Car idles like it has a Aftermarket cam in it.. when it doesnt.. HELP

I know exactly what it is, same thing happened to my car like a month ago. Its a simple $14.99 peice but im not gonna tell you what it is because of that racist/disrespectful comment you made.

Swarzkopf said:

Seriously, don't insult people who lost 6 million people in gas chambers and concentration camps and then act suprised when someone gets offended.

Maybe you'll understand better when its worded like this:

like lots of jewish dudes were totaly killed n stuff so y u gotta be frontin?...seriously. y dont u just c-h-i-l-l with ur r-a-c-i-s-m?

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yeah i made the comment but most people dont take it literally.. u

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Why don't you try explaining that "most people don't take it literally" to a Jewish man who lost his whole family in death camps?

racist?? how am i being racist..

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For ****'s sake, do you really need it explained to you?

I guess saying you "****** rigged" it wouldn't have racist either, right?

Good grief...

were the one blowing it outa proportion.. i was just tryin to get some help w/ my car.. so u chill out man

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Again, explain to holocaust survivors how *I* "blew it outa proportion" when you used the word "jewish" to describe something stupid, crappy, ect. I won't "chill out" when confronted with the kind of idiotic, racist bull**** that causes so many problems in the world.

Get a can of starter fluid and when the car is running, spray all around the intake manifold and every part of the intake tract (Don't get any on the headers). If your idle goes up, u have a vacuum leak. Then try replacing the cap and rotor. Then try replacing the MAF.

TrueBlue95GT said:

Get a can of starter fluid and when the car is running, spray all around the intake manifold and every part of the intake tract (Don't get any on the headers). If your idle goes up, u have a vacuum leak. Then try replacing the cap and rotor. Then try replacing the MAF.

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Your telling this dude to spray ether on a gasoline motor? I know you didn't say to spray it into the filter but holy hell have you ever seen what this s**t can do to a gasoline motor. Bad idea.

I've done it many times and have had no problems. It's designed for gasoline engines. And anyway, it's a very minute amount even if it did have any affects on gasoline engines. WORD TO THE WISE...make sure that your spark plug wires are not arcing first. If this stuff comes in contact with a spark your going to have a whole another problem on your hands.

Hahaha, have u guys ever seen an ether fire? It's rediculous...

Organic Chemistry Lab, we get to play with ethyl ether, holy **** is that stuff potent and spreads like liquid fire... so freaking volatile.

From someone just reading the thread. It was/is a racial comment. Saying, "I'm sorry, BUT what's the big deal." Sorta cancels itself out.

But back to the problem. There are a TON of things it could be. Read up a bit on here. You'll get it eventually. Also, post what mods you have, if any. It'll help.

If you haven't yet. Run the codes... or have an auto store do it for you. Some places will run codes for free if you don't know how. Just becareful as they will try to sell you a new car piece by piece.

It seems like most of you are in left field.


If the car runs fine while driving, but idles like crap, it is for SURE vacuum. I just had my upper intake off on my Cobra last weekend. After my car was back together, about a block after completion my car started idleing like it had a huge cam and stank real bad. I found the PCV valve popped out. put it back in and it ran fine for a few minutes until it popped out again, and again, and again. Finally I cooled the motor off and RTV'ed the damn thing in the plug. Works Much better now that the valve stays in. Vacuum is more necessary at idle than at cruising speeds/rpm. The vacuum slopes off as the speed/rpm goes up. According to my ASE test manual that is what is says.