Camber problems

A

afterglow

Member

Jul 2, 2006

89

0

6

Jul 4, 2008

#1

• Jul 4, 2008

• #1

I just got my car aligned but could not get it to spec. I was aiming for +2.5° caster, -0.5° camber and 1/8" total toe in.

I got everything to spec except for camber on the right side. The best we could get was -2.8°. My mechanic thinks it's a chassis alignment problem.

How do I get my alignment to spec?? The car a recent restomod '69 Mach 1. For the front end, I'm running CSRP Granada brakes, Opentracker roller perches, Opentracker street UCA, Moog LCA, KYB shocks, Shelby/Arning drop, power rack & pinion.

 

BarnStang

Founding Member

Mar 2, 2001

1,260

3

39

Hagerstown, MD

Jul 4, 2008

#2

• Jul 4, 2008

• #2

Are you sure its at MINUS 2.8? THat means the top of the tire is leaning inboard from center (straight up and down). If you are trying to GET to MINUS .05, it sounds like you need to shim the upper control arm to push the top of the tire outboard. If you can't get negitive camber on one side, it would mean the shock tower is leaning outboard? Keeping the upper control arm pushed out which would force the top of the tire outboard and produce positive camber. I may not completly understand the problem too...

 

Bosscat

Founding Member

Sep 30, 1999

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England

Jul 5, 2008

#3

• Jul 5, 2008

• #3

My tires are wearing crazy on the inside, same issue as you are in. Still rebuilding the car, but I bought a Monte Carlo(sp) bar to widen the top of the shock tower up. The shock tower moved about 1/2" every little bit will help when shimming the upper control arm.

 

BarnStang

Founding Member

Mar 2, 2001

1,260

3

39

Hagerstown, MD

Jul 5, 2008

#4

• Jul 5, 2008

• #4

If you already have so many shims that you are running out of threads to have the nut hold the upper control arm, then the only thing you can do is to put the car on a rack and pull that shock tower out a bit. It must have been hit on that side at some point. THe other thing you can try is to knock the bolts out of the upper control arm and put longer ones in. It will make for a lot of shims though. If you change the bolts, make sure you get harnened bolts.

 

A

afterglow

Member

Jul 2, 2006

89

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6

Jul 5, 2008

#5

• Jul 5, 2008

• #5

I'll be doing the shim route first and will update you guys if that works. Just normal washers, right?? Or are there special magic Mustang washers??

 

Bosscat

Founding Member

Sep 30, 1999

1,265

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England

Jul 5, 2008

#6

• Jul 5, 2008

• #6

afterglow said:

I'll be doing the shim route first and will update you guys if that works. Just normal washers, right?? Or are there special magic Mustang washers??

Click to expand...

Grind a slot in them so they can slip over the upper arm bolt, rather than taking the whole thing off

 

BarnStang

Founding Member

Mar 2, 2001

1,260

3

39

Hagerstown, MD

Jul 5, 2008

#7

• Jul 5, 2008

• #7

Your alignment shop should have shims???? For the A arms, it has a slot and a tab to hold it by, but yea, you can make your own. THe shims come in different thickneses to get the alignment right. You just may may not be able to get right on .05 with washers that are all the same thickness, but you can get pretty close.

 

A

afterglow

Member

Jul 2, 2006

89

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6

Jul 5, 2008

#8

• Jul 5, 2008

• #8

Your alignment shop should have shims????

Click to expand...

They should, but not here in the sticks (Philippines). Besides, they'll probably end up using washers as well so I might as well do it myself.

 

L

lauras70mach1

Member

Aug 1, 2004

202

0

17

minnesota

Jul 7, 2008

#9

• Jul 7, 2008

• #9

Car Craft did a neat story on spiffing up your shock towers:

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_0610_1967_ford_mustang_alignment_tricks/index.html