Can I/should I Replace My Rod Bolts - W/ Engine In Car?!?

  • Thread starter Thread starter oz
  • Start date Start date
oz

oz

Founding Member
Jun 29, 2000
1,079
10
58
Plymouth, MI
#1
Greetings,
Long story short, I added a blower to my modified 5.0. The bottom end (block, crank, rods, pistons) are stock.... My combo made 488.5 RWHP.
I know this is too much for the stock bottom end if I want it to live long and I was thinking that the rod bolts were probably the weakest link.

My questions are:
1. Is it possible to change the rod bolts while the engine is in the car - assuming I've lifted it high enough to remove the pan? Are the bolts pressed into the rods or can they be removed?
2. Would replacing the rod bolts w/ ARP bolts be the best way to reinforce my bottom end - short of getting a sportsman or dart block w/ upgraded rotating assembly?

Thansk!
 
#2
I still think you will break the rods themselves or the block will crack, so it is probably not worth the effort. It is probably easier to change the blower pulley and back the power off if you want it to live longer with those components.
 
#3
Yea, I thought the same thing and suggested it to the tuner. They said that as long as I keep my rev limiter where it is (5750) and stay off the 1/4 mile that it should be fine for quite a while. I was just thinking that it bolts would be cheap insurance.
I belive they're pressed in but how tightly, I don't know.

Thanks!
 
#4
oz said:
Yea, I thought the same thing and suggested it to the tuner. They said that as long as I keep my rev limiter where it is (5750) and stay off the 1/4 mile that it should be fine for quite a while. I was just thinking that it bolts would be cheap insurance.
I belive they're pressed in but how tightly, I don't know.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Your mains and lifter valley (the block) are the weakest links. I dunno that I'd be that concerned about rod bolts.

I think I still have a main bolt girdle lying around somewhere. PM me if that's a consideration for you.
 
#6
The rod bolts are pressed in, not easily removed. I am fairly sure that the ends of your rods should be rebuilt, or resized, as well after installing arp bolts. Or so i was told when i looked into this idea. Joe
 
#8
it takes about 20 minutes to pull an engine in a fox. Hell ive gotten one out and on a stand and it was still hot from driving it into the shop. So this isnt really a reasonable question. why make it 20x harder than it needs to be?
 
  • Like
Reactions: 95Vert383AOD
#12
Just so we're clear, there is no way to change rod bolts with the engine in the car (that's not a completely hack method). :p

Failure of rod bolts are more related to RPM than anything else (assuming the engine is working the way it should). The faster you spin the engine, the faster you're pulling the pistons away from TDC, which puts the rod in tension, and the rod assembly has to work harder and harder to make this happen. Considering that guys run stock bottom end 302s to 6500 RPM and beyond with fairly regular success (myself included), I would think that your rod bolts are probably fine with 5750.

Remember, power comes from the combustion event, which compresses the rod. Unless you have bearing failure and the rod tries to turn with the crank, the bolts don't really see any of that load.
 
#13
Noobz347 said:
Your mains and lifter valley (the block) are the weakest links. I dunno that I'd be that concerned about rod bolts.

I think I still have a main bolt girdle lying around somewhere. PM me if that's a consideration for you.
Click to expand...

The main support need to be installed when the block is honed and main supports wont make the block any stronger, it'll just hold the pieces together when it breaks.
 
#16
Gearbanger 101 said:
I'd love to see that. You should be working for NASCAR.
Click to expand...
It's really not that impressive nor was it meant to be boasting. Obviously not including pulling in the car and putting it up on stands. Consider the amount of bolts that actually secure the motor in the car...there aren't but a few
 
#17
tannerc91gt said:
It's really not that impressive nor was it meant to be boasting. Obviously not including pulling in the car and putting it up on stands. Consider the amount of bolts that actually secure the motor in the car...there aren't but a few
Click to expand...
Dude, I spend that much time getting it on the hoise and another 20-min searching for tools. I supose in an ideal situation, with all of the tools laid out in front of you, with no complications (broken bolts, rounded bolt heads, rusted whatever, no pee breaks, etc) it could be possible....but for the rest of us, it's a good 2-hour job.

In any case...my hats off to you if you've actually done it in 20.
 
#18
it takes about 20 minutes to pull an engine in a fox. Hell ive gotten one out and on a stand and it was still hot from driving it into the shop. So this isnt really a reasonable question. why make it 20x harder than it needs to be?
Click to expand...

o_O


I've been working on cars for 30 years and can't say I've ever seen that done EXCEPT at the boneyard where they cut every hose, wire, etc. off. I must be getting old cause it takes me 20 minutes to get the car on jackstands, raise the hood, and then remember why I put the car on jackstands in the first place.

Care to come help me with the intake and header swap this weekend? That should take you about 10 minutes I guess. :stick:
 
#19
Haha it wasn't meant to be an amazing feat. And it was done with a buddy who's been around the fox block more than most. With it sitting on a hoist and the tool box next to us, it was out and on the stand in about 20-30 min. Still warm when we bolted it to the stand. If you think about it it's much less labor intensive than most work you'll do.

To each their own :shrug:

Btw, head swap shouldn't take you more than 6 minutes if you're changing the oil as well.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

TTSaleen
For Sale Ford 331 stroker engine for sale - with options!
Replies
6
Views
191
Engine and Power Adder
Noobz347
Noobz347
6
Hey all,I’m putting together a 302 for my 1968 Mustang and wanted to post the combo + some questions to make sure I’m not missing crucial
Replies
4
Views
801
1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
gray owl
G
MadSquirrelTech
Engine Suggestions on an engine rebuild. Stock cam/GT40Ps or aftermarket on both for a fun weekend driver?
Replies
23
Views
721
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
MadSquirrelTech
MadSquirrelTech
keel
Ford truck engine swap issues
Replies
16
Views
136
Other Auto Tech
keel
keel
from6to8
  • Locked
Engine Might have to get a Dart block but don't want to and if I do, then 363 instead of 331. Thoughts on what I've already bought so far.......
Replies
2
Views
488
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Noobz347
Noobz347
Top Bottom
Back
Forums
Menu