Buying a n20 bottle and piecing together the rest. What all is needed?

[SuperDust22]

I am going to get a bottle for cheap and I am just thinking about piecing together the rest. I am trying to see if this will save me any money. If someone could give me a list or a price list that would be great. Also the best place to buy the parts. Thanks guys.

Dustin

 

[Swarzkopf]

Yargh....probably not the best way to go about adding a nitrous kit.

 

[95Vert]

I don't know how much the bottle is going for by itself, but it's going to be pretty difficult to find everything else. Try getting everything together used off of here or corral. Now that I think about it, I have seen some kits without the bottles in the classifides but it's very rare. Good luck

 

[SQUEEZE&STROKE]

Nitrous trunk line-$30-$50
Fuel Solenoid-$70-$100
N2O Solenoid-$70-$120
-3 fuel/n20 lines (from solenoids to nozzle-$30 for both
fittings -3 an to pipe x 2-$10
-4 to pipe-$8
Scrader valve fitting-$8
small piece of pipe from scrader fitting to fuel solenoid $5
Nozzle-$30-$50
Jetts-$15 for both


Just estimate of new prices. Alot depends on sizes of solenoids (pro shot, power shot, etc...)

This is for a wet system. for a dry system you'll need that blue cylinder thing that gets pressure from the n20 and increases fuel pressure. This part is darn near impossible to find! Thats why I went with thewet system! Good luck, or buy a kit.

 

[Swarzkopf]

...and do you really want to run a wet system, flowing fuel through and intake manifold never designed for fuel flow, without an RPM activated window switch? Spray below 3000 RPM using a wet kit and you've got a good chance of a kaboom.

Furthermore, you'll end up paying $350-$400 to make this work anyway. Why not spend another $100 for a quality NOS, Zex, Edelbrock, NX, or NW kit that'll save you all of this hassle?

 

[blksn955.o]

I knew a guy local who was selling his kit without the bottle for 125$ noids, jets, nozzle, and lines (compucar wet kit 50-175 shot). I bought a bottle off e-bay (compucar bottle at that) for 75$. I have a complete compucar wet kit for $200.

I have since moved to a n.o.s. fogger nozzle and 150 jet, but keeping the compucar nozzle with 175 jets also (cap the nozzle and swap the lines) in the intake pipe.

Look for someone selling the kit used. Compucar has large-er noids than the base n.o.s. kit and compucar will rebuild the noids forever under their warranty it just costs shipping. If you can find a kit without a bottle, say someone is stepping up to a fogger plate and wants to run 2 bottles they will be more willing to make a deal to get some cash out of it.

 

[WhiteDevil]

I think i recently saw some kits minus the bottle on ebay i think they were NX kits

 

[SuperDust22]

I am getting the bottle for $80. I don't plan on really putting the kit on for awhile. I am hopefully building the motor up before then. I think I might still buy a kit. It wouldn't hurt to have another bottle plus if there is a chance I could piece it together and save some money that woudl be great.

Also what do you guys think about the Wet vs Dry in our cars,


Dustin

 

[wytstang]

Me personally prefer 150-lower to be a dry kit. Anything higher then I would consider a wet kit, even better the direct injection kits $$ but would feel better not having gas in the intake track.

 

[Swarzkopf]

90% of the time, "dry" is better. The term is misleading these days- dry kits DO provide extra fuel to the engine while the nitrous is flowing. Dry kits bump the fuel pressure via the fuel pressure regulator, providing the extra fuel pressure needed.

This seems to be much safer than a wet kit, which injects fuel with the nitrous into the intake tract, and flows the extra fuel through the intake manifold- which was never intended for fuel flow. If you've ever had your intake manifold off, you'll see why this is a bad idea- it's obvious that there are plenty of spots for fuel to puddle....and in the case of a manifold backfire, you stand a good chance of this puddled fuel igniting and causing a fire or explosion. For this reason, wet kits are only to be used above 3000 RPMs, because above 3000 the engine is generating enough vacuum to suck all the fuel through the manifold, not allowing it to puddle.

A few companies make "plate" kits, where you install a spray plate between the uppper and lower intake, and this plate sprays a nitrous/fuel mix into each intake port. I'd trust this much more than a standard wet kit.

From my own experience, I've run my Zex dry kit since early spring and haven't had one problem.