car is broke need help!! vid

Night Shifter

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Dec 24, 2005

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Dec 3, 2009

#41

• Dec 3, 2009

• #41

Posted via Mobile Device is there any way my PATS system could be causing the car to not start?

 

tag4car

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Nov 21, 2005

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Birmingham AL

Dec 3, 2009

#42

• Dec 3, 2009

• #42

Night Shifter said:

Posted via Mobile Device is there any way my PATS system could be causing the car to not start?

Click to expand...

Yes, Did you have any issues downloading the tune last time, If incomplete that can cause a whole truckload of issues, I had that happen to my Gt once with a Predator, And my livewire stuck at 99% on the cobra

 

Night Shifter

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Dec 3, 2009

#43

• Dec 3, 2009

• #43

tag4car said:

Yes, Did you have any issues downloading the tune last time, If incomplete that can cause a whole truckload of issues, I had that happen to my Gt once with a Predator, And my livewire stuck at 99% on the cobra

Click to expand...

Posted via Mobile Device nope no issues loading the last tune...maybe i can try and switch back to the last one? thr only reason i ask about the pats system is because the theft light stays on after i try and start it

 

tag4car

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Nov 21, 2005

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Birmingham AL

Dec 3, 2009

#44

• Dec 3, 2009

• #44

only if you had a full power supply- then you could flash

 

patman0911

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Tuscaloosa, AL

Dec 3, 2009

#45

• Dec 3, 2009

• #45

PATS will still let you crank - it cuts the fuel.

The sound in the video is your starter trying to engage and not being able to draw enough juice to turn the motor - either because the battery is too weak, a connection at the battery, starter or ground is bad, a wire is shorting out somewhere or the starter is fried, or worst case, you've siezed the motor... or any combination of those things.

 

Mike97gt

it doe snot

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Jan 26, 1999

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Dec 3, 2009

#46

• Dec 3, 2009

• #46

It's not pats...


and you said all the accessories spun free by hand..

You need to check that starter and you need to see if this motor moves by hand.. if the motor does not spin free by hand remove the starter and see if it does move with the starter out.

You could end up throwing parts at a car with a locked up motor.


BTW dont listen to parts counter guys at a autozone or something like that.. no offense to any guys here that might work there but they are not techs.

 

Night Shifter

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Dec 24, 2005

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Dec 4, 2009

#47

• Dec 4, 2009

• #47

well i tried the whole jump start thing...hooked the car up...let it sit for about 10 minutes, started revving the other car, went to start mine...same noise...no start...i did notice that the theft light goes away if i leave the key in the on position so im gonna throw that possibility out..

i just dont understand why it would cut off once, then start...but now it wont start at all...agravating as hell..

anyway, my next step is to find a breaker bar...all i have around here it, lowes(dont have one, already checked), wal mart, and sears...and then theres auto parts stores like advanced, autozone, and napa...any ideas on where to look?

im trying to leave the starter for last because i know its going to be a nightmare to pull since i have lt's, its 31 degrees out and dropping, and i have a gravel driveway that sucks horribly to be on...

i have a haynes guide for the starter removal but any suggestions on the easiest way to remove the starter with lt's would be greatly arppreciated...i really dont want to have to mess with loosening the headers...should be hard to get them loose cause i have locking header bolts that are brand new but i just dont want to get into that kind of thing in 30* weather

 

S

soupnutz

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May 23, 2009

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Hampton Roads, VA

Dec 4, 2009

#48

• Dec 4, 2009

• #48

if you cant find a breaker bar use a regular ratchet with a piece of 1" pipe or something as a cheater bar.

As far as the starter, not sure how it is with the LT's but, two 12" extensions with a swivel on the end placed through the kmember from the front works for me.

 

Night Shifter

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Dec 4, 2009

#49

• Dec 4, 2009

• #49

cool thanks for the info on the starter...im pretty sure its gonna be a huge PITA to deal with...i hope to god i dont have to screw with it

 

tag4car

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Nov 21, 2005

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Birmingham AL

Dec 4, 2009

#50

• Dec 4, 2009

• #50

soupnutz said:

if you cant find a breaker bar use a regular ratchet with a piece of 1" pipe or something as a cheater bar.

As far as the starter, not sure how it is with the LT's but, two 12" extensions with a swivel on the end placed through the kmember from the front works for me.

Click to expand...

Posted via Mobile Device yup, although we have stanley breakers at wmart, i really want to see if it rotates soon

 

Night Shifter

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Dec 4, 2009

#51

• Dec 4, 2009

• #51

i guess ill be checking wal mart tomorrow then...not sure if ill get to touch the car though, i have a ton of crap to do..

i took off the belt earlier and tried to spin it with just a wratchet but since its so far down and akward to really try from i couldnt get it to even budge....or maybe im just a puss

 

Night Shifter

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Dec 5, 2009

#52

• Dec 5, 2009

• #52

deh...the weather kinda went to shat overnight so it looks like i wont be touching the car at least for today...supposed to start snowing again on monday so if tomorrw it clear i guess ill be shoveling the snow away from my car.... ill keep you all posted when i get tot try something...heres a little pic just for fun

 

Mike97gt

it doe snot

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Jan 26, 1999

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Dec 5, 2009

#53

• Dec 5, 2009

• #53

Night Shifter said:

i guess ill be checking wal mart tomorrow then...not sure if ill get to touch the car though, i have a ton of crap to do..

i took off the belt earlier and tried to spin it with just a wratchet but since its so far down and akward to really try from i couldnt get it to even budge....or maybe im just a puss

Click to expand...

if you cant spin the crank bolt with a ratchet that is not good.. it does not take a ton of effort to turn the crank.

