for you to think about!!! Based on the weight of the car and the rotational mass of the stock wheel/tire combinations, the dual piston calipers that came with the car do a much better job of slowing it down when you compare the old single piston versions on the earlier SN95's, or the single piston disk/drum brakes on the Fox's. This is the reason I asked!

On top of that, the multiple piston design doesn't necessarily do a much better job of "putting on the binders" so to speak, but allows the operator to modulate the brakes more precisely under braking reducing the possibility of fade. It does this by applying pressure to the brake pad more evenly over the entire area of the pad, rather than just the center of it. It’s the larger rotor that controls the majority of the ability to “slow the car down” by allowing room for larger brake pads and more over all surface area. This allows for more material on the rotor and the ability to more efficiently dissipate heat.

My question was legitimate, since it’s well known the stock brakes do a decent job of slowing the new edge mustangs down in comparison to the earlier versions that were bolted basically onto the same car. You state you have limited funds, so you might want to consider things like an alternative designed rotor, ceramic brake pads or just simply changing the way you torque your wheels on.

I wasn’t trying to be a jerk, I was trying to get you to elaborate on your situation. So save the :Zip2: smiley for guys who aren’t legitimately trying to help you out! :nono:
 
Well smart guy, since you’ve got your facts mixed up a little bit, here’s something for you to think about!!! Based on the weight of the car and the rotational mass of the stock wheel/tire combinations, the dual piston calipers that came with the car do a much better job of slowing it down when you compare the old single piston versions on the earlier SN95's, or the single piston disk/drum brakes on the Fox's. This is the reason I asked!

On top of that, the multiple piston design doesn't necessarily do a much better job of "putting on the binders" so to speak, but allows the operator to modulate the brakes more precisely under braking reducing the possibility of fade. It does this by applying pressure to the brake pad more evenly over the entire area of the pad, rather than just the center of it. It’s the larger rotor that controls the majority of the ability to “slow the car down” by allowing room for larger brake pads and more over all surface area. This allows for more material on the rotor and the ability to more efficiently dissipate heat.

My question was legitimate, since it’s well known the stock brakes do a decent job of slowing the new edge mustangs down in comparison to the earlier versions that were bolted basically onto the same car. You state you have limited funds, so you might want to consider things like an alternative designed rotor, ceramic brake pads or just simply changing the way you torque your wheels on.

I wasn’t trying to be a jerk, I was trying to get you to elaborate on your situation. So save the :Zip2: smiley for guys who aren’t legitimately trying to help you out! :nono:

i apologize. i took the post wrong. ive been told that ceramic pads dont make a big difference in the braking. what alternative design rotor will help and what do you mean by the way the wheels are torqued on?
 
i apologize. i took the post wrong. ive been told that ceramic pads dont make a big difference in the braking. what alternative design rotor will help and what do you mean by the way the wheels are torqued on?

The ceramic pads don't necessarily stop you that much better under general driving conditions by comparison, but when you need to haul your car down from speeds in a jiffy, they fair much better and don’t fade like standard steel or organic pads. They’re ceramic construction helps them dissipate heat much better which would help with your warping problem. Not only that, but they're nearly dust free and last twice as long as.

By alternative rotor design, I was referring to either slotted, or cross drilled rotors to again aid in cooling and reduce the chance of warp age. Any time you can remove heat from the rotor, you’ll improve braking capability and repeatability. If you can, buy a set with the zinc coating, as they have a tendency to resist rust better than standard rotors.

Finally, when you re install your wheel nuts, toque them to approx 90-100lbs/ft (it doesn't have to be fancy....if you've got access to an impact gun and a torque stick, have at it. Otherwise, pick yourself up a cheap torque wrench). They don't have to be exactly 95lbs/ft, but they should all be torqued within a couple of pounds of one and other to ensure an even clamping force across the wheel. To help evenly distribute the load, torque every second wheel nut on your way around the wheel until they're all tight. If they're torqued unevenly, or too tightly, then when the rotor heat up, it warps. Once it cools off, it has a tendency to permanently heat set in its new warped position, ruining the rotor.

This all applies to larger rotors and pads as well, if you do decide to go that route, but this will certainly improve braking on a stock system, which may satisfy your need for better brakes and not cost you the price of a complete brake system conversion in the process.