Breaking in new engine?

Run non-synthetic for the 1st 500-1000 miles then switch to synthetic, the full will help the rings seal better. When I got mine back in I went up to 3rd or 4th gear and then hit it to load the engine up to about 60-65. Did this about 10 times then drove it 1000 miles and changed the oil to synthetic. Your rings will seal about 85-90% within the 1st few 100 miles I think it is. So run it up to about 60 10 times in 3rd or 4th gear (can't remember which) then drive it normally but try to constantly change cruis RPM's. You don't want to break the engine in just cruising on the I-state at 55-60mph because the rings won't seal properly. They need to constantly be loaded and unloaded like city driving. Unless it's a race motor then just run the **** out of it! :nice:
 
yep, run dino oil initially unless your engine builder specifically built the motor (rings and bores) for synthetic right off the bat (like vettes, etc have). you dont want to glaze the cylinder walls and such, as others said.

also, you will want to do some frequent oil changes initially, so cheap dino oil is great.
good luck.
 
Yeah, I'm gonna have to go ahead and disagree with you guys here... At first I thought that rings needed to seat properly at various speeds, etc. for a few hundred miles. I just had my 347 rebuilt with new rings about a month ago (due to bad machining on the block, very long story). Normally I do all the work myself with my dad, but my motor took a dump on me when I was at college 1500 miles away from home. Duffee Motorsports in Phoenix rebuilt my motor and when I picked the car up, I asked how long it would take the new rings to properly seal. The (very qualified) mechanics at the shop said that every piston ring manufacturer they had ever spoken to say that piston rings are basically sealed after the first minute or two of running the engine. I drove it like I stole it straight out of that shop, revving it up beyond 6k numerous times, and 2000 miles later it still runs beautifully.
 
Once you've put it through a few heat cycles (50 miles maybe) - checked for leaks, any unusual noises, done any retorques you're gonna do - headers, lower intake, etc., and changed out the oil/filter to get rid of rebuild/ass'y lube debris, it's ready to run as hard or as little as you like.
 
my motor got about 15minutes run time on the dyno at around 2500rpms. Oil changed and screened for debris, oil fitler cut open and inspected, heads retourqued, and valve lash reset. After that 11 power pulls all the way up 6800rpms.
mike.