busted

i have a 67 fairlane convertible with a 390fe motor ... totally stock. it's pretty heavy .... about 3700 lbs.

with boss heads, a 4bbl carb, the right cam, a free flowing intake and exhaust, that thing would spin the tires really easily. i also bet it would be a good bit faster than mine is. i'm thiniking it could put down 300 horses at the rear wheels on a dyno.

sorry, I am having a hard time following what you are asking.

I believe you want to know the power gain from putting on a high rise intake, 4bbl carb, and headers?

Or do you want to know if buying these parts are a good start on your project?

All that you mentioned are pretty basic steps, exhaust has always been about the best bang for the buck. Towards making more HP.

The boss heads will need pushrods, intake manifold, pistons, gaskets, valve covers.
Unless you want a boss engine, sell the heads on ebay, use the money for windsor heads.

Not to mention the hardened valve seats, plus any other work required to make the heads work with modern gas.

Last time I priced a full rebuild for a set of mid 60's heads. It was above $600. It was to the point of tipping my decision towards buying new aluminum heads. At the time you could pick them up for around $800 assembled. Not sure what they are priced now.

Hungrymonkey what city are you in? Your avitar makes me think your my kind of guy.

Hungrymonkey what city are you in? Your avitar makes me think your my kind of guy"



me too !!!!!! ....................... LOL

68 fairlain said:

im thinking of going with stock all 1968 parts 289 block stock heads but also i have boss heads that need all redone throw on some headers 4bb carb and i got a high rise intake but with stock heads i want the badest cam i can get but i dont know what

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Like hungrymonkey said a quality redo of your heads will cost money. You will need hardened valve seats, at least the exhaust valves in stainless, valve and seat grinding, seals, more than likely valve guides. It would be really nice to install screw in studs to make it easier to set up. Local shops will ding you the 600bucks as already stated. If you get told you can get some done 200 run away. The parts will cost that much. There are some outfits that sell heads on ebay in the 400- 500 range. They use newer heads that came with most of the things that need to be added to older heads. You can get new performance heads starting at 850-900 range.
The boss heads are going to cost even more to rebuild. the valves are more money. The valves are canted at compound angles and not one like windsor heads. Takes a bunch of set up time to do a valve job. To use those heads you need a bunch of new parts. Part prices aproximate only.
1. pistons, for the canted valves $500. special order.
2. pushrods, special order, $120
3. boss 302 intake, $400, ebay
4. boss 302 gaskets $100
5. Cleveland valve covers $50

The boss is cool but going to cost bucks. the above is just some of the parts you will need. Don't know if you have the cleveland rocker arms for an adjustable drive train etc. like I said already, sell the boss heads on ebay as is. If they are real boss heads you could be looking at $1000 for good complete original heads. That would go a long way to your stock type build.
As for a cam, I would be looking like the 289 shelby range of cam on stock type heads. Hyd. flat tappet to make life easy on you. Near but not over .500 lift as stock cast pistons, small port heads won't use more than that. I would go with a 570-600 cfm range on the carb. Lots of used high rise dual plane intakes on ebay for around $100. That would get a fun as hell economic car that won't tear up your rear end.

Buckhunter125@h said:

Hungrymonkey what city are you in? Your avitar makes me think your my kind of guy"



me too !!!!!! ....................... LOL

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He must be scared.

RUSTYNUT said:

Hungrymonkey what city are you in? Your avitar makes me think your my kind of guy.

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I am down south by Eugene. With all the other fruits and nuts.

hungrymonkey said:

I am down south by Eugene. With all the other fruits and nuts.

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All the left wing, tree hugging, guys down there would hang you for that avitar. Got to be animal cruelty.LOL

68 fairlain said:

iguess i will go with 1968 stock heads there already on the 289 they say 302 it has 70,000 miles igot intake,headers,carb,three speed on the floor need cam kit,3.73 or4.11in rear end it busted the pinion i just want somthing to drive to work i only work 6 blocks away but i want the most out of that stock block oh an i live in washington indiana

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If the heads are working I would just leave them alone. If you want more performance later, save up for a crate engine or the parts to build up your own engine. A 350hp plus engne will need the bottom end beefed up if you want it to last. I would keep the cam under .500 lift on a stock engine. Stock heads don't move enough air to use much bigger. You can run into valve- piston clearance issues, and you may get away with using the stock springs to save you some bucks. I think with your set up unless you are planning to race alot, I would stay closer to the 3.5 to 3.73 range. The engine as you're running it is about 5500 rpm deal. It will be much nicer with that three speed and not have you running 4000 rpm on the highway. A 200 rwhp mustang is a lot of fun to drive, and doesn't break so many parts. 500 hp in the snow is no fun at all. Read as much as you can. Big hp cars are fun, but there can be drawbacks, and you will always need to upgrade the whole car to work together.
Oh yea, you might want to get a new timing chain, belts, hoses, and think about a water pump when you swap cams. Your'e going to have to take them off, might as well change them out while your at it.