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Drivetrain Broken clutch cable- what it looks like

  • Thread starter Thread starter JulianR
  • Start date Start date Aug 6, 2026
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JulianR

Active Member
Jun 13, 2016
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Aug 6, 2026
#1
  • Aug 6, 2026
  • #1
Was driving my 89 convertible GT a few weeks ago. Thorough out the day, I felt like getting into 1st gear was getting weirder until I parked it and, when running, couldn't put it in any gear. With the engine off, going into gear was fine, but as soon as I turned the car on, shifting was like hitting a wall. Got it towed home and when I got underneath it, I noticed the sheathing on the clutch cable broke. Thought I post it here in case anyone wanted to see what a bad clutch cable looks like. I also posted photos of my plastic quadrant that I replaced with the upgraded billet one. I didn't have problems with the quadrant, but once I removed it, I noticed the teeth were starting to get ground off.

 
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DadLife0724

Advanced Member
Mar 22, 2024
374
259
73
Cooperstown, PA
Aug 6, 2026
#2
  • Aug 6, 2026
  • #2
That cable bit it hard. Did you remove your seat to do the work?
 

JulianR

Active Member
Jun 13, 2016
182
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38
Aug 6, 2026
#3
  • Aug 6, 2026
  • #3
I did not remove the seat and I'm a bigger guy. But I did have my back over the rocker panel and my head in the pedal bay while doing this. The car was lifted on the driver side only. I would suggest to have a 90 degree pick to pull out the cotter pins from the quadrants. Otherwise, besides patience, it's not too terrible.
 

AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
Founding Member
Oct 28, 2001
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Aug 6, 2026
#4
  • Aug 6, 2026
  • #4
Both are a common failure. I will say it’s rare to see a plastic quadrant on one of these cars as they are literally 33 to 47 years old.
 
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DadLife0724

Advanced Member
Mar 22, 2024
374
259
73
Cooperstown, PA
Aug 6, 2026
#5
  • Aug 6, 2026
  • #5
JulianR said:
I did not remove the seat and I'm a bigger guy. But I did have my back over the rocker panel and my head in the pedal bay while doing this. The car was lifted on the driver side only. I would suggest to have a 90 degree pick to pull out the cotter pins from the quadrants. Otherwise, besides patience, it's not too terrible.
Click to expand...
My back hurts thinkin about you doin that. Props to you though.
 
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FastDriver

I was uncomfortably high & wearing a helmet
SN Certified Technician
Sep 5, 2001
6,148
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Vass, NC
Aug 6, 2026
#6
  • Aug 6, 2026
  • #6
I've done it both ways, but if it makes you think about it, the seat's only 4 bolts. Take it out.

Get a Steeda cable, now, and if you have longtubes or it's possible it will get to close to the exhaust, then wrap the exhaust and the cable with this 1800* heat shield.

https://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/heatshield-products?SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending
 
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Shakerhood

20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 28, 2004
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#7
  • Aug 7, 2026
  • #7
AeroCoupe said:
Both are a common failure. I will say it’s rare to see a plastic quadrant on one of these cars as they are literally 33 to 47 years old.
Click to expand...
Dont say that, my car doesnt need jinxed, lol.
 
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2000xp8

SN Certified Technician
Aug 8, 2003
8,058
1,643
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NJ
Aug 7, 2026
#8
  • Aug 7, 2026
  • #8
FastDriver said:
I've done it both ways, but if it makes you think about it, the seat's only 4 bolts. Take it out.
Click to expand...
I made it even easier, I bought grade 8 bolts and put them through from the bottom on the back side and put nuts on the top. Made the seat easier to align and no more digging in the carpet to find the bolt holes, no more nuts falling off from the subframe brackets and the wrench stays on the nuts far better than the bolts at the wierd angle to the floor. Now I don't hesitate to pull the seat out.

As for the quadrant as soon as I put one of my previous clutches that was very heavy in, it only lasted a few a few weeks until it started getting jammed up. Honestly I didn't want to have to adjust the new one, but at 500 mile or less a year, it pretty much never needs to be adjusted.
 
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JulianR

Active Member
Jun 13, 2016
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38
Aug 7, 2026
#9
  • Aug 7, 2026
  • #9
I'm actually surprised how much smoother the shifting got. I didn't even notice the cable was bad before.
 
