I noticed today that the plastic casing on my cable clutch is just a coating that is around a flexable metal casing. Will I still be able to burn my cable clutch?
Has the plastic melted yet? You will know when the plastic coating melts to the cable because you will go out to the car one day and your clutch pedal will be rock hard and you have to pump your clutch pedal a few times to break the seal. Once you start heating up that steel cable the actual cooling overnight and heating the next day will deteriorate the cable to eventually break. SO... make sure it is away far enough from the header now before you make my mistake.
i see that you have tri-y's.that is what i had before the cable conversion and i miss them.they had better sound an performance than the shorties on it now.what brand are your headers?maybe someone makes a tri-y that allows the use of a clutch cable.mine were from tony branda and very good quality.
LOK IN THE GALLERIES I POSTED PICS OF AN EASY AND CHEAP FIX. FLEXIBLE ALUMINUM ELECTRICAL CONDUIT. I BELIEVE IT WAS 1 1/4 I POLISHED IT TO A CHROME SHEEN ON A BUFFER WHEEL. CLEARCOATED IT AND PUT ONE OF THOSE ASBESTOS SPARKPLUG BOOTS ON EACH END . THE SECRET IS TO LEAVE THE AIRSPACE =THE LARGE TUBING SO THE HEAT DISSIPATES BEFORE REACHING THE CABLE. HOPE THE PICTURE HELPS.
i see that you have tri-y's.that is what i had before the cable conversion and i miss them.they had better sound an performance than the shorties on it now.what brand are your headers?maybe someone makes a tri-y that allows the use of a clutch cable.mine were from tony branda and very good quality.
when i installed my cable kit i couldn't see anyway to avoid changing headers.the cable was going to "dead center" one tube.didn't think that i could cable far enough away without kinking it too much,but maybe you can.plus use indskys advice.