Bumpsteer Ends

Hard hard should these be to rotate with a bolt through by hand? Trying to isolate a "shuddering" or "binding" during steering at idle under load. I have to really muscle it to move by hand.

BTW - 1990 GT Vert 5.0 T5. Just replaced entire front suspension (parts/bushings) and inner/outer rods. Broke rack loose to replace bushings but stopped and put her back together. During left steering the wheel "shudders" violantly but I can't "feel" anything in the rack from underneath. Tried bleeding PS several times and different methods. Removed outer rod at spindle and "physically" moved wheel under load and could not replicate. I tried "resisting" the rack motion but it felt smooth. Put it back together and "shudders" back. Only thing left is these ends or possibly the rack...

Thanks.

FoMoCo17 said:

That rod end should be tight but moveable with a bolt inside it. It just should not be sloppy or loose. Before I bought mine, Steeda told me that they guarantee them for the life of the car (for original owner) and they never get loose. I do not believe this is where your problem is. Jack up the front end and start the car ... make sure reservior is full and rotate wheel all of the way left and all the way to the right several times to correctly bleed it. It is possible that the valving in the rack is not holding properly. Also, use Dexron III fluid as opposed to general power steering pump fluid. I have found that general power steering pump fluid is noisier (I think less viscosity) so I stick with the Dexron III and it runs quieter. Possibly it needs to be flushed a few more times. It is hard to get all of it out since I flush mine at least once a season. Good Luck!

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Thanks for the input. We found that the front seal on the PS pump has small leak so I ordered a reconditioned to replace. I will most likely replace the line's while I'm at it. Flush it. Bleed it (did the above and got some bubbles but not much). I'm hoping it's just a BUNCH of air or something like that. If this doesn't solve it I'll just order a new rack. Nice to have a "sunday" driver that you can take your time with. I will report back to this thread on outcome.

MFE92 said:

How tall is the bumpsteer spacer stack?

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If I understand you correctly you are asking for the distance between the spindle bottom and the top of the rod end. Not sure but will measure. Put together according to Maximum Motorsports "starting point" instructions. Used tapered bolt with .48" top spacer, rod end, ,24", .12", .06", .06", .03" and .015" spacers. Rod runs algined to the arm not the ground. Guessing all together I have about 1" between top of rod end and bottome of spindle.

FoMoCo17 said:

With regard to power steering pump line. I hade to remove one of mine and found that they have a Teflon gasket on them that makes them moveable while tightened .... ever notice that. Anyway, I needed to replace these teflon gaskets to re-install the line but No one had them. I was told by someone at an auto parts place that Ford put them on new lines. Well, I wasn't springing for a new line when all I needed was the Teflon O-ring. Then, by chance, I was referred to NAPA and I called them .... sure enough, they stocked just these O-rings just for the Ford vehicles that had these swivel lines. Just wanted to mention it in case you found yourself in this situation and wanted to re-use your line but found that the teflon seal O-ring would NOT seal. Good Luck!

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Thanks. Good info as I did not realize they moved. I would probably flatten the fitting trying to tighten.

MFE92 said:

OK, that's not too much, so I doubt the problem is flex in the spacer stack or the spindle itself. I chased a problem similar to this and I never did fully nail it down, but I believe it was a combination of pump, fluid, and air.

Try this: Rev the engine up just a hair, then turn the wheel lock-to-lock several times until the pump starts to whine. In other words, get it good and hot. Now see if it still chatters. For me, that would cure it temporarily.

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Think you may be on to something. I decided to "switch" sides with the bump steers just for grins. While there, I added some shorter end links to balance out the stabalizer bar (should have no connection but thought to mention). Put her under load and problem still exists but not as bad. Had a friend follow me to YMCA parking lot for some figure 8 action. Figured if she broke and I survived we would finally know the culprit.

After about 15 minutes of fun (not really), jacked her up in the lot, pulled the cap and with engine running went left to right. Nothing. Brought idle up to about 1500-2000 rpm and went lock to lock. "Hey, man. Are bubbles good?" my buddy asked. Good. Very good. Must have sat there 20 minutes back and forth until the bubbles slowed down and the "shuddering" started to diminish. I still must have some air as she's not completely cured, but need to replace the PS pump since the front seal is leaking so I will bleed yet again. Thinking since she is easier to turn with higher RPM's pump may be weak as well.

Note: Not every method of PS bleeding will work on every car or situation the same. I performed bleeding while just cranking engine with coil wire off. I performed with engine on and idling. In either case, I doubt I ever hit operating temperature. This along with higher RPM's seemed to do the trick. Vacuum was never attempted.

Thanks a bunch.