Clearly, you've no idea what you're talking about. I would love to see your 2 valve peak a 2.6 or even a 2.3L twin screw.
Clearly, you've no idea what you're talking about. I would love to see your 2 valve peak a 2.6 or even a 2.3L twin screw.Do a vortech, PD blowers are very limited and run out of breath down low, nothing but stump pullers! 3.73, vortech, good cams, longtubes, maybe an intake one day if you do heads and it will run hard!
Yea, I've ridden in extreme versions of both blowers and the centri's are still where the fun is at for me.
I drove my car 18 miles with mismatched MAF and injectors to my tuner, just don't get in boost, it only didnt want to idle at stop lights..but it got there and put down 380/378 non intercooled on a Mustang dyno in 80 degree and 100% humidity weather, in a 132k mile stock motor...
If you wait another 6 months or so, I might know where you can find an old FRPP/SVO roots blower..
If you wait another 6 months or so, I might know where you can find an old FRPP/SVO roots blower.And trust me, one of those mated up with some decent cams (yours would be perfectly fine) runs pretty dang good. Got a book full of time slips to prove it.
Honestly if the price is right this may be the best option.
An SVT Focus pump is all you need. They'll easily support 450 rwhp.
39 pound Cobra injectors are good.
You will need a larger MAF sensor. Most people run a 90 mm Lightning with no issues at all.
About the injectors and MAF issue. You could drive it there with it all install, but I'm not sure I'd want to do that. When I first cranked up my car on the larger injectors and MAF (untuned), that think looked like an old JD 4440 with all the black smoke it was rolling. I'd either get the tuner to write a base tune and email it to you, or just wait until you got there and swap them out. I could easily change the injectors and MAF on my car in 30 minutes or so.
On a typical dyno, I'd expect 350 or so rwhp out of your car with 8 pounds of boost. May not sound like much, but it's a plenty to have a lot of fun with.
yes a true svtf pump works with both style fuel systems. Check into prices as I know the Walbro unit can be had for under 100 if you shop right.... Not sure about the svtf pumps at that pricePM me a price
Agreed... FWIW I have yet to run my car at a track, partly d/t where I live and partly d/t the fact that I just like cruising. More power than I have may be stupid anyways.
Will the SVT Focus pump work with the 98 fuel system?
Didn't even think of this... with NPI heads I probably wouldn't make enough power for bigger injectors anyways.
thanks that is helpful
Excellent idea... I could change mine out in the lot with a simple set of hand tools.
Plenty of power for the type of driving I do. Plus the cost of the PD SVO should be much lower than the cost of other more popular PD options.
Thanks Will, good stuff
Nate, do not even think twice about tapping the oil pan. It is simple to do. I've had 3 blowers on my last vette. A Vortech V3 SI, a Vortech V7 YSI, and a Novi 1500. Vortech owns Paxton, same blowers in similar sizes. For instance, an SI equals a 1200, a T-trim equals a 1500, a JT trim equals a 2200. And then it ends there. The YSI is smaller than the Novi 2500.
My car made around 700rwhp on the stock motor at 10psi with the SI trim. 850rwhp with the Novi 1500 at 12-13psi on my 402. Didn't ever get the YSI dialed in(belt issues), or install my Novi 2200, but I'm sure both would have made in the 900-1000rwhp area, so that just shows you all these blowers are very capable.
You will build up the IAT's a little more with a self contained unit, but not a big deal. Change the oil on the first break in at 2000-3000 miles, then every 5000 miles after that if you go with a self contained unit.
The single best thing you can do for any centri kit is buy a meth kit. They are very simple to use, and you can run 1000 miles without using a drop of it if need be. Your tuner can program it to come on at a certain boost or RPM level when you go WOT. This will dramatically decrease your IAT's, add power and safety. Your tuner can tune in to it to add power with the increased octane by bumping the timing up, or tune it just for safety so if it does fail, it's like a normal blower tune. There are a lot of ways to set up meth, and your tuner, if experienced, will know best. I honestly will never, ever install a blower on any car I own without meth.
As far as the cam selection, I'm not sure. I've looked at the 2v cam specs, and have run them in one of my 2v's before. Some will bleed off boost a little more, but most NA cams work great for centri cars since the power curve is similar to an NA car, just higher, while turbo and PD cars hit much harder down low.
off topic, but still kind of on, what kind of fuel pressure would you guys expect to see?
I feel like 1 of my pumps is ready to take a crap on me; it seems louder than normal. I'm seeing like 34 @ idle but it seems to be dipping when I start to get in boost, instead of rising. I've been afraid to stay in boost and backing off because I don't know what kind of pressure I should be seeing.
I need to call the tuner and see what he says.
It's not about fuel pressure, it's about fuel VOLUME. Your pressures should be about the same as they would for an N/A application, if your injectors are appropriately sized.
I don't know...I'm so sensitive to sounds with the car, every time I hear/don't hear something I do a double take.
Wait, what!? Will that blower be replace by a new boss 302?
off topic, but still kind of on, what kind of fuel pressure would you guys expect to see?
I feel like 1 of my pumps is ready to take a crap on me; it seems louder than normal. I'm seeing like 34 @ idle but it seems to be dipping when I start to get in boost, instead of rising. I've been afraid to stay in boost and backing off because I don't know what kind of pressure I should be seeing.
I need to call the tuner and see what he says.
Where are you seeing that FP at? Are you seeing that pressure at the rail with a gauge? My tuner always kept my Fuel Pressure at 60psi at idle and inside gauge read the same as the gauge on the rail, so I'm not sure on a 2/4v car. I've always stuck with 60psi, whether at 570rwhp, or 850-900rwhp.
Nate, 5w20 is fine for an oil fed blower. Those cam specs are so out of my realm of knowledge that I can't even begin to guess about them. I spec my own cams now on pushrod cars primarily for driveability. My last cam was a 232/244-118+2LSA with .590/.612, and idled like a stock car basically with my cubes. The most critical thing to making safe power is the tune, and fuel. If you keep good fuel(meth+premium in it) and have a very good tune, you can beat on the car hard. A 400rwhp 2v with a great tune is going to last longer than a 350rwhp 2v with an average tune. It makes a huge difference, so don't skimp there.
I trust him... if I were to post up dyno sheets with AFR would any of you know if its a good tune?
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