can a MAF sensor just go bad instantly?

Foxfan88

My Grandpa has great wood.
Sep 13, 2004
2,487
4
0
Miami, Ok
last night i was at the track. car has been running fine, no problem. first pass, did my burnout, went to launch and the car just bogged, lost power and bogged each shift and ran slower.

got back to the pits, when you let it idle down it tries to die, and surges.

i couldnt figure it out, checked timing, fuel pressure. checked wires and stuff, all cyls were firing, it would sound godd revving, up no mechanical problems.

acted like it was loading up and it would easily die, the idle sounded differenent.

i started checking sensors making sure they were hooked up. got the maf, unplugged the MAF and there was no change, i even unscrewed it and took ths sensor out of the meter and it ran the same. so i know its something to do with the MAF, but i duno if its the wiring or if the sensor can just crap out completely all of a sudden, maybe it was just bad luck it happened right as i was making my pass, or could there be something about driving it hard to cause it to go bad ( doubt it but i duno.

also thought it could have been wiring, i noticed on the maf harness part of a wires jacked was tore a bit, but the wire was still there and i dont see that preventing it from working. i taped it up for now.

let me know what you think.

also, i have a pro-m MAF sensor calibrated for 36#s, can i somehow send this in or get it calibrated for 24# injectors. i can get a nice set of injectors, i plan to be tearing the engine down some anyway so i might a well upgrade.
 
^What he said...
Pulling codes should be the first step.

Unfortunately, unplugging the MAF only suggests that there may be something wrong with the MAF. There are other things that happen in the ecu when the MAF is uplugged.
You need the codes to set you on the right path...

Yes, the PMAS meter can be re-cal'd, but you will have to send it to them. Contact PMAS to get the details...


...i plan to be tearing the engine down some anyway so i might a well upgrade.
:flag:
I like the way you think...




Let us know,
jason
 
i got KOEO codes
67
81
82
85
84
23
32

nothing about maf i dont think

a bunch of it is old stuff i think


all this crap pissed me off, the car has an aftermarket harness some idiot put in and its a mess to work with and its all confusing, i am debating throwing a carb on it and doing away with all the fuel injection. i dont drive the car but mostly on the weekends and at the track
 
KOEO codes
67 - Neutral safety circuit failure
81 - Air management 2 circuit failure (AM2/TAD).
82 - Air management 1 circuit failure (AM1/TAB) .
85 - Canister Purge Solenoid circuit failure.
84 - EGR Vacuum Solenoid circuit failure.
23 - Closed throttle TPS voltage higher or lower than expected.
32 - EVP circuit below minimum voltage of 0.24 volts.

I think you may have several issue that need to be cleard up. The TAB and EVP one are not show stoppers.

What are the Key On Engine Running codes?

Allen
 
hmm that sucks.

well i am fixing to tear her down for a while and change some things. i will probably rip the painless harness out ( have no idea why the PO put it in) and put a factory harness back in, i have the factory injector harness and the rest of the factory harness is still hanging in the back of the engine bay.

i am wanting to get it all back to stock so i KNOW what i am working with

so help me here the whole engine harness from the factory consists of the big plug into the EEC-IV computer, runs thru the firewall, one part runs over and catches the MAF, and the plug for the HEGO harness, the the main harnes continues towards the drivers side with the EGR, TPS, IAC plugs, then the black and white 10 pins for the injector harness, then goes an catches the MAP sensor and then down to the coil and AC plug dealy.

is there just one plug that runs back to the fuel pump? i would assume it just branches out of the main harness before it goes thru the firewall.

i know theres alot more plugs like VSS and NSS but is this a general idea of what it is???

also it would give me a good chance to maybe go ahead and get the computer from a factory t5 car, so i can wire the car up like it was a 5 speed and then be able to pull codes with no problems.