Can you feel the difference?
- Thread starter FourEyed85
- Start date
DMAN302
My mom says thanks for the pearl necklace.
no they didnt come with RRs. there would be a difference but probably not very noticeable.
EDIT: i can definately feel the difference when i put mine in, the engine just seems to be able to work easier. revs up a lot faster. but ive also got quite a few mods. not sure how much of a difference it would make on a stock motor.
pedestal or stud mount?
EDIT: i can definately feel the difference when i put mine in, the engine just seems to be able to work easier. revs up a lot faster. but ive also got quite a few mods. not sure how much of a difference it would make on a stock motor.
pedestal or stud mount?
Curse
Member
Black-Fifty
New Member
- Dec 7, 2005
- 24
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You wont feel a difference in Roller rockers, all RR do is alow the cars engine to rev up a little better and faster and reduces friction. They make hardly any HP difference unless you go with the 1.7 but even then Its not a noticable difference.
srothfuss
Last night I stabbed the same guy 7 times in a row
The OEM heads are pedestal mounted non roller rockers. To get your Stud mounted roller rockers to work you need to have the pedestal mount machined to accept the stud. It is a common change and probably won't cost too much more over your rebuild.
I believe Comp Cams or Crane sell the conversion kit that will include the studs and guide plates to make it all work on a stock headed car. Don't forget you will need to spring for hardened pushrods also.
As most people eluded to in the replies. A roller rocker reduces friction in the rotating assembly. Friction produces heat, so the less friction you have means the cooler your motor will be. It won't be a great deal cooler, but every bit helps.
I believe Comp Cams or Crane sell the conversion kit that will include the studs and guide plates to make it all work on a stock headed car. Don't forget you will need to spring for hardened pushrods also.
As most people eluded to in the replies. A roller rocker reduces friction in the rotating assembly. Friction produces heat, so the less friction you have means the cooler your motor will be. It won't be a great deal cooler, but every bit helps.
Higher ratio will add some to mostly
your mid range torque/throttle response
because of the added lift, however on a
basically stock headed motor, the diff likely will be somewhere around 10+ lb-ft. It won't move your hp or torque peaks up cuz the duration is only increased by a couple degrees. FYI a stock cam at .444 lift goes to about .472 with 1.7's and
.477 with 1.72's.
your mid range torque/throttle response
because of the added lift, however on a
basically stock headed motor, the diff likely will be somewhere around 10+ lb-ft. It won't move your hp or torque peaks up cuz the duration is only increased by a couple degrees. FYI a stock cam at .444 lift goes to about .472 with 1.7's and
.477 with 1.72's.
Well my motor isnot going to be stock after the rebuild. Im also putting in a Trick Flow Stage 1 cam TFS-5142000and brand new roller lifters. Not sure if Roller Lifters came stock or not but im putting in new ones. What kind of hardened push rods and what size should i get with my cam and Roller Rockers? And should I port and polish? And if I do would I have to get better exhaust. hell I aint trying to pop anything off. lol
legalize420
Active Member
jammer84_03
New Member
- Nov 30, 2003
- 468
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I have a stock motor.
i put some 1.7 RRs on the motor.
While i am sure there is a power increase, i cant feel it.
Only thing i noticed is a smoother rev all the way though the powerband.
But as far as SOTP, nah didnt feel a thing.
On another note, people always say that they WONT change the sound of your car.
I think they do, my friend said they changed his sound. And my car sounds different also.
Not necessarily a lope, just a meatier stock cam idle.
i put some 1.7 RRs on the motor.
While i am sure there is a power increase, i cant feel it.
Only thing i noticed is a smoother rev all the way though the powerband.
But as far as SOTP, nah didnt feel a thing.
On another note, people always say that they WONT change the sound of your car.
I think they do, my friend said they changed his sound. And my car sounds different also.
Not necessarily a lope, just a meatier stock cam idle.
legalize420
Active Member
FourEyed85 said:
you dont need hardened pushrods, and yes drop them off at the machine shop. stock exhaust will work but you will see more gains with a full exhaust.
While he may not NEED hardened pushrods the small investment for them would definatly be a good one.legalize420gt95 said:
Also for what you would probably pay to have someone port and polish your stock heads, that money might be better off spent on a full exhuast or at least a good start at some aftermarket alluminum heads.
Ok, lets get the bogus information out of the way and straigthen some things up.
1st. Hardened pushrods are only needed if you are running guideplates under the rockers. No guideplates, no hardened pushrods.
2nd. Your 85 engine was the first year of the roller 5.0, but it was a transition year, but most likely you have rollers. The rockers were pedestal mount stamped rockers.
3rd. You can get rockers that are meant for pedestal mount so you save the money of machine work.