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2000xp8

SN Certified Technician
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Aug 7, 2026
#10
  • Aug 7, 2026
  • #10
A bad cable happens slowly over a long period of time. Nearly impossible to notice unless you had something to compare it to.
 
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FastDriver

I was uncomfortably high & wearing a helmet
SN Certified Technician
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#11
  • Aug 7, 2026
  • #11
The only time I ever wanted to get away from fox bodies entirely, it was all because of cheap parts store cables stretching and breaking repeatedly. It made driving the car f****** miserable. Once I figured out that Maximum Motorsports, Steeda, and OEM cables were the ones to get, I've never had another issue.
 
Last edited: Aug 8, 2026
Reactions: Shakerhood, gkomo, DadLife0724 and 1 other person

gkomo

now i can hopefully expect to receive the shaft
Aug 2, 2024
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#12
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  • #12
Since MM and OEM are no longer options, is steeda the next best option?
 
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AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
Founding Member
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#13
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  • #13
I’ve run the Steeda adjustable cables for years now on both cars. The only issue I had was my own fault of running one on the T-Bird without header wrap as it’s way too close to the custom long tubes.
 

2000xp8

SN Certified Technician
Aug 8, 2003
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Aug 8, 2026
#14
  • Aug 8, 2026
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I run the steeda adjustable cable. I couldn't use a firewall adjuster as for it hit my valve cover if you had to adjust it.
The curve of the firewall also affects how the pedal feels. I had two that were drastically different.
 

AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
Founding Member
Oct 28, 2001
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Aug 8, 2026
#15
  • Aug 8, 2026
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Is your motor set back? Only asking as I have firewall adjusters on both cars one with a 8.2 deck motor and the other with a 9.5 deck motor. Neither is set back (both have the ability to be set back) and both have SN95 / 93 style boosters.
 

2000xp8

SN Certified Technician
Aug 8, 2003
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Aug 9, 2026
#16
  • Aug 9, 2026
  • #16
Remember i have a 4v with dohc. The cable travels directly over the top of the valve cover. I had a firewall adjuster on there, which fit, just couldn't be adjusted.
 

FastDriver

I was uncomfortably high & wearing a helmet
SN Certified Technician
Sep 5, 2001
6,148
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Vass, NC
Aug 9, 2026
#17
  • Aug 9, 2026
  • #17
gkomo said:
Since MM and OEM are no longer options, is steeda the next best option?
Click to expand...
I don't know the other cables out there, but I can vouch that the Steeda is the only one left I trust, and I have had problems with many other ones, particularly the adjustable parts store ones.
 

AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
Founding Member
Oct 28, 2001
6,150
4,239
183
Claremore, OK
Aug 9, 2026
#18
  • Aug 9, 2026
  • #18
Yup, completely forgot and with that motor I am surprised you even got a firewall adjuster in there let alone trying to adjust it.

Before I had a firewall adjuster on my Coupe I ended up cutting some of the threaded part of the Steeda cable off so it would clear the clutch fork cover. Not necessary with the firewall adjuster installed.
 

rednotch

I'd like to remain having one chocolate starfish
Founding Member
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#19
  • Aug 9, 2026
  • #19
gkomo said:
Since MM and OEM are no longer options, is steeda the next best option?
Click to expand...
This is why I all ways have email Notification set up for fleabay.. Got an NOS oem foxbody one for $30 not long ago. Been stashing them for when i run out of used sn and new edge cables or the old frpp clutch fork and cable linkage kits I have collected over the years. The cable from those kits where the best none oem fox length ones I've used, but never did try steeda's. I broke so many of the adjustable end style cables years ago that I gave up on those.
 

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Shakerhood

20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 28, 2004
3,360
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Aug 9, 2026
#20
  • Aug 9, 2026
  • #20
rednotch said:
This is why I all ways have email Notification set up for fleabay.. Got an NOS oem foxbody one for $30 not long ago. Been stashing them for when i run out of used sn and new edge cables or the old frpp clutch fork and cable linkage kits I have collected over the years. The cable from those kits where the best none oem fox length ones I've used, but never did try steeda's. I broke so many of the adjustable end style cables years ago that I gave up on those.
Click to expand...
Wow, thats awesome.
 
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