calling Almighty Suspension Guru's--help me spend my $$ wisely

lgndracer · Jan 21, 2006

comporange04GT said:
I would say go down a similar route but the lower control arms aren't really required.

When I was reading though this tread the first thing I was thinking was I would do the lowers for sure, and if I was limited by funds I would leave the stock uppers and do the panhard bar. Then if you wanted to take the next step you could do a torque arm and eliminate the uppers comletely. Also, there has been much conversation that the aftermarket uppers aren't really much better than stock.

damacman said:
I'm totally blown away by how flat it stays in corners and how awesome it drives

Yeah, yeah, yeah.........first you have to learn how to drive REALLY fast through corners, especially hard left handers............ (inside joke)

damacman · Jan 22, 2006

Left handers with 9# of boost huh . . . could get interesting! I was referring to high speed cornering - like well banked freeway interchanges, etc. Mine sticks pretty good. The G-Force T/As were a nice addition to this package . . .

comporange04GT · Jan 22, 2006

tomustang said:
It's the movement of the axle, not the placement when it's inactive he should worry about

If it is not centered in the car when it moves from side to side it will come closer to one fender lip than the other. If it is centered I would be suprised if the average amount of side to side movment would allow the tire to contact the fender lip.

tomustang · Jan 22, 2006

comporange04GT said:
If it is not centered in the car when it moves from side to side it will come closer to one fender lip than the other. If it is centered I would be suprised if the average amount of side to side movment would allow the tire to contact the fender lip.

2" total movement is average

bgrd351 · Jan 23, 2006

ok...it is final. I am not getting the 315's and 10.5's right now. that is something for the future. But I am probably going to go with what MM recommended including the panhard bar. I have a buddy who just agreed to come help me throw it all on and he is bringing his air compressor and tools...woohoo. The reason for the change about the 315's is due to the fact that if I do them I will not have enough $$ left over to do the gears. In the meantime, I have a couple easy questions:

1. still looking for a shop to do the gear install someplace close to Jax

2. what size tires do you recommend for the 17x9 rims...front and back (I'm leaning towards DR Nittos on back and Nitto 555's on front)

3. what size wheel spacer do I need to move the rim out to where it belongs? or at least how to properly measure it

hotrodnut · Jan 23, 2006

bgrd351 said:
1. still looking for a shop to do the gear install someplace close to Jax

2. what size tires do you recommend for the 17x9 rims...front and back (I'm leaning towards DR Nittos on back and Nitto 555's on front)

3. what size wheel spacer do I need to move the rim out to where it belongs? or at least how to properly measure it

1. Reinhart Performance located in Orange Park does gear installs. I have never had them do it but understand they will even do it while you wait! http://www.reinhartperformance.com/contactus.html

2. With street tires I would not go more than a 275-40, with drag radials for track use you can go bigger since you will have less tire pressure.

3. You can use up to 25mm (1") with a stock 8" wide rim and 245-45 tire without rubbing issues. With a 9" wide and the standard cobra factory offset I don't think a spacer of more than a 1/2" would work without rubbing. I personally would not run a spacer on the rear unless it bolts on first with it's own bolts and has seperate studs for the wheel plus it would need to be hub-centric. I have not seen that type in less than an inch wide but have heard MM has introduced on in a 1/2" offset??

bgrd351 · Jan 23, 2006

hey hotrodnut...you must be here in Jax. I just called that company...300 if I buy the gears from them or 350 if I bring them the gears. OUCH!!
but they said I can wait while they do it and it takes about 3 hours and they can do it on Sat so I dont have to take off work. Oddly enough they said that Motive is not a good gear to use in a mustang and that it will make alot of noise so that leaves me with 3.73 or 4.10. hmmm I guess I will do 3.73's then since I drive about 250 miles a week.

as for the rear tires I was looking at the 275/40 Nitto DR's but am wondering what size to run on front.

as for the spacers...MM did come out with hubcentric in a smaller size but need to replace studs with longer/stronger ones and they sell those too.

