Can't Figure This Out!!
- Thread starter 90BlueGTStang
- Start date
Yes.
If I were in your place, I would go with the junkyard MAF upgrade that I posted.
- Nov 22, 2011
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C
Can you post a link to the junkyard MAF upgrade please?? Also, is it a direct MAF swap from the junkyard? Like how does it work?? To get a MAF for my car, I have to order a new one thru O'riellys and it takes a day to get here and plus it's $80.
Can you post a link to the junkyard MAF upgrade please?? Also, is it a direct MAF swap from the junkyard? Like how does it work?? To get a MAF for my car, I have to order a new one thru O'riellys and it takes a day to get here and plus it's $80.
- Nov 22, 2011
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No, none of friends have a 5.0, I'm like the only one in this small town I live in that has a fox body lol. I've seen maybe 2 other ones in my town lol.
MAF interchange for 93 and earlier Mustang.
Swapping the MAF sensors between different MAFs is a big no no. The MAF body and sensor are designed to match each other. Therefore you can't swap sensors between different part number MAF bodies and maintain proper calibration. The assembly is designed to match the computer’s internal program, and swapping a different MAF can upset the computer's calibration. In other words, your monster MAF from some other car probably won't match the calibration of your 5.0 Mustang computer.
The OEM Ford MAFs are not calibrated to injector size. The injector sizing is done in the computer’s internal programming. Aftermarket MAF’s “lie” to the computer in an attempt to fool the computer into changing the injector pulse on timing to match the increased airflow.
The exception to the above statements is if you have an aftermarket tuner system such as Moates Quarterhorse, Tweecer, or similar device. Then you can alter the computer's MAF transfer function table to match whatever MAF housing and sensor you have. The tuner device works in conjunction with a high quality Air/Fuel ratio meter so that you can tell what sort of air/fuel mixture you have a any given time.
The only other MAF that is a one for one swap for a 93 and earlier 5.0 Mustang is the 94-95 Mustang MAF.
94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 55 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. It uses a slip on duct on the side that goes to the throttle body and a 4 bolt flange on the other. You need a flange adapter to fit the stock slip on air ducting that goes to the air box. Wiring plugs right in with no changes. *1 *2
Once your replacement 70MM MAF is in place, disconnect the battery for about 10 minutes. When you reconnect the battery and start the engine, the computer will relearn the settings for the new MAF.
*1.) Metal flange adapterhttp://www.kustomz.com/components.html Buy the TR70 for $39.95. Or spend some time on eBay looking for one that may fit.
*2.) MAF & sensor interchange
The 94-95 Mustang 5.0 MAF & sensor is also found on:
1995-94 Mustang 3.8L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Crown Victoria 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1995-94 Mustang, Mustang Cobra 5.0L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Town Car 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Grand Marquis 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
Evidently the –A1A, -A2A, AA, etc. on the end of the part number is a minor variant that did not change the operating specs. Youshould be able to ignore it and have everything work good.
Swapping the MAF sensors between different MAFs is a big no no. The MAF body and sensor are designed to match each other. Therefore you can't swap sensors between different part number MAF bodies and maintain proper calibration. The assembly is designed to match the computer’s internal program, and swapping a different MAF can upset the computer's calibration. In other words, your monster MAF from some other car probably won't match the calibration of your 5.0 Mustang computer.
The OEM Ford MAFs are not calibrated to injector size. The injector sizing is done in the computer’s internal programming. Aftermarket MAF’s “lie” to the computer in an attempt to fool the computer into changing the injector pulse on timing to match the increased airflow.
The exception to the above statements is if you have an aftermarket tuner system such as Moates Quarterhorse, Tweecer, or similar device. Then you can alter the computer's MAF transfer function table to match whatever MAF housing and sensor you have. The tuner device works in conjunction with a high quality Air/Fuel ratio meter so that you can tell what sort of air/fuel mixture you have a any given time.
The only other MAF that is a one for one swap for a 93 and earlier 5.0 Mustang is the 94-95 Mustang MAF.
94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 55 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. It uses a slip on duct on the side that goes to the throttle body and a 4 bolt flange on the other. You need a flange adapter to fit the stock slip on air ducting that goes to the air box. Wiring plugs right in with no changes. *1 *2
Once your replacement 70MM MAF is in place, disconnect the battery for about 10 minutes. When you reconnect the battery and start the engine, the computer will relearn the settings for the new MAF.
