Cam, Maf and intake question

Have patience, friend. Welcome to Stangnet.

Someone will answer you in due time. Not everyone lives on Stangnet like me.

I have always used c and l 76mm with zero problems and im pretty sure the intake opening is only 70mm. Some people will prolly tell you to spend more money and get the pro m. I personally know of noone that uses a lightning maf.

if tuning the car it doesnt really matter, just make sure its 0-5v reads enough flow to match your engine, going too small means you will peg the meter which is bad, going to big isnt as bad but you end up losing resolution, if the maf is oversized your particular combo may not even use part of the maf.

keep it sized right so you can get alot of resolution in the curve when its tuned.

as for running an aftermarket MAF with a non-tuned EEC. generally its a crap shoot. the maf companies claim to "calibrate" the sensors, so you just bolt them on and go.

in all reality its a hack way to do things and by fooling the EEC with the sensor, ends up throwing load calculations off and thus using wrong spark advance values, overall its just not the best way to do things.

on a N/A car it may not make a difference, since a N/A is alot less prone to detonation, an error of say .5 AFR may not hurt anything.

but when running a blower or turbo car, its a big deal. your already quite a bit closer to the detonation threshold. theres less room for error under boosted condtions, its almost manditory to get real tune with a boosted car, if you want to keep your headgaskets and engine in one piece.

The LMAF requires a J3 tuner... no way around it.
You should think of boost as requiring a tune as well...

I agree that low end resolution (of the MAF scale) is lost if the MAF is "oversized"
but not mentioned is the accuracy of the MAF in the low end.
A 73mm C&L may will not be as accurate as the 90mm LMAF in the low range...

Also,
The LMAF was used on a stock 351w...
A modified 347 will be just fine with the LMAF.



BTW,
WTH is a 'bullet' cam?