Can someone explain to me LCAs?

InMyPrimeSVT

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Nov 11, 2005

#1

• Nov 11, 2005

• #1

I'm looking at purchasing a set of LCAs from MaximumMotorsports. Can someone explain to me exactly what benefits I would get from these? I don't exactly know what "wheel hop" means.

I'm trying to decide what is more bang for the buck right now between LCAs as well as a complete new MSD ignition setup.

What would you do?

 

I_AM_CANADIAN

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Nov 11, 2005

#2

• Nov 11, 2005

• #2

MSD ignition won't give you any more power. The stock ignition set up is sufficient for a stock engine. LCA's have better bushings which allow a more solid grip with the road. That is why you can launch more effectively with them.
I would personally go with an intake. It is not much more $ than LCA's and would be more "fun" to use.

 

InMyPrimeSVT

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#3

• Nov 11, 2005

• #3

I already have the Cobra intake. Not much need to improve.

 

Autobodypro_1

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#4

• Nov 11, 2005

• #4

LCA's

I assume you mean rear ones. The basic idea is to provide a stronger movable mounting for the rear axle. The stock ones are flimsy and will yield dimension wise when you pop the clutch at the track or put grippy tires on and go fast around corners resulting in "slop" or play in the rear end drasticly affecting handling due to improper rear axle placement...with me so far? HP arms have a special harder insulating material in the mounting holes and more robust contruction...which means lower 60 foot times and better handling....now the downside....increased ride harshness, more road noise, possible squeaks....it's all a compromise, give up a little here to get a little there. HTH

 

InMyPrimeSVT

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#5

• Nov 11, 2005

• #5

So autobody, would you go with an MSD ignition or the rear LCAs?

 

Autobodypro_1

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#6

• Nov 11, 2005

• #6

I would pass on the MSD until you get nitrous or a blower. The LCA's are a different story and it is predicated on what you have in mind for your car. I didn't want the hassles of more ride discomfort so I still have my stock ones on, but I don't drag my car much, but I autocross it and use an adjustable rear sway bar from Steeda. It stiffens up the rear end considerably and helps with turn in. You can adjust it all the way tight and play Dukes of Hazzard around every corner(big time oversteer) or the bar will act like a traction bar at the drags....the best part is it's only $129.00 and YOU can install it your self.

 

InMyPrimeSVT

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#7

• Nov 11, 2005

• #7

Would you get the MSD products before a Nitrous setup or after?

 

Autobodypro_1

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#8

• Nov 11, 2005

• #8

Msd

You may not need it if you are spraying less tha 100 hp....just close the spark plug gap, otherwise the nitrous will blow out the spark. I used the MSD for show car purposes and to have a better rev limiter and mostly to use the multi-step retard so I could run 13 degrees timing off the bottle. I have mine set to retard the timing to 8 degrees when the N2o is active and another 2 degrees of retard at full throttle to protect my engine....it worked for over 10 years!

 

DMAN302

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Nov 11, 2005

#9

• Nov 11, 2005

• #9

Autobodypro_1 said:

You may not need it if you are spraying less tha 100 hp....just close the spark plug gap, otherwise the nitrous will blow out the spark. I used the MSD for show car purposes and to have a better rev limiter and mostly to use the multi-step retard so I could run 13 degrees timing off the bottle. I have mine set to retard the timing to 8 degrees when the N2o is active and another 2 degrees of retard at full throttle to protect my engine....it worked for over 10 years!

Click to expand...

Agree with 100%..should not if your going with LCA's your best also to replace the uppers and axlebushings at the same time. The stock ignition system is actually quite good.

 

Shakerhood

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#10

• Nov 12, 2005

• #10

Might as well weld up your torque boxes while you are in there and kill 2 birds with 1 stone.

 

I_AM_CANADIAN

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Nov 12, 2005

#11

• Nov 12, 2005

• #11

InMyPrimeSVT said:

I already have the Cobra intake. Not much need to improve.

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When I looked at your sig, I looked at everything BUT you car. Sorry about that. In that case go for the LCA's you've got some power, now launch that sucker!

 

Maryland Stang

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#12

• Nov 12, 2005

• #12

Wheel hop is where the rear tires plant themselves to the asphalt (or concrete) and then the rear suspension has so much give that the tires basically lift back up reducing grip. If you do a nice long burnout and then go back and look at the marks you left a few days later you can actually see the tires getting bite and then lifting up multiple times. Mine was doing it bad until I replaced the lower LCAs.

 

C

Camman

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Nov 12, 2005

#13

• Nov 12, 2005

• #13

Maryland Stang said:

. Mine was doing it bad until I replaced the lower LCAs.

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[Very very sarcastic]did you also replace your UPPER LCA's?


To the original poster, you will love the LCA's I am almost sure of it. As long as you are willing to put up with a little harshness in the ride and maybe some squeeking. I have a vert, so I can not comment on the increase in road noise.

edit: Edited so I didnt come off like a big jerk to Maryland Stang

 

InMyPrimeSVT

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#14

• Nov 12, 2005

• #14

So would you guys recommend replacing the upper and lower rear control arms?

 

Autobodypro_1

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#15

• Nov 12, 2005

• #15

Yes, do them at the same time

 

Maryland Stang

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#16

• Nov 12, 2005

• #16

Camman said:

[Very very sarcastic]did you also replace your UPPER LCA's?

edit: Edited so I didnt come off like a big jerk to Maryland Stang

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What a jackarz! Just kidding! I've traded the wheel hop for bite in one tire. It does a real nice solid burnout now up until the right tire decides to lift and the car hooks hard left. Then I steer to the left and the left tire lifts and hooks the car hard to the right. It makes for a very interesting ride at 50+ MPH. Steeda Aluminum UCAs are in the budget for next year.

All of this money just to get 225 fwhp to plant to the pavement? I can hardly wait to do some mods to the engine...