hey guys, ive finally worked up some money and am ready to start doing some work on my stang. The first thing i am looking to install is a good cam, ive spent a wile looking and i kind of like the edelbrock Torker plus camshaft and lifter kit. i was just wondering if the .472 and .496 lift is too much for the stock heads and valve springs to handle, also it is hydraulic flat tappett, and im not shure if that will work. it's almost 290 duration but the site says it provides good power at 1500 rpm ,so im not shure if i will need a tune for it right away. also in the near future (at least within 3 months) i am also looking into getting some bbk ceramic unequal shorty headers, an o/r h- pipe, harland sharp rockers, ford racing pushrods, a new intake manifold (not shure which one) and some dart pro 1 heads (mabye). anyone have any ideas on this setup or have any info on the cam? thanks.
cam Questions
- Thread starter mr_bird
- Start date
ECU5.0
Banned
as far as the cam goes, i went through the same thing as you. a general consensus was to stick with a hydraulic roller cam. the stock valve springs will not work with any aftermarket cam
Dbeck002
New Member
The lift and duration should not cause any problems with any 87 and later mustang. I dont know much about the 86 pre.
I would not get unequal length headers. Too restrictive.
Replace everything at once, heads, cam and intake. That way you dont have to tear anything down twice.
I would not get unequal length headers. Too restrictive.
Replace everything at once, heads, cam and intake. That way you dont have to tear anything down twice.
mr_bird said:
The duration may be a bit much. The only text I have been able to find that gives guidelines for duration lists 290 duration cams as having a power range of 3200-7000rpm. If this is a stock bottom end that may be a bit high to fully take advantage of the rpms. You may be better off (for usable power) going in the 270 (1000-6000rpm) or 280 (2500-6500rpm) ranges. I would stick with hyd rollers for 2 reasons. The roller lifters allow more aggressive ramp rates, which means that your valves will get to max lift sooner and stay there longer. Also the roller lifters will produce less parasitic drag on the motor, freeing up more power and improving efficiency. For the springs I would follow the cam manufacturers advice.
If you describe your bottom end I may be able to offer more/better recommendations. Also, cam selection will depend a great deal on the flow capabilities of the heads. Do you have flow data for the heads you are considering?
jason
maverick0716
Founding Member
Dbeck002 said:
First of all they're talking about the valve springs on the stock heads, and second, why do you think unequal length shorty headers are restrictive? They're not. The reason Long tube headers are better for power is because they scavenge the exhaust better, not because they're less restrictive.
well, I've just found around 3g laying around in the bank collecting dust. so i think im gonna use that to buy a pair of heads (any recommendations?) and i guess ill go with the bbk equal length shortys, i cant afford long tube headers and i hear they require some exhaust modification and welding skills that i dont have. As for the cam, i hope that it willl fit with the heads i choose, my only concern right now is to go withthe flat tappet or roller. My dad says that i should definately go with rollers but they cost like 100$ more, and im not shure if its worth the money.
Dbeck002
New Member
maverick0716 said:
UN-equal length headers are more restrictive than any equal length or long tube headers of the same diameter pipe.
The exhaust pulses of UNEQUAL length headers will OVERLAP and hurt exhaust flow. The exhaust pulses of equal length headers are PARTITIONED and do not overlap which allows the exhaust to take full advantage of the headers. Those are true headers. Get it now?
ExplodingGopher
New Member
ECU5.0 said:
When i had the 302 in my car, i used stock valvetrain and put in the FRPP B303 cam with no problems, 224/224 @ .050 and .480/.480 lift, nice idle and good power above 3000 rpms.
1EVIL88VERT
New Member
can't go wrong with the trick flow cam/head/intake kit, and you do not need to mod anything to get long tube headers....they bolt right inmr_bird said:
1EVIL88VERT said:
i did look at the trick flow kit, but its way too expemsive for me right now, i am not intrested in dumping all of my money into my stang at one time (i wouldn't have enough money for gas). i will look into long tube heders, i might be able to afford them, right now during school my parents dont let me work, so i need to do whatever i can to make money, and it dosent come in too quick. and the 3 grand that i do have, im supposed to save for "emergencies"
anyway, does anyone know if i NEED to use a hyd. roller cam , or will flat tapet work without sacrificing too much. thanks.
Dbeck002
New Member
Long tubes from summit cost me around 220 bucks and the Hpipe was 120. Not to bad if you ask me.
If you are getting new rockers get roller rockers not stamped stock style. Those flex too much and cause valvetrain timing discrepencies.
I have the trickflow cam, its an awesome cam. Pulls really hard from 2.5 to 6.
Rule of thumb is when you get a cam, change the heads and intake too or else the cam is useless. You need a good flowing system before you can let the cam do its magic.
If money is an issue, i suggest you dont change the valve springs and rockers or the cam just yet. Because later down the line when you get new heads you wont be able to use the rockers and springs that you bought now (unless they are pedestal mount which is not preferred).
So save up, put money in good headers and some gears and an 80mm MAF sensor for now. good luck.
If you are getting new rockers get roller rockers not stamped stock style. Those flex too much and cause valvetrain timing discrepencies.
I have the trickflow cam, its an awesome cam. Pulls really hard from 2.5 to 6.
Rule of thumb is when you get a cam, change the heads and intake too or else the cam is useless. You need a good flowing system before you can let the cam do its magic.
If money is an issue, i suggest you dont change the valve springs and rockers or the cam just yet. Because later down the line when you get new heads you wont be able to use the rockers and springs that you bought now (unless they are pedestal mount which is not preferred).
So save up, put money in good headers and some gears and an 80mm MAF sensor for now. good luck.
ECU5.0
Banned
ECU5.0
Banned
lifters will last almost forever. the weak point is the valve springs. a stock spring will not hold up for long with an aftermarket cam simply because they arent strong to close to valve fast enough and you get really bad valve float and possibly drop a valve if it breaks from over compressing it
ExplodingGopher
New Member
After a whole year of racing around the streets and track, the only thing that went on the motor was that one lifter collapsed, the valve springs looked fine but i didn't feel like tearing it all apart just to get to the damn lifter. The motor had an AOD with stock stall, had no driveability issues either like so many people said say that i should. I know i was pushing it with using the stock springs, but the experiment did work. The new motor is much more fun though because its built "correctly", it puts me at ease.
I say wait on the cam swap. It isn't practical for the work/money/power involved. There isn't much of the latter that you will get.
Just keep saving or do some little things to make your ride a bit nicer or something
I have a 93 reef blue as well
I guess that is the only year they had them
Just keep saving or do some little things to make your ride a bit nicer or something
I have a 93 reef blue as well
I guess that is the only year they had themso after a bit of bargaining with my parents they let me use the money i have in the bank for my car, so i've decided to just go with the trick flow twisted wedge top end kit, it makes around 350 hp, and i think that will be plenty. I still have a few questions though, i was wonderin if i should install a bigger TB, MAFS, injectors, and fuel rails to accomodate the new equipment. Plus it says that it makes this power with a .30 over 306, do you guys recommend rebuilding the short block as a 306, the one i have now has bit less then 70k miles on it and the engine right now seems to pull strong, so im not too shure what to do, what do you guys think?
