Car wont start

Slo 5.0

Member
Apr 6, 2005
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16
St. Louis
After putting my wires into the fender wells I cant get the car to start. I have no spark at the coil until after I let go of the key (after cranking let go of the key) then it will spark 2 times very quickly. I dont know what to do and im worried that i cant fix it.:shock: Can anyone give me some ideas on what to try to do to fix it? Thanks
 
Go over all the wires that you touched, esp those lengthened. On the surface, checking the ignition switch and/or TFI for power to create spark while cranking would be where I start...........

Good luck.
 
See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif

Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds
IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif


Notice the #33 white/pink wire that becomes a red/lt blue wire that branhes off to the TFI. If that wire isn't working, the TFI will not get the extra power it needs during cranking.

Here is another diagram...
attachment.php
 
I checked the two wires going to the coil with a multimeter and on the red/blue one it said 001 and for the tan/yellow wire it was at 643. Im not sure but I dont think that is a good thing, what do I need to do?
 
The wire on the coil is not the problem. Go back and read the diagram: you'll
notice that there is a red/blue wire from the starter circuit that supplies power to
the TFI while cranking. Somewhere in the wiring, that feed wire from the starter
circuit to the TFI has been disconnected or damaged.

Notice the wiires on the TFI module in the next diagram. The red/blue one is the
one you want to check

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif

Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds

88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif


See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2
Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif
 

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  • 88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif
    88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif
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Im not sure if I checked it right because ive never done this kind of stuff before but i disconnected the TFI connector and pulled out the red clip and stuck the positive wire from the tester in next to the red/blue wire and grounded it to a good ground. I got inside the car and turned the key forward and the meter said -1.

I dont know if -1 is good or bad so i need a little more help.
Thanks for all the help so far.
 
A reading of -1 either means you reversed the meter leads or you need to look more closely at the meter setup. The red/blue wire on the TFI is supposed to read 12 volts when you turn the key to the Start position.

Step 1.) Find the instruction book that came with your Multimeter. Read it and familiarize yourself with how it works and how use it. If you lost the book or didn’t get one with it, do a Google search on the web to find the manufacturer’s web site & download a copy of the manual.

Step 2. ) Make sure that you know what test lead plugs into which jacks on the Multimeter. There are usually several different jacks on most Multimeters, and they have different functions. Make sure that your battery(s) in the Multimeter are good: if you have any doubts, replace the battery(s).

Step 3.) Once you are sure that the Multimeter is functional and you have the leads plugged into the jacks for Ohms ( the upside down “U” symbol), do some simple measurements to make sure that you know how to use it correctly. Set the switch to the lowest range and touch the leads together: you should not see “nothing” but you should see 1.0-0.3 ohms. Measure a 60 watt light bulb: cold it will measure about 17.5 Ohms. It you measure it while it is hot, the reading will be greater.

Step 4.) Make several test measurements using the ohms function and the DC volts function. Remember all resistance measurements must be done with the power off the circuit. This avoids false readings and possible damage to the ohmmeter.. Repeat steps 3 & 4 until you are sure that you can do it without making any mistakes.

Step 5.) Then see http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/1d/db/3c/0900823d801ddb3c.jsp and carefully study ALL the information under the Heading Chassis Electrical, Basic Electricity – Understanding & Troubleshooting
 
i just cant figure this stuff out. I tried everything you said to do and it all seems ok. I know Im doing something wrong because I didnt find the problem yet. I called MPS and it is $300 for a new harness and a ford dealer around here said it would cost about $700 to find the problem and fix it. Im screwed! might have to sell the car
 
Slo 5.0 said:
Im not sure if it would work, but if I bought a new ignition system such as the Accel 300+, or the MSD 6AL would my car start again?
Aftermarket ignitions are kind of like amplifiers - they need a good foundation under them (the stock ignition components - TFI and PIP) to work well. In other words, an aftermarket ignition wouldnt be the best way to circumvent an issue.

Good luck.