Can't adjust out enough camber...

the plates should have enought adj to correct it..i would get another place to ck it again...was everthing ok b4 the swap..has the car ever been wrecked b4?..check the lower a*arm bushings?......

Stang&2Birds has posted some pretty good info before about lowering a four eye. It sounds like it's tougher than an aero fox. You might be able to find some of those old threads.

Did the plates have the ability to be mounted upside down?

why would a four eye be any differant? isnt it the same thing? my 86 was not hard to do.

I wonder if the k-frame is also from an 86, like the rest of the nose. The '86 k-frame is shorter. So, it's hard to get corrected camber on lowered or 5-lug conversions. For a 91-93, with cc plates, it shouldn't be hard to get the correct camber. However, you're still talking about doing something that the car/front_end where not designed for.

So, the individual tolerances for any specific car can be such that even "simple" or "common" mods will not work without some additional work for that specific car. Often very general statements are made about mods. However, people should realize that any mod that pushes the factory limits/tolerances may require some "additional work".

For example:
Enlarging the hole on top of the strut tower
Moving or notching fenders
etc

For my '86, and for most '86 Stangs, there are a number of "little things" (that can be a big pain and near impossible to do by yourself) that often are done to lower the car, or for a 5-lug conversion.

For example, to put in the real/orig booster that came with the M2300K Cobra brake kit in an '86, the strut tower back seam must be folded over and welded. The strut tower to firewall orientation changed ?3? times since '84. For a pre-87, the strut tower is closer to the firewall. Also, the FCA to k-frame mounting points moved a few times.

The changes were minor. But, when installing springs, doing an alignment, caring if a tire/rim combo will fit, it all adds up.

If your k-frame has "punched out triangles" on the top holding in the spring, then if I recall correctly, it's unlikely a 91 k-frame. The ?89+? k-frames went to a welded on top cup for the top of the spring on the k-frame. I know that "some thread" on the other site has good pictures of the different k-frames.

That's about all I can think of.
Good luck!

i went through a similar thing recently, seems alot of foxes have this issue where they cant tune out positive/negative camber, i went through the same thing, MM told me of a fix to slightly enlarge the holes in the strut mounts to be able to pull the strut outward to increase camber adjustment, i did it on my car and it worked perfectly

SScott said:

AWESOME! Thanks dude, I was wanting to hear that someone else experienced this and had a resolution. I really wanted to simply open up the strut tower hole about a 1/2" but did not want to do anything that would decrease the strength or make the car worth less. Your car is bad arse and MM knows their stuff so, I will plan this for the weekend. Did you use stones/bits like head porting tools? I have those as well as saws.

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i used a die grinder with a toothed steel bit and it worked great, you should need to go more than 1/8" though 1/2" is alot, just do the top hole and you'll be set, remember no more than 1/8" at a time, you can gain 2-5* with an 1/8" wack out