Silvr04GT · Jan 23, 2006

I would recommend the setup I have, 275/40R17 on all four corners (having the 275s up front looks super mean!). I have Nitto 555s. I have no rubbing issues at all.

bgrd351 · Jan 24, 2006

I would recommend the setup I have, 275/40R17 on all four corners (having the 275s up front looks super mean!). I have Nitto 555s. I have no rubbing issues at all.

and you dont have any tracking or road groove following problems? Why I ask is a lot of people complain about it on the wider front tires.

Silvr04GT · Jan 24, 2006

bgrd351 said:
and you dont have any tracking or road groove following problems? Why I ask is a lot of people complain about it on the wider front tires.

Ya, the car tracks on crappy roads, but honestly it's not that big a deal (and I have some CRAPPY roads where I live.) Actually last year at one point I had to switch to a set of stock GT wheels cause one of my Nittos got a nail and it was weird I almost missed the tracking! lol! It's something you get used to and it doesn't even bother you after that.

bgrd351 · Jan 24, 2006

well as of now my car tracks horribly due (I believe) to the top of the front tires leaning in real bad up top on the front tires and the 245 tires on the 17x9 rim (smaller tread width vs rim size). That is why I want to know what the best set up is to avoid tracking because we have bad roads here too not to mention DOT not being able to build a smooth bridge anywhere around here. Hell, most of these bridges can be set up at fairs and parks as amusement rides because they will bounce you out of your seat on a stock car and they were a blast in the jacked up F250 I had . Anyway...back on subject, I will be ordering my tires in the next week or less and need to figure out the sizes to get. I wont be able to rotate them anyway due to the DR's going on the back. So ideas on what size to make the front and how it works for you would be a great help.

bgrd351 · Jan 25, 2006

quick update...

1. still up in the air on the suspension due to unexpects bills but working on it

2. 3.73 gears going in on this Sat

3. 315s/10.5 back in the equation again...saw a stang today with dd bullits with them..

I just got to have

hotrodnut · Feb 9, 2006

bgrd351 said:
quick update...

1. still up in the air on the suspension due to unexpects bills but working on it

2. 3.73 gears going in on this Sat

3. 315s/10.5 back in the equation again...saw a stang today with dd bullits with them.. I just got to have

Any updates? Did the gears go in?

bgrd351 · Feb 9, 2006

yes update:

1. 3.73 gears are in and I look like this-->

2. also just got the new tires on..255/40/17 Nitto 555s on front and 315/35/17 Nitto DR's on back and now I look like --->

3. still having a bad running issue dealing with this miss

4. finally got my laptop to work with the XCal2 yesterday so I can do a little datalogging this weekend and maybe figure out what is going on

5. suspension will be ordered in about 2 weeks or so...came up a couple $$ short for a decent setup but looks like the springs,CC,panhard will be ordered and get rear UCA/LCA and shocks/struts later

hotrodnut · Feb 9, 2006

bgrd351 said:
yes update:

1. 3.73 gears are in and I look like this-->

2. also just got the new tires on..255/40/17 Nitto 555s on front and 315/35/17 Nitto DR's on back and now I look like --->

3. still having a bad running issue dealing with this miss

4. finally got my laptop to work with the XCal2 yesterday so I can do a little datalogging this weekend and maybe figure out what is going on

5. suspension will be ordered in about 2 weeks or so...came up a couple $$ short for a decent setup but looks like the springs,CC,panhard will be ordered and get rear UCA/LCA and shocks/struts later

Alright, sounds good! Looks like you now have a solid plan and are getting things done to your liking. Good luck on the miss issue.

hognutz · Feb 9, 2006

my .02 is do what you can. I got the drag MM arms with spherical bearings on both ends and my rear is located way better now.

I would do springs, shocks, subs, rear control arms, possibly CC plates depending on spring selection.

if really on on a budget I would buy the tokico HP kit of ebay ($395), full lenght subframes, MM drag control arms.

the car will handle night and day better. the MM sugested apoach is better but is also $900 more.

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