uhm, you dont need 93 octane to run cams, N/A cams are not a waste on a blown car, just not as efficient. And your saying if you wanna go with a blower down the road to not get cams, but why would you want the n2o when blown anyways, unless your forged and setup for crazy numbersdjk8705 said:
WhiteDevil69 said:uhm, you dont need 93 octane to run cams, N/A cams are not a waste on a blown car, just not as efficient. And your saying if you wanna go with a blower down the road to not get cams, but why would you want the n2o when blown anyways, unless your forged and setup for crazy numbers
nickthegenius said:OK, I don't claim to know all, but I can share what I have learned over the last few months when I was researching cams before installing them in April. And I still keep up on cam tech at Modular Depot where about 50% of the 2V guys are cammed or so it seems.
For nitrous, pick out a good set of N/A cams. For the level of nitrous any of us are going to see, we do not need a "nitrous-specific" cam. Comp and VT both have cams that would work great (Comp 262s and 270s or VT Stage I or IIs). I really don't know much about the Crower stuff. I am sure they are good, but there aren't many people running them yet.
Now don't get too disappointed if you think you might go s/c down the road and think you MUST swap cams again. The Comp 270s are actually supposed to be pretty good as a blower cam. Of all people, one of the VT guys that posts on MD stated that. Not as good as a blower grind, but they will still provide a nice gain with a s/c.
Now as far as my setup, I have an '03 with stock heads, stock intake, LTs, o/r X-pipe, pullies, upper plenum, 75mm TB, Steeda CAI, and Comp 270s. I took my car to a local tuner who told me up front that he hadn't done a (or very many) cammed 2v at that point in time. I still question the tune sometimes, but it put down 290hp @ 5580 and 301tq@4000. The car is very docile even with the lopey idle. It drives just like a stock car except for the slight problems that I am currently blaming on the tune after cold start-up.
Back to the original topic, I would get the cams first. Learn how to harness the new-found power at the track and have fun with it. Then, when you need an extra boost down the road, go for the nitrous. Thats my opinion
One last thing, I feel that there are two things holding me back at this point:
- 3.73 gears
- 6250 redline (needs to be 6500 to allow 6400rpm shifts)
nickthegenius said:OK, I don't claim to know all, but I can share what I have learned over the last few months when I was researching cams before installing them in April. And I still keep up on cam tech at Modular Depot where about 50% of the 2V guys are cammed or so it seems.
For nitrous, pick out a good set of N/A cams. For the level of nitrous any of us are going to see, we do not need a "nitrous-specific" cam. Comp and VT both have cams that would work great (Comp 262s and 270s or VT Stage I or IIs). I really don't know much about the Crower stuff. I am sure they are good, but there aren't many people running them yet.
Now don't get too disappointed if you think you might go s/c down the road and think you MUST swap cams again. The Comp 270s are actually supposed to be pretty good as a blower cam. Of all people, one of the VT guys that posts on MD stated that. Not as good as a blower grind, but they will still provide a nice gain with a s/c.
Now as far as my setup, I have an '03 with stock heads, stock intake, LTs, o/r X-pipe, pullies, upper plenum, 75mm TB, Steeda CAI, and Comp 270s. I took my car to a local tuner who told me up front that he hadn't done a (or very many) cammed 2v at that point in time. I still question the tune sometimes, but it put down 290hp @ 5580 and 301tq@4000. The car is very docile even with the lopey idle. It drives just like a stock car except for the slight problems that I am currently blaming on the tune after cold start-up.
Back to the original topic, I would get the cams first. Learn how to harness the new-found power at the track and have fun with it. Then, when you need an extra boost down the road, go for the nitrous. Thats my opinion
One last thing, I feel that there are two things holding me back at this point:
- 3.73 gears
- 6250 redline (needs to be 6500 to allow 6400rpm shifts)
Now stage I from both brands are supposed to work without a spring upgrade, correct? I would much prefer to avoid the spring swap if at all possible.nickthegenius said:
Red35th said:High 13s or mid 12s?
That about sums it up...
blue46gt said:
