Can someone tell me/measure clutch fork travel?

Booksix

New Member

Dec 8, 2003

179

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San Diego, CA

Jun 16, 2007

#1

• Jun 16, 2007

• #1

I am having problems with my clutch (aside from the occasional 'clutch speed related' grinding noise - no, it's not the TOB) and getting my trans in gear (new T5, 20k, unlikely to be the culprit). Basically, putting the clutch to the floor still leaves me pulling somewhat hard on the shifter to change gears. I know it's not an adjustment problem because I already have it pretty tight and the pedal action is still WAY high (meaning if I tighten it anymore to make sure I get full disengagement I might not get full engagement).

I'm thinking it may be a bad fork... Could someone possibly lay a ruler flat on their bell-housing and tell me the travel from 'pedal-up' to pedal-down' (and let me know if you measured using the front or back edge of the fork) Thanks!

 

BlownFiveLiter

have car, will race....wait, it doesn't run

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

3,133

18

108

Chicagoland

Jun 16, 2007

#2

• Jun 16, 2007

• #2

Without looking (I have an SN95 with a T5, so it should be similar), you're definitely describing an engagement issue. How did the pivot ball look when you replaced the clutch last? They're overlooked at times and can cause this very problem if the clutch appears to be in good shape.

 

Booksix

New Member

Dec 8, 2003

179

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San Diego, CA

Jun 16, 2007

#3

• Jun 16, 2007

• #3

Unfortunately I was rushing to get my car back together for the work day in the a.m. and failed to check the ball when putting everything back in... although the fork seemed to lock on pretty tight...

I'm for sure thinking it's probably a bad fork or pivot ball (seems like the fork is pulling back off the ball, pivoting somewhat on the TOB as well and killing the travel). Would any of this cause my noise? It sounds somewhat like a bad TOB/bad wheel bearing but seems to be directly associated with the speed of the clutch (not the engine speed OR car speed) meaning my grinding/rocks tumbling sound resides somewhere between the clutch disc and 1st gear.

Also, for what it's worth, my King Cobra clutch is about 7 years old now but still grabs like crazy so I'm figuring the plate and disc are fine, and my TOB is brand new...

 

Booksix

New Member

Dec 8, 2003

179

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San Diego, CA

Jun 17, 2007

#4

• Jun 17, 2007

• #4

Also, is the stock pivot ball adjustable like all the replacements I'm finding on the net? If not, is there any place to buy this stock style pivot ball that doesn't need to be adjusted? And if no to that one, how is the pivot ball properly adjusted without having to reinstall and pull the trans multiple times to adjust?

 

B

BYRDPE

Founding Member

Nov 4, 1998

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Memphis,Tn.

Jul 19, 2007

#5

• Jul 19, 2007

• #5

Booksix said:

Also, is the stock pivot ball adjustable like all the replacements I'm finding on the net? If not, is there any place to buy this stock style pivot ball that doesn't need to be adjusted? And if no to that one, how is the pivot ball properly adjusted without having to reinstall and pull the trans multiple times to adjust?

Click to expand...

Anyone?
My pivot ball doesn't look too good and I want to replace it.
Anyone know where to get a replacement?

 

EMW150

Founding Member

May 22, 2000

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Roaring Spring,PA

Jul 20, 2007

#6

• Jul 20, 2007

• #6

The adjustables are nice. Then to adjust you don't need to install washers under it. You can set it up with the bell on and the transmission out. When you take the old one out you can set it to the same length as the origional. Then you lengthen it as much as you can without having any interference with the fork. You can just slide the fork through the window and engage it on the pivot ball for the test fit. When you get it where you have the most travel just lock down the locknut on the pivot ball. You want the fork as far rearward as you can get it. Makes a big difference in clutch disengagement.

 

69gmachine

Member

Dec 2, 2004

576

2

19

Southern Maryland

Sep 29, 2007

#7

• Sep 29, 2007

• #7

I see no one ever actually answered the original question. I'm having the same type of problem, only mine is a conversion in a '69 Mach 1, so I seldom look in the 5.0 section. I have a Tremec TKO with the matching factory alum bell. I have a hydraulic clutch with 3/4" travel at the slave cylinder. The pushrod engages the fork closer to the pivot than the cable does, at the large hole used to insert the ball end of the cable. This results in more travel than engaging farther out on the fork where the stock cable sits. Should this be enough to disengage the clutch? The bell was bought new and was assumed not to require any adjustment to the pivot ball, but after reading this thread, I'm not so sure.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm really anxious to get it back out on the track!!

 

JungleJoe

I was like well chit..Im missing something

Jul 25, 2011

184

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Mo.

Dec 16, 2020

#8

• Dec 16, 2020

• #8

I know this is older than dirt... I just posted a thread before I seen this.. im working on mine now and if I get it lined out..or not..Ill report back in my thread