Brake kits - manual versus auto trans, why?

Post the answer when you find out. I'm curious too. Other than the width of the pedal pad itself, I can't imagine why they need to know the trans type.
Now, if asking Manual or power they mean the brakes, then yeah, I could see a difference in pedal ratios and supports.

It's the width of the brake pedal; I cut mine off while converting to manual. My car went from auto trans and manual drum brakes to T5 and factory power discs without changing the pedal support.

Not so much of a problem in a '67-'70 Mustang if you are converting to power brakes and have a manual transmission and if you are using the factory-style 7" diameter brake booster. The diameter of the 7" brake booster is small enough to clear the clutch linkage rod going through the firewall beside the booster [if you were to use the mecahnical setup].

In a '65/'66 Mustang though, it makes a big difference in what type of transmission you have if converting to power brakes. The stock '65/'66 Mustang power brake boosters have a bracket that stands the booster out away from the firewall. With this arrangement, there isn't enough room between the face of the booster and the back of the shock tower to mount a dual reservoir MC. --you are limited to a single reservoir MC.

A power brake booster that does work in the '65/'66 models with a dual reservoir MC is the '79-'93 2.3L "pancake" 9" diameter vacuum booster. However, the booster covers up the hole in the firewall where the factory mechanical clutch rod linkage passes through the firewall. This means with this booster, you would have to use a cable clutch to actuate the fork on a manual transmission.

The smaller 7" diameter '87-'95 5.0L Fox Mustang booster would also work in the '65/'66 models, but even with the smaller diameter, the booster still covers up the hole in the firewall of the '65/'66s because the hole on them is located much more "in-board" toward the steering column compared to the '67-'70 Mustangs.

With a '67-'70 Mustang, and the stock diameter vacuum booster, you could use the mechanical linkage or you could run a hydraulic clutch setup, or a cable clutch. In the '65/'66 models, if you use an aftermarket or retro-fit Fox booster, you will have no other choice but to use a cable clutch if running a manual transmission. --If the Mustang (regardless of model) has an automatic, the booster type doesn't matter as long as it will bolt up and fits within the confines of the space around it.

Late model M/C and Booster on 65 Mustang

Hi, I was reading your thread, and I had a couple questions for you. I have a 65 mustang with a 5.0 302 and a t5 tranny with a cable clutch. It currently has all wheel disc brakes and a booster with a single bowl master cylinder. I want to change that setup to a dual bowl. I know I need a proportioner, but will either the 79' - 93' 2.3L 9" pancake booster or the 87' -95' 5.0 7" booster with a dual bowl M/C work with my setup? do i need to remove the bracket that the current booster is bolted to to the fire wall? Thanks for your help.

ultrastang said:

In a '65/'66 Mustang though, it makes a big difference in what type of transmission you have if converting to power brakes. The stock '65/'66 Mustang power brake boosters have a bracket that stands the booster out away from the firewall. With this arrangement, there isn't enough room between the face of the booster and the back of the shock tower to mount a dual reservoir MC. --you are limited to a single reservoir MC.

Click to expand...

Not true. The 64-66 booster clears the tower with this cylinder:

Not true. The 64-66 booster clears the tower with this cylinder:

What type of booster and M/C is that? and where can I get one? Will it work for a manual T5 transmission with a cable clutch?

It comes from Master Power Brake. Glazier Nolan has used them on conversions, and they really like them.

The problem with that M/C and booster is they don't make one for Disc/Disc

2+2GT said:

Not true. The 64-66 booster clears the tower with this cylinder:

Click to expand...

It will clear. But the old MC's they used to used where better. They weren't chromed. Now the new chromed versions have bits of flaked off chrome in the MC bore, and when you bench bleed it looks like a shaken up snow globe.But the booster are a better batch. No clicking, and no bad diaphragms this time.

If indeed a 67, simply install the Correct, Factory 67 Midland booster. It will clear the Clutch linkage, bolt in.

When using the Factory Midland, you will need the Power Disc Pedal, the manual drum pedal will not work.


The factory 67 setup has leverage advantages as well. Your support under the dash will more than likely already have the factory drilled holes to mount the Power Disc pedal, however, there were some not drilled.

Dan @

Chockostang