Car Runs Great but have problems

[mat82284]

Ok my car seems to run better and faster than is has before im not complaining on that part but the problems im having are listed below

1. when car is cold and i try to start it it takes about 4 starts before it will allow me to even rev it up past 1000rpms also when its cold it makes a poping sound from the engine bay?

2. i have exhaust leaks from my header gaskets could this cause the pop sound?

3. i spilled oil on my headers a wile back and it caught on fire and started to melt my oxygen sensor wireing but it looks good. also my check engine light is on and has always been one since ive noticed (but i dont have cats on my x-pipe so im guessing that this is the reason its on).

4. i am reading how to do the eec iv test but i noticed it looks easy except i only see 1 eec test unit and its on the drivers side in a small box that doesnt look like that adapter in the picture (below link) if thats not it where else could it be on a 1992 hatchback?
http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html#TSTS

5. i think my car is running rich because i can smell gas at the end of my pipes or could this be that im running no cats and running 91 octane gas which could cause the smell?

 

[HISSIN50]

how does yours look different? if you got some sort of box with a STI trigger, you should be good to go. i know my sis has a 95 probe (MX6) and the self test connector is totally weird - there is an adapter on it. so i cant plug in my tester. i tell her to have AZ pull codes (they do).
i would check the lambda values - the voltage they put out is so minute, a little corrosion or resistance can make a huge difference.

good luck.

 

[jrichker]

From your description of gas smell and melted wiring for the O2 sensor, there is a high probability that one or both O2 sensors are toast.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.

Failing O2 sensors will set code 41 or 91.

 

[88gtvertboy]

rough running stang

First of all for your cold start problem check your values on your ect sensor. Now you not having cats will not set a check engine light. I would go back and check your O2 wiring because that could cause you to run rich as well as you ect sensor could also cause it to run rich if the values are not correct to the computer. As far as your diagnostic connector it should be located in the engine compartment on the drivers side. Hope this helps you out.....