Building a simple short block.

It is usually $10.00 a hole to bore a block. Have it bored .030 or whatever cleans it up. Check all the tolerances in the main caps, and flatness on the deck. Also have the big ends of the rods resized and the crank cut. It wouldn't hurt to up the compression a bit either. KEEP EVERYTHING AS CLEAN WHEN REBUILDING!

Well a race shop up the road from me was gonna charge me $650 to race prep a 302 same cost for 351... So I would guess anywhere from $500-$800 depending on the shop.. If you plan getting a whole lot of power from this engine combo say like 700+ i would start looking for a better block, especially if you plan on putting a power adder of some kind on.. Plus right now you may think that you won't want to make a lot of power anyway, but once you get used to it your gonna be like i wanna go faster And go with the 1 peice rear main seal..
Just for your info, if you were to get the motorsport race 351 block (part# m-6010-w351) from summit it costs $1,800 then you need to do everything to that motor(race prep, bore) so you'll be like 1,000-2,000 more since its a brand new block.. If you were to get the new Dart ford block 351 (i saw it for 1,800 while searching for in like google.com for engines) all you need to do is have it bored over plus its a bad ass block 4 bolt main.. No drilling or nothing like the ford block.. You should take a look at it and see what i mean how strong it looks.. Not sure if anyone is using a Dart block yet but i'm sure if they are they only good things to say about it..

good luck with the project

Clean and replace cam brgs... 55.00, bore and Hone with deckplate 155.00, polish crankshaft...35.00/ turn crankshaft 85.00. press rods and resize.. 120.00( needed after the ARPS are installed) Balance ..175.00, index or machine deck...65.00, short block with , rod clearance, main and rod bearing clearance, ring gapped, proper rear main seal.. 400.00 !! and of course these are prices here... not there, but a good idea !! cool??

Just me...................

Thumper

RydeOn said:

Just a good idea is all I need, cool!

Im not looking to race prep the block. My truck is just going to be used for towing and offroading. Shift point is under 4500. Also what compression do I want to run if Im going to run 87 octane? 9.2:1 is ok?

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ohhh I thought maybe you had a lightning and were going to build that... I got carried away lol yea 9.2:1 should be ok as long as your not going to have a lot of timing, keep it at base timing

This might sound self-serving but,........ if your not gonna spin over 4,500 rpm, don't go the Performer route. The runners are larger than need be and you'll make more torque (power) with smaller runners. If you wanted power up to 6,000 rpm, I'd suggest the Performer.