Build ideas?

MikeUrban

Member
May 30, 2010
187
1
19
Chantilly, VA
Hey everyone,
I have a 1993 5.0 and I got it about 6 months ago. I think it's time to get a build going. I've been researching threads about people making 400-500hp. Some turbo/supercharge their 302s, and some build completely new motors. I have about 3k to put into it. I was looking at ford racing crate motors, and I saw a lot of people saying that they are terrible. I also looked at fordstrokers short and long blocks, and they look really good. I'm sure there are so many more routes to take in my build, but what would you guys suggest doing? Sorry for my wall o' words, and thanks in advance. :D
 
Knowing you're looking at putting 3 grand in it, I'd simply do a rebuild on your current motor utilizing some forged pistions, perhaps aftermarket heads and cam. I think you'll blow your budget right off the bat with an aftermarket short block. Upgrade to lower gears while you're at it. I think $3k would get all that done.:nice:

All of this assumes you even need a rebuild. If you have fairly low mileage and no issues with the motor, then maybe forget the rebuild and just go for the heads/cam/gears combo!
 
For 3g's i would do GT40P heads, cam, full exhust,cobra intake, TB (only accufab), MAF, CAI, tune,normsl bolt ons, gears, control arms, SFC.With all this you should see 300/320ish at the wheels.If you do gears i would choose 4.10's for a N/A set up.If you plan to boost then 3.55's.Also if you dont have emissions these engine mods would be ideal,if you have emisions then you might need to run cats for now to pass?Or keep your current set up and look for a S/C or turbo.I would do a turbo but your gonna way over exceed your 3g limit if you have to buy it new.If you can fab it all yourself then for about 2500 ish will accomplish it.Aturbo on your stock motor will get ya about 500ish.peace






john:p
 
First off Ford racing crate engines are pretty good. They aren't for max power, but they are reliable, make good power and pack a good warranty.

For 3 grand, consider the tfs track heat kit, then spend the rest on the supporting parts.

With that low of a budget don't get involved in boost for a stock engine,it will just give you headaches.
 
For 3 grand you should be able to do a complete and proper top end kit.
After that, i'd consider piecing together some suspension and drivetrain parts.
 
I have eibach pro kit springs, but I was thinking about getting the adjustable rear control arms. Does anyone know how much power will the stock tranny hold?

You really don't need adjustable rear control arms.

How long the stock trans last depends on the clutch and how you drive it.
People can throw hp numbers out there all they want, but the reality is that they last quite a while sometimes for guys with 500hp and sometimes they last two weeks for guys with 300hp.
Drive it smart and use a street clutch and you should be fine.
 
I think what a lot of people overlook when talking about going H/C/I is the small stuff it takes to make it work. What I mean is stuff like throttle body, fuel injectors, fuel pump, upgraded MAF, exhaust, dyno tune and/or tuning device, etc. Also, if you piece together an H/C/I on your own, you're looking at buying things like rockers, timing chain, pushrods, etc.

$3k will get you a nice set of heads, a custom cam, and an intake, but be prepared to spend much more on the stuff required to make it all work.
 
A HCI setup can be done for 3 grand.
Used injectors, TB, and a new fuel pump are all cheap.
The meter $300
The TFS kit, less the valve covers should leave enough money for pretty much everything.

Dyno tuning or programming equimpment is absolutely not necessary
 
A HCI setup can be done for 3 grand.
Used injectors, TB, and a new fuel pump are all cheap.
The meter $300
The TFS kit, less the valve covers should leave enough money for pretty much everything.

Dyno tuning or programming equimpment is absolutely not necessary

Once we start talking about using "used" parts, then any sort of a real budget plan falls apart. That's the same argument the LS swap guys like to use. "Used" seems to be a magic word, everybody seems to think you can find "used" stuff in good condition for insanely cheap, but the best luck I've ever had with used parts was a battery tray for my Fox... That's about it. I make my assumptions based on new parts, if you want to argue that he can do it cheaper on used stuff, I guess I can't dispute that.

Also, I don't know if I've ever heard of a H/C/I swap (265 rwhp iron-headed stuff aside) that didn't require some amount of tuning to get the A/F into a optimal range, even if it's just a wideband and a AFPR. IMHO, big engine changes like that while ignoring what the ECM is doing is missing the point. Yea, you can do it, but you're probably leaving power on the table. But maybe that's just me.
 
Once we start talking about using "used" parts, then any sort of a real budget plan falls apart. That's the same argument the LS swap guys like to use. "Used" seems to be a magic word, everybody seems to think you can find "used" stuff in good condition for insanely cheap, but the best luck I've ever had with used parts was a battery tray for my Fox... That's about it. I make my assumptions based on new parts, if you want to argue that he can do it cheaper on used stuff, I guess I can't dispute that.

Also, I don't know if I've ever heard of a H/C/I swap (265 rwhp iron-headed stuff aside) that didn't require some amount of tuning to get the A/F into a optimal range, even if it's just a wideband and a AFPR. IMHO, big engine changes like that while ignoring what the ECM is doing is missing the point. Yea, you can do it, but you're probably leaving power on the table. But maybe that's just me.

Remember, dyno tuning hasn't been around on a large scale like it is now for all that long.
Before 1996 very few shops had a dyno. It's a common mistake to think that tuning effects the fox computer like it does obdII computers, they are nothing alike.
It's not all that hard to set fuel pressure and timing.
It's extremely hard to beat the stock computer.
I've seen it attempted time and time again with chips and tunes, only to just pull the chip and have the car run better without it.
The stock computer can handle rwhp in the 600's, the furthest i've seen it pushed was about 650rwhp, and the car was out of blower at that point.
It's all in the meter and proper injector sizing.

As far as used parts, i only suggested he get the easy parts that really don't wear out.
Whens the last time you heard of bad 24lb injectors or TB and spacer?
Reality is, good shopping and you can do the HCI setup for under 2 grand with used stuff with no difficulties, i bet it could even be done for $1500.
 
Remember, dyno tuning hasn't been around on a large scale like it is now for all that long.
Before 1996 very few shops had a dyno. It's a common mistake to think that tuning effects the fox computer like it does obdII computers, they are nothing alike.
It's not all that hard to set fuel pressure and timing.
It's extremely hard to beat the stock computer.
I've seen it attempted time and time again with chips and tunes, only to just pull the chip and have the car run better without it.
The stock computer can handle rwhp in the 600's, the furthest i've seen it pushed was about 650rwhp, and the car was out of blower at that point.
It's all in the meter and proper injector sizing.
I know 2 people running over 750rwhp using the stock computer.