Car Wont Crank

If you apply the e-brake and then remove the slide-on connector (the thin wire at 12 o'clock on the solenoid) and touch it to the battery lug of the solenoid, does the engine crank over? (Be real careful since this bypasses the safety features in the starter circuit).

If not, does jumping the two big lugs on the solenoid start the car?

If not A but B, that suggests a solenoid issue.

Do you have sufficient motor grounding?

Random thoughts. Good luck.

If jumping the two big lugs did nothing, the little one wont be able to do anything.

Double check battery charge, cable connections and the ground you're going to do. You can use jumper cable to parallel existing cables for quick diagnostics (including the grounds).

Good luck.

A measure of continuity is not a great test to ensure one has sufficient grounding for the application (such as your starter). A paperclip will ohm out wonderfully but do nothing to help the starter, via the motor, achieve proper grounding. As the cables break down internally, they cant carry the load they once did.

What buzzing noise does the car make while cranking? Mine dont buzz - they whir as the starter turns the motor over. I dont understand the noise you're describing.

Good luck.

Ohming out a ground is not the best way to find out how good they are. The amount of resistance that will diasble a starter is less than the resistance of the test leads used to connect it to the ohmmeter.

A voltmeter is handy if you are familiar with how to use it to find bad connections. Measure the voltage drop across a connection while it is under load: more than .5 volts across a connection indicates a problem.
See http://www.fluke.com/application_notes/automotive/circuit.asp?AGID=1&SID=103 for help


Here's a checklist:

Since some of the tests will bypass the safety interlocks, make sure that the car is in neutral and the parking brake is set. Becoming a pancake isn’t part of the repair process…

Check battery, terminal connections, ground, starter relay switch (also known as solenoid) and starter in that order.


1.) Will the car start if it is jumped? Then clean battery terminals and check battery.

2.) Check the battery to engine block ground, and the ground behind the engine to the firewall.

3.) Jump the big terminals on the starter relay next to the battery with a screwdriver - watch out for the sparks! If the engine cranks, the starter and power wiring is good. The starter relay is also known as a starter solenoid.

4.) Then pull the small push on connector (red wire) off the starter relay (Looks like it is stuck on a screw). Then jump between the screw and the terminal that is connected to the battery. If it starts, the relay is good and your problem is in the rest of the circuit.

5.) Remember to check the ignition switch, neutral safety switch on auto trans and the clutch safety switch on manual trans cars. If they are good, then you have wiring problems. See http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80195963.gif for 88-90 year cars .OR see http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80195964.gif for 91-93 year cars. See http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/1d/db/3c/0900823d801ddb3c.jsp for 94-95 model cars.

6.) The starter may be hung, loosen up the bolts that hold it on, and give it a good whack with a big hammer. Tighten up the bolts and try again.

7.) If that doesn't work, use a jumper cable from the positive lead on the battery direct to the starter post where the big wire from the relay connects. If it cranks then, it is the power wire from the relay gone bad. This will be hard to do, since there isn't much room to do it.

8.) Pull the starter and take it to Autozone or Pep Boys and have them test it. Starter fails test, then replace it. If you got this far, the starter is probably bad.

Sounds like a starter or you might want to check the flywheel to make sure no teeth are missing!