Car wont Start - No Cranking

[UpRise_5.0]

Hi,

I did do a search first

Just want to make sure.

Anyways, I just did a Clutch and Bellhousing swap on my 1989 5.0.

The car had been sitting with the Battery disconnected for about 3-4 months.

After getting it all back together, I went to start it and nothing, and I mean nothing, the interior lights and guages worked, yet the car wasnt even cranking at all.

So I thought battery must be dead, so I tried to jump it and nothing. So I then charged the battery and jumped again, and nothing, so then charged over night on a light charge and again nothing.

I cleaned the terminals buts thats about it so far.

Could the battery be so dead, that the car inst cranking at all?

Or is it more likely the relay,soleniod,starter,etc..??

Thanks

 

[ss93cobra]

Did you remember to hook the starter back up after you swapped the bellhousing? Dumb question I know, but we've all been there....it's 3:00 in the morning...just another hour and you'll be totally done...... you know?

 

[HISSIN50]

do the interior gauges and stuff work? can you turn on the headlights and see anything?
i would check the solenoid (trigger wire) and as SS said above, is the hot wire to the starter hooked up?

 

[bunnk]

I dont know if this will help but I will give it a shot. The same thing happened to me on my 83' 5.0 Mustang. All the lights turned on and everything but there wasn't any turning over at all! What the problem was for me was my shifter wasn't pushed in properly (automatic tranny) because something in the shifter housing wasn't set right. Try to jiggle the shifter and push it in and out a couple times. If this doesn't work than I am at a loss...

 

[TheUser]

Might be be a bad ground. Try this: Take a set of jumper cables and hook one neg. side to Neg(-) battery cable and take the other neg side and ground it on your alt bracket and see if it'll crank. If you have a voltometer, you could check the voltage that the battery is holding should be around 12.5v w/ car off. Jrichker has some good posts about this subject, I'd search for his name in the advanced search option and scope some of that stuff out.

 

[jrichker]

As requested...

Here's a checklist:

Check battery, terminal connections, ground, starter relay switch (also known as solenoid) and starter in that order.

A voltmeter is handy if you are familiar with how to use it to find bad connections. Measure the voltage drop across a connection: more than .5 volts across a connection indicates a problem.

1.) Will the car start if it is jumped? Then clean battery terminals and check battery.

2.) Check the battery to engine block ground, and the ground behind the engine to the firewall.

3.) Then pull the small push on connector (red wire) off the starter relay (Looks like it is stuck on a screw) and jump it to the terminal that is connected to the battery. If it starts, the relay is good and your problem is in the rest of the circuit.

4.) Remember to check the ignition switch, neutral safety switch on auto trans and the clutch safety switch on manual trans cars. If they are good, then the relay is bad. See http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80195963.gif for 88-90 year cars

5.) Jump the big terminals on the starter relay next to the battery with a screwdriver - watch out for the sparks! If the engine cranks, the starter and power wiring is good. The starter relay is also known as a starter solenoid.

6.) The starter may be hung, loosen up the bolts that hold it on, and give it a good whack with a big hammer. Tighten up the bolts and try again.

7.) If that doesn't work, use a jumper cable from the positive lead on the battery direct to the starter post where the big wire from the relay connects. If it cranks then, it is the power wire from the relay gone bad. This will be hard to do, since there isn't much room to do it.

8.) Pull the starter and take it to Autozone or Pep Boys and have them test it. Starter fails test, then replace it. If you got this far, the starter is probably bad.

 

[UpRise_5.0]

Yes the interior light, my guages, etc.. are all bright.

No the car will not start or crank at all even with a jump.

Also after I try to start it and have the key fully turned the AMP light is still there.

Ill try your list Jrichker.

Thanks

 

[cobraii74x]

Same thing happened to me.. the ground to the block wasnt gettin a good connection... hope this helps

 

[UpRise_5.0]

Now how exactly do you know if the clutch saftey switch isnt working.

Because I also did a Adjustable Cable/Quadrant swap, and my Dad accidently took the clip off th end of the plunger that goes in when you push the clutch down?

Could he have possibly put it back on wrong? Does the clip have anything to do with it?

Thanks

 

[sea ya]

what i seen on mine was jus what your saying
mine was the ECM coolent temp. sending unit
would crank& run cold but would'nt start at all
when engine temp was up to normal,had to wait till it cooled
down b 4 it would start again... i think it was like
$26-30 ...did it 4 me.good luck{','} chuck

 

[HISSIN50]

Now how exactly do you know if the clutch saftey switch isnt working.

Because I also did a Adjustable Cable/Quadrant swap, and my Dad accidently took the clip off th end of the plunger that goes in when you push the clutch down?


Thanks

im not sure about what you are talkin about exactly.....?
the neutral safety switch is on the back of the clutch pedal 'arm.'

it has a white 'plunger' which gets compressed when the clutch is pressed in, thus allowing the car to start.
im not sure if this is what you are talkin about or not.....