*1.) Metal flange adapterhttp://www.kustomz.com/components.html Buy the TR70 for $39.95. Or spend some time on eBay looking for one that may fit.
*2.) MAF & sensor interchange
The 94-95 Mustang 5.0 MAF & sensor is also found on:
1995-94 Mustang 3.8L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Crown Victoria 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1995-94 Mustang, Mustang Cobra 5.0L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Town Car 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Grand Marquis 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
Evidently the –A1A, -A2A, AA, etc. on the end of the part number is a minor variant that did not change the operating specs. Youshould be able to ignore it and have everything work good.
- Nov 22, 2011
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Also, I don't if it's worth mentioning, I've already replaced the IAC, TPS sensor and we adjusted it and cleaned the throttle body. When I get a new MAF sensor and get it hooked up, I'll post back here and let y'all know how it's running. I bought some electronic cleaner to clean the connections to the MAF to see of it helps when I clean it, because it looked like there was some corrosion in the connector.
How to clear codes.
Clearing the codes by pressing a button on the scan tool or disconnecting the test jumper used to start the code dump does not erase the “learned settings”. All it does is erase the stored codes in memory.
You must clear the codes anytime you replace any sensor. The following tells you how and is different from the method above
Clear the computer codes by disconnecting the battery negative terminal and turn the headlights on. Turn the headlights off and reconnect the all sensors including the MAF and anything else you may have disconnected. Then reconnect the battery negative cable.. This clears all spurious codes may have been generated while troubleshooting problems. It also clears the adaptive settings that the computer "learns" as it operates. Clearing the codes does not fix the code problems, it just gives you a clean slate to start recording what the computer sees happening.
Run the car for at least 30 minutes of driving and dump the codes again to assure that you have fixed the code problem or sensor problem. This is necessary for the computer to relearn the adaptive settings that the computer uses for proper operation. The engine may run rough at first, but should smooth out as it runs for the 15-20 minute learning period.
Clearing the codes by pressing a button on the scan tool or disconnecting the test jumper used to start the code dump does not erase the “learned settings”. All it does is erase the stored codes in memory.
You must clear the codes anytime you replace any sensor. The following tells you how and is different from the method above
Clear the computer codes by disconnecting the battery negative terminal and turn the headlights on. Turn the headlights off and reconnect the all sensors including the MAF and anything else you may have disconnected. Then reconnect the battery negative cable.. This clears all spurious codes may have been generated while troubleshooting problems. It also clears the adaptive settings that the computer "learns" as it operates. Clearing the codes does not fix the code problems, it just gives you a clean slate to start recording what the computer sees happening.
Run the car for at least 30 minutes of driving and dump the codes again to assure that you have fixed the code problem or sensor problem. This is necessary for the computer to relearn the adaptive settings that the computer uses for proper operation. The engine may run rough at first, but should smooth out as it runs for the 15-20 minute learning period.
- Nov 22, 2011
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So just an update, I got to messing around with the car again and I unplugged the MAF sensor with the car running and it revved up with no problem, but with it plugged it, it didn't even want to rev up. This makes me believe that the MAF sensor is just going out. Any opinions?
- Nov 22, 2011
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Don't order new one. The junkyard upgrade is a much better deal both performance and money wise. Just make sure that you can return the part if it doesn't check out.
- Nov 22, 2011
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I actually just ordered the new MAF sensor just to be safe. My luck is that every maf sensor on those cars is bad lol
- Nov 22, 2011
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- Nov 22, 2011
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Ok I hooked up the new MAF sensor and I cleared the codes but I still have the 66c code, it's abou5 the MAF sensor or VAF too low or something like that. What does that mean? All the other codes that I originally had when I started this thread went away.
Check your MAF wiring
Check your MAF wiring - see my previous post on the first page of this thread. All the diagrams are there.
Check your MAF wiring - see my previous post on the first page of this thread. All the diagrams are there.
- Nov 22, 2011
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OK, I did the headlight code reset and Ilathe codes 33,41 and 66 came back but the car runs better since I replaced the maf sensor. It doesn't stall and it revs up better then it did. When I rev it now, it doesn't want to stall.