4th. Stock rocker ratio was 1.6, so going to roller 1.6's wont really do much but aid in stability and friction reduction. But if your running a small cam and stock heads your not even using the advantages of having roller rockers.
5th. The rockers you want are way too much money and your money is better spent elsewhere. Either keep the stock rockers or buy cheaper ones.
6th. Why are you replacing your lifters, are they bad? Roller lifters rarely go bad because they dont wear like flat tappets. You can reuse roller lifters on a new cam.
7th. Porting; you cant 30 over your heads. That is a term used when talking about engine boring and honing and it means the amount of thickness you remove from the cylinder walls to true up the cylinder bores. For every .030 you overbore you gain around 5-6 cubic inches.
Ok, with those out of the way; I would spend the money elsewhere say on some thumper heads. If your going to pay to have your heads rebuilt and ported, just buy some thumper heads that are already done. You can choose whether you want pedestal or stud mount. I'd either reuse your stock rockers, or get a cheaper kit. I know Crane has a kit that works with pedestal mount and I believe its under $200. Remember, hot rods were making great power for years without roller rockers so dont think you need them. Your really not doing much to your motor and installing roller rockers is added insurance you dont really need. This is even more true if you arent even adding lift by using a longer rocker. You have chosen a name brand extruded anodized aluminum rocker which aside from rail mounted systems, is the most expensive type you can choose. A good choice for a high revving expensive headed motor, but you arent doing that so it isnt needed. Your basically mixing up the order of the upgrades system, and rockers isnt up till further down the list. But if you are going to do the heads, then I suggest just buying your heads from Thumper since his will make more power and it isnt that much more. Then if you opt for the stud mount ones, then go with a cheaper rocker, maybe one not made by Comp or isnt extruded. You really only need extruded if your working some very heavy valvesprings. I'd say anything in the X-cam and up size would need an extruded rocker because the higher lift demands a much stiffer spring, and those cams are in the .542 lift range.
Also, if you are going to reuse your pistons, make sure they have valve reliefs on them. Just make sure you dont have an newer 85 engine that may have gotten 86 internals. In 86 the pistons had no valve reliefs which can be trouble if your using a larger cam, maybe machining the heads and maybe using a larger valve.
1st. Hardened pushrods are only needed if you are running guideplates under the rockers. No guideplates, no hardened pushrods.
2nd. Your 85 engine was the first year of the roller 5.0, but it was a transition year, but most likely you have rollers. The rockers were pedestal mount stamped rockers.
3rd. You can get rockers that are meant for pedestal mount so you save the money of machine work.
4th. Stock rocker ratio was 1.6, so going to roller 1.6's wont really do much but aid in stability and friction reduction. But if your running a small cam and stock heads your not even using the advantages of having roller rockers.
5th. The rockers you want are way too much money and your money is better spent elsewhere. Either keep the stock rockers or buy cheaper ones.
6th. Why are you replacing your lifters, are they bad? Roller lifters rarely go bad because they dont wear like flat tappets. You can reuse roller lifters on a new cam.
7th. Porting; you cant 30 over your heads. That is a term used when talking about engine boring and honing and it means the amount of thickness you remove from the cylinder walls to true up the cylinder bores. For every .030 you overbore you gain around 5-6 cubic inches.
Ok, with those out of the way; I would spend the money elsewhere say on some thumper heads. If your going to pay to have your heads rebuilt and ported, just buy some thumper heads that are already done. You can choose whether you want pedestal or stud mount. I'd either reuse your stock rockers, or get a cheaper kit. I know Crane has a kit that works with pedestal mount and I believe its under $200. Remember, hot rods were making great power for years without roller rockers so dont think you need them. Your really not doing much to your motor and installing roller rockers is added insurance you dont really need. This is even more true if you arent even adding lift by using a longer rocker. You have chosen a name brand extruded anodized aluminum rocker which aside from rail mounted systems, is the most expensive type you can choose. A good choice for a high revving expensive headed motor, but you arent doing that so it isnt needed. Your basically mixing up the order of the upgrades system, and rockers isnt up till further down the list. But if you are going to do the heads, then I suggest just buying your heads from Thumper since his will make more power and it isnt that much more. Then if you opt for the stud mount ones, then go with a cheaper rocker, maybe one not made by Comp or isnt extruded. You really only need extruded if your working some very heavy valvesprings. I'd say anything in the X-cam and up size would need an extruded rocker because the higher lift demands a much stiffer spring, and those cams are in the .542 lift range.
Also, if you are going to reuse your pistons, make sure they have valve reliefs on them. Just make sure you dont have an newer 85 engine that may have gotten 86 internals. In 86 the pistons had no valve reliefs which can be trouble if your using a larger cam, maybe machining the heads and maybe using a larger valve.
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