Car Pulls With Clutch In... Hard To Shift

Gearbanger 101 · Jun 25, 2013

Another possibility is that the cable at the pedal end is in the wrong hook on the quadrant. Most quadrants have two hook eyes for the cable. One for an adjustable cable and one for the non adjustable.

You can see the two hooking points in the picture below. Try switching the cable to the other hooking point. My guess is that you're currently hooked in the one closest to the firewall and you need to be in the one closest to the driver.

billison · Jun 25, 2013

Ok. Did a quick recon . It has a adjustable cable, looks like it can be adjusted a lot more. I did not see a second claw on the quadrant.

So I'll try to adjust the cable at the transmission end. Once I have it off the fork I can check if the cable is bound up or not.

Side note the , transmission did NOT have the cover for the clutch fork. I'll want to replace this ASAP right?

billison · Jun 25, 2013

A few questions. Once I disconnect the cable from the clutch fork. The cable and pedal should move with basically no resistance right?

As far as adjusting the cable, I figure I'll put the firewall adjuster all the way in, adjust the cable at the fork till I get basic operation , then fine tune using the fw adjuster.

Should I lube the cable or do anything else while I'm messing with it?

Gearbanger 101 · Jun 25, 2013

Correct. The cable and pedal should move freely. Your adjustment procedure is correct and no, you shouldn't need to lube the cable. If it's binding in any way, with no resistance on it, you'll need to replace it.

As for the clutch fork cover.....it's not a 100% necessity. It keeps the crud and the water out of the area, but mine was missing when I bought my car and I've been driving it going on 3-seasons now without one. I bought a brand new one a year ago and it's still sitting in a box in my garage.

billison · Jun 25, 2013

Thanks!! I'll post tonight, should be a easy fix!

billison · Jun 25, 2013

Ok, had to adjust the lower side all the way in, and still had to adjust the fw adjuster about a inch ( less than half of what it was) to even get the cable flush at all. But it shifts much better now. I'll for sure be swapping the whole thing out soon

RangerJoe · Jun 25, 2013

As everyone has already mentioned, it sounds like your cable is stretching. Mine did this a few years ago. Seemed like I had to readjust it every month or so. Finally broke down and bought a new FRPP one. Man, what a difference. The old one was definitely messed up. FYI, when the cable is new, it should slide VERY easily inside its rubber sheathing. I had to pull hard to pull the cable through my old one. The new one, is would just slide back and forth without problem.

Joe

billison · Jun 25, 2013

Yup, that's what I figured. Plus the lock nut was missing from the cable. I'll be swapping for the mm kit before long

89stang1 · Jun 26, 2013

billison said:
Yup, that's what I figured. Plus the lock nut was missing from the cable. I'll be swapping for the mm kit before long

mm kits are good but if u wanna save some money pick up a 2 hook aluminum quad and get this cluth cable http://www.latemodelrestoration.com...ang-Ford-Racing-Clutch-Cable-With-Clutch-Fork and throw the adjustable cable in the garbage and never see another!. When you get the new cable just lop off the rubber thing that butts your aluminum firewall adjuster make sure the cable goes thru the whole in firewall cleanly without binding many times this is where they rub then break. You can keep the clutch fork as a souvenir or use it if needed, im running this setup and i have not made one clutch adjustment in over two years!

v8only · Jun 30, 2013

dont buy anything...dual or triple hook quadrants are a scam..everthing is manufactored to stock tolerances..hooks in different locations only mess up pedal height and feel...

20$ oem autozone non adjustable cable..lifetime warranty and if routed properly itll last years..everything else u have is fine..oem ford cable is best..but i run autozone ones without issues

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

TOOLOW91 · Jul 1, 2013

v8only said:
dont buy anything...dual or triple hook quadrants are a scam..everthing is manufactored to stock tolerances..hooks in different locations only mess up pedal height and feel...

20$ oem autozone non adjustable cable..lifetime warranty and if routed properly itll last years..everything else u have is fine..oem ford cable is best..but i run autozone ones without issues

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

Hence the max MOTORSPORTS cable ..... made by the same People who made the original . no adjustment on the fork , solid quadrant no triple hook bull and the fire wall adjuster ....pedal is effortless

Sent from my iPhone using my fingers

v8only · Jul 1, 2013

nm

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

billison · Jul 1, 2013

Yup^ I'll be getting the mm kit.

Gearbanger 101 · Jul 1, 2013

v8only said:
dont buy anything...dual or triple hook quadrants are a scam..everthing is manufactored to stock tolerances..hooks in different locations only mess up pedal height and feel...

Can't speak for the triple quadrant hooks, but the dual quadrant hooks are not "a scam". Their function is actually the exact opposite of what you stated. The second hook is designed to allow the pedal to remain in the stock location, when using an adjustable cable. If you are using a non adjustable cable, then you use the stock quadrant hook location. If someone is getting different pedal height and feel from using one, they're not utilizing it properly and have their cable in in the wrong hook location. Most of the dual hook quadrants have a mechanical advantage over the stock as well for quicker pedal release.

My Steeda quadrant is silky smooth and tough as nails compared to the spongy, flexi stock plastic, two piece set up.

billison · Jul 1, 2013

I think the 3 hook ones are only 3 hook because steeda has a copy right on the 2.

v8only · Jul 1, 2013

using a different hook will still pivot the pedal to a different place than stock...having dual quadrants or more prevents the hook from being in the oem location..ive been through this for over a decade..using anything other than an oem style cable and single hook quadrant can and will change the pedal height and feel..nearly always for the worse

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

Gearbanger 101 · Jul 1, 2013

v8only said:
using a different hook will still pivot the pedal to a different place than stock...having dual quadrants or more prevents the hook from being in the oem location..ive been through this for over a decade..using anything other than an oem style cable and single hook quadrant can and will change the pedal height and feel..nearly always for the worse

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

The pivot point changes are miniscule. You're only adding length to the quadrant with the second hook spot to compensate for the adjustable cables length, nothing more. With a non adjustable cable, placed in the proper hook location, the changes in height are insignificant. As stated, the trade off for the added length is slightly more pedal effort, but better mechanical advantage.

If there is a change in pedal height, my left foot sure hasn't noticed it, but I have noticed quicker engagements during speed shifting!

v8only · Jul 1, 2013

back when I was using a triple hook quadrant, the pedal feel was just garbage.. when you had the clutch adjusted so that it grabbed at the proper point, it brought the pedal up way too high. if I loosened up on the clutch adjustment..then there was a whole Ton of slack up top. I was able to duplicate this many times with different quadrants..and each time the problem always went away when I was duplicating an OEM setup..with a single hook quadrant and an oem non adjustable clutch cable..that's just my experiences and I have done a few dozen setups over the years.. however everybody's cars different and everybody will have slightly different results

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

Car Pulls With Clutch In... Hard To Shift

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