Once the snow goes away get a breaker bar on it with a 18mm socket.. if it does not bulge take the starter out and hope like hell the starter is jammed..

 

S

Sanco213

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Oct 8, 2008

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Dec 6, 2009

#54

• Dec 6, 2009

• #54

just read the whole thread... sounds like a bad starter to me.. your charging circuit runs through the solenoid on your starter, and it sounds like the bendix on your starter is either seized up and wont engage, or engaged and seized up. charge your battery, and if that isnt it, then its definately your starter.

 

P

peepeeskillz

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Mar 23, 2009

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texas

Dec 7, 2009

#55

• Dec 7, 2009

• #55

Night Shifter said:

cool thanks for the info on the starter...im pretty sure its gonna be a huge PITA to deal with...i hope to god i dont have to screw with it

Click to expand...

yea starter is a huge PITA, but i dont think youll have to loosen your headers, i have bbk LTs(not sure about yours) and i put the starter in last with the header already in

 

Mike97gt

it doe snot

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Dec 7, 2009

#56

• Dec 7, 2009

• #56

Sanco213 said:

just read the whole thread... sounds like a bad starter to me.. your charging circuit runs through the solenoid on your starter, and it sounds like the bendix on your starter is either seized up and wont engage, or engaged and seized up. charge your battery, and if that isnt it, then its definately your starter.

Click to expand...

I hope it's the starter.. Since he can't turn the engine by hand it's quite possible that the starter is seized in the engaged position.


BUT I have heard that sound before in his clip.... when a motor is seized

 

Night Shifter

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Dec 24, 2005

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Dec 8, 2009

#57

• Dec 8, 2009

• #57

i got a breaker bar today...gonna try it out tomorrow and see what happens...if i cant turn the crank then it looks like ill be pulling the starter....i hope it turns but if not i really hope its the starter...if not, i have some phone calls to make about a warranty...

im kinda thinking its the starter since it shut off once and i was able to turn it back on...but with my luck who knows....

thanks for all the great info and help so far guys! ill be posting my findings tomorrow

 

Night Shifter

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Dec 24, 2005

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Dec 8, 2009

#58

• Dec 8, 2009

• #58

took the breaker bar to it and to my surprise it started moving...then i realized that the crankshaft wasnt moving, just the bolt was... so i tried again and either the crankshaft bolt wasnt tight enough or it still had some room to be tightened cause it was the only thing moving

it took a lot of force to get the bolt to move but after a couple tries i quit cause i didnt want to possibly overtighten the bolt or strip it...should i go out there and tighten it more to see if the crank moves or is that pretty much an indication that its not going to move?

i guess im gonna start on the starter tomorrow...probably gonna take me a while to get it off and crap with battling the weather/work....this sucks...

 

wmburns

SN Certified Technician

Aug 14, 2009

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Houston Texas

Dec 8, 2009

#59

• Dec 8, 2009

• #59

Don't want to hurt anyone's feelings, but are you sure it is being turned the correct direction (clock wise facing the front crank shaft).

The bolt should be very tight (the additonal 90 degrees of torque). Therefore, should not easily be moved (tighter or looser).

If you are indeed able to loosen/thighten the bolt without holding the motor, then the motor/starter is seized.

>>>Crank shaft pulley torque procedure
Install the washer and the bolt. Tighten the bolt in four stages.
Stage 1: Tighten the bolt to 90 Nm (66 lb-ft).
Stage 2: Loosen the bolt one full turn.
Stage 3: Tighten the bolt to 50 Nm (37 lb-ft).
Stage 4: Tighten the bolt an additional 90 degrees.

 

Night Shifter

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Dec 24, 2005

1,710

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Daytona

Dec 8, 2009

#60

• Dec 8, 2009

• #60

wmburns said:

Don't want to hurt anyone's feelings, but are you sure it is being turned the correct direction (clock wise facing the front crank shaft).

The bolt should be very tight (the additonal 90 degrees of torque). Therefore, should not easily be moved (tighter or looser).

If you are indeed able to loosen/thighten the bolt without holding the motor, then the motor/starter is seized.

>>>Crank shaft pulley torque procedure
Install the washer and the bolt. Tighten the bolt in four stages.
Stage 1: Tighten the bolt to 90 Nm (66 lb-ft).
Stage 2: Loosen the bolt one full turn.
Stage 3: Tighten the bolt to 50 Nm (37 lb-ft).
Stage 4: Tighten the bolt an additional 90 degrees.

Click to expand...

Posted via Mobile Device no hurt feelings here..ecspecially since you all are trying to help...and unfortunatly yes, i was going clockwise meaning something bad probably has happened...should i try to get it as tight as possible? oh and it wasnt easily turned..i had to put a ton of muscle into it..but i did notice that it was just the bolt moving..no crank movement...