Buying an '06 GT

Jholewin · Jun 11, 2008

I test drove an '06 GT at a local dealer yesterday and I am seriously considering putting an offer on it. However, I'd like to know what specifically I should be looking out for regarding technical issues with these cars. My main concern is that the car has 40k miles after only 2 years. That most likely indicates a lot of highway miles, but that's still quite a few miles. Are there any known issues with the 3v 4.6L motors around this mileage I should be looking for? Or do these motors easily go 100k+ miles without serious problems?

There are lower mileage GTs at other dealers, but the price is right on this one. For GTs with 20k miles, other dealers are asking low $20k's, while this GT is marked at $17.5 after the current rebate. Would the mileage be enough of a concern that the extra $5k is justified? The car is otherwise in immaculate condition.

One thing I did notice during the test drive was what sounded like a clunk from the rear-end occasionally just after I came out of a turn. Is this just normal differential operation in the rear-end, or could it be a sign of trouble? I would talk with a mechanic about it before finalizing any purchase, but I'm curious what your opinions are.

Thanks!

Eric3D · Jun 11, 2008

I purchased a 2006 Tungsten 5speed GT in perfect shape with 7K miles on it just a few weeks ago here in ATL. Purchase price was $19K plus tax if that helps out at all. It has nice chrome 18" factory wheels on it also.

PSYKOSTEVO · Jun 11, 2008

I notice that the rear end is clunky in turns when the rear end is still cold. It is sort of loud, but it goes away when the car gets hotter. Another thing you may or may not notice are the front struts making popping noises when going over speed bumps and stuff. That is also normal, though there was a bulliten to fix it, it is not harmful just annoying.

Check the Alternator, those are known for going bad, and when they go bad the voltage screws up the cams VCT. Do yourself a favor and buy an extended warranty with the car.

When washing the car, water will also leak onto the passenger side floor on a lot of these cars. That means they are missing a weld. A lot of cars have this problem.

Is the car still stock?

And explain this "rebate" on a used car.

Jholewin · Jun 11, 2008

PSYKOSTEVO said:
I notice that the rear end is clunky in turns when the rear end is still cold. It is sort of loud, but it goes away when the car gets hotter. Another thing you may or may not notice are the front struts making popping noises when going over speed bumps and stuff. That is also normal, though there was a bulliten to fix it, it is not harmful just annoying.

It definitely sounded like it was coming from the rear of the car.

PSYKOSTEVO said:
Check the Alternator, those are known for going bad, and when they go bad the voltage screws up the cams VCT. Do yourself a favor and buy an extended warranty with the car.

Interesting, thanks for the heads up!

PSYKOSTEVO said:
Is the car still stock?

As far as I know, yes. I plan on doing a much more thorough inspection, though, if I decide to pursue this.

PSYKOSTEVO said:
And explain this "rebate" on a used car.

The dealer is having some kind of sales event, and select used cars are either $500 or $1,000 off asking price. For all I know they just added $1,000 to the asking price then "took $1,000 off." The KBB value of the car is $20k, so asking $17.5 before tax doesn't seem too bad.

Do you think 40k miles is a big issue? I'm just not sure it's worthwhile to spend an extra $5k to drop 20k miles on a different car. Unfortunately, there are no service records besides what the dealer did after trade-in, but the car drove fine.

klaw · Jun 11, 2008

The car will likely have the original two-piece spark plugs. Before you buy the car insist that the dealer change the plugs over to Champion or Brisk 1-piece plugs with anti-seize on the ground shield. If they have problems replacing the plugs, the fix will be on their dime not yours. Once the anti-seize is on, you should be good to go - especially with one-piece plugs.

PSYKOSTEVO · Jun 11, 2008

Yeah, those stock plugs are something to worry about too. Forgot about those.

NastyStang113 · Jun 11, 2008

I didn't think this website was like this. The plug "problem" is not that bad as people on the internet make it seem like. I've personally done them before and it's not a big deal. Just follow the TSB procedure and you'll be fine.

klaw · Jun 11, 2008

ThumperMX113 said:
I didn't think this website was like this. The plug "problem" is not that bad as people on the internet make it seem like. I've personally done them before and it's not a big deal. Just follow the TSB procedure and you'll be fine.

I changed mine myself too and it was no problem - my point is that if you're buying a used car and you have one opportunity to get the dealership to take the risk on the plug change, why wouldn't you do it? There wouldn't be a TSB if there wasn't a "problem". In terms of this "website not being like this" what are we supposed to do? Stick our heads up our butts and pretend that everything's perfect? The guy asked for (honest?) opinions not sugar coating.

281Ponies · Jun 11, 2008

The plugs are a good point especially looking at a car with 40k on it… I doubt they have been changed.

FR-S8N · Jun 11, 2008

what are some good plugs to go with?

what is the best oil?

PSYKOSTEVO · Jun 11, 2008

FR-S8N said:
what are some good plugs to go with?

what is the best oil?

Oil wise I have been using the Motorcraft Synthetic Blend. I know it's not as good as Mobil 1 and Royal Purple, but it's a $15 oilchange with the Motorcraft Filter included. Pick them all up at Wal-Mart.

cave diver · Jun 11, 2008

FR-S8N said:
what are some good plugs to go with?

Champion #7989 are the only one-piece plugs in a standard heat range and they eliminate the TSB issue completely. They work great, I recommend them

Jholewin · Jun 12, 2008

Thanks for the information!

I've read a few threads on the spark plug issue, and it seems to be pure chance whether or not you're going to break one (or more). Are the new one-piece Champion plugs OEM equipment for '08+? If they're not OEM, I have a hard time seeing the dealer swallowing the cost for changing them out.

FR-S8N · Jun 12, 2008

what mobil 1 could i use on my car?

klaw · Jun 12, 2008

Jholewin said:
Thanks for the information!

I've read a few threads on the spark plug issue, and it seems to be pure chance whether or not you're going to break one (or more). Are the new one-piece Champion plugs OEM equipment for '08+? If they're not OEM, I have a hard time seeing the dealer swallowing the cost for changing them out.

How badly do they want the sale?

FR-S8N · Jun 12, 2008

cave diver said:
Champion #7989 are the only one-piece plugs in a standard heat range and they eliminate the TSB issue completely. They work great, I recommend them

aren't those about $15 a piece?

blbrchnk · Jun 12, 2008

FR-S8N said:
what mobil 1 could i use on my car?

5w20

PSYKOSTEVO · Jun 12, 2008

FR-S8N said:
aren't those about $15 a piece?

Aren't all the plugs for our cars?

cave diver · Jun 12, 2008

FR-S8N said:
aren't those about $15 a piece?

I paid $4.95 each for mine from Summit Racing but that was a mis-price and they are now around $11-12.00. I'm sure you can find them for less with a little web surfing. Even at $12.00 each they are a bargin when you consider how long they will last and that they eliminate TSB issues.

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