budget build on a 331/346 stroker

Are you looking to buy a complete longblock? Or build up your 289/302?

I have a decent budget 331: Eagle kit with Forged crank, I beams and SRPs. With vic Jrs and TFS2 cam im making ~350rwhp 370rwtq in street trim. Scat can be another route as well

www.scatcrankshafts.com for kits. Look at the I-beam rods, 9000 series crank, KB-Silvolite pistons. Bearings included. The next thing to decide is what heads to use. That reflects directly on your budget. If you can find a way to spend $1000 on heads, I would buy TFS Twisted Wedge heads and a hydraulic flat tappet cam with about .500" of net lift. TW heads flow real well at that lift - better than anything else in the price range. If you were able to spend even more, then your options would widen. If you must spend less, then you may have to search for used heads, or use stockers until you can afford better.

Also,
www.dssracing.com
www.centralcoastmustang.net
www.coasthigh.com
www.speedomotive.com
http://www.pawengineparts.com/

are good places to look for shortblocks. Speed-o-motive is a real good source for low-cost short or long blocks. PAW is a good source for engine kits. Get one of their catalogs and check out the long-block kits that you assemble yourself.

Go here: http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/t...104-5856173-7967963?v=glance&s=books&n=507846

and buy this book. It is the only one you need if you decide to build your own engine. Tools will be an added expense, however. If you do not have access to them, then buy a short block. Most of the specialized tools are needed to assemble the shortblock. You can probably borrow/buy the others. Read the book anyway in order to understand the engine build process.

Sorry, 65fb302v8. I thought that this topic would generate more responses. Maybe it's just been beat to death. Try doing some searches on the topic, too.

Here is an interesting writeup, he built a potent stroker.

http://www.fordmuscle.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?topic=18767&forum=12&2

what engine do you have now? I am sure it could be modified to get you to your goal without having to disassemble it to make it a stroker. Thats going to cost big bucks. Not only do you have to pay for the stroker kit, but you have to pay to have it assembled, balanced, bored, possibly honed, etc. machine work could tack on up to $500! More than likely it will be around $300 though.

If you are going the cheap route...you can get a 331/347 stroker kit for around $500 or so.

There are two pistons, that I know of, that can be used on a 331 and the wrist pin does not intersect the oil land. Both are made for 5.4" rods, so a better rod ratio is achieved over using a 5.315" rod, or shorter (not that rod ratio is critical). One is Mahle (1.165" compression height) and the other is Probe (1.175" C-H). You would use the one that best suited the deck height you have, or deck the block to use the Mahles, which is what I did. These are not budget pistons, but they are an excellent value. The weight of the pistons ranged from 418.5-420.2 grams. The wrist pins were within .2g of each other. Not bad. Fit and finish were very good. So far, so good, but the engine has not been fully assembled yet.