I can't seem to find the bushings that I need. I am looking for new A-arm bushings. Can anyone find what I'm looking for. I've never replaced them and don't even really know what I am looking for. Thanks.
The UCA bushings are metal and screw onto the shaft that bolts to the tower. These are pretty darn common, and should be included in most any complete rebuild kit. My recommendation is that if you're gonna do the upper arm bushings, do it all. It ends up only being a little more work, and it will save you money in the long run (if only the cost of getting an alignment again later). Also, look for a complete kit from any place from Mustangs Plus (which I hate) to American Pony to Laurel Mountain (which I like) to NPD (which I love). Also look into places like PST. When I did my budget rebuild on my Mach in the early '90s, I bought PST's polygraphite bushing kit for $189 and only had to get tie rod ends and a new idler arm from NAPA (probalby another $80 or so). Just a thought...
Hey bro, Im sure you have gave that car a good beating over the last couple years, and dont lie and say you havent lol. I just turned 18 in may and have a WHOLE NEW perspective on the way "hard driving" is. I beat the hell outta my stang and ill admit i was young and stupid. Just last month i had to put a new engine and trans in. (which is why your actions create consequences) It together costed me allmost 1200 bucks (but i decided to get a whole new block and trans that i scooped up for 800 bucks ) so that way i can build up the spare motor to my liking WHILE still being able to drive the car, before i started driving the car had new tie-rods and alot of new front end parts........now they all need replacing and i dont know HOW im going to afford it.... I just got a new intake (on the new motor and its leaking out of the rear and front, These cars are a pain and a joy to work with at the same time, becasue when she OR he is runnign good the looks on people faces are pricless....just DONT get rid of it, MOST of all remember this, cosmetic work shoudl be done last IMO, getting the mechanical querks out of your baby should be number one.
blakes idea about the taillights is an excellent one
and i like the car how it is for the most part
i hate how everyone on this forum seems to want everyone to have the same looking car... im almost sick of TT2's but when i was 17 that was the wheel i wanted the most
i bet its your intake thats leaking - from your lowered scoop (which i think looks good) i can tell you changed intakes (good choice)
well, my intake had blown the front seal in the passenger side corner and it would run down to the driverside timing cover and made it look like the distributor was leaking
my friend who is the assistant manager at the shop of toyota came over, we borrowed the toyota formagasket stuff and left the front and rear seals of the intake - no leaks
i had forgot my oil pan was blue
the tranny sounds like your just going to bite the bullit and have it rebuilt
with the battery - make sure you have no open wires (metal) and make sure the alternator is connected correctly; a few weeks ago i got to looking at my wiring, and its terrible... the open metal from the wires grounds out and drains the battery
new gas tanks arent too expensive - and if your tank is original its probably safer to replace it anyway because they can build up rust
just keep going - weve all been where your at
sometimes you just need to take a short break, or have a friend help which can motivate you - two heads are better than one
i was getting depressed about my wiring a few weeks ago, my brother came over and we ended up fixing the problems... his willingness to work kept me going and when we started to see daylight on the project it was really nice
another idea with the tranny - check your shifter linkage and kickdown linkage
ooooh - also the bands
get under your car and look to see if any studs have backed out of your tranny
theres one on each side - one controlls reverse and one controlls second
i thought i had busted my tranny, but those bands had just backed out
now i just thought id throw in what i would do
#1 check tranny linkage and bands
#2 check intake manifold for leak
#3 check wiring
#4 fix gas tank
#5 fix suspension sqeak
#6 the shelby taillights
#7 i might change the sticker on your front fender two a 302 badge (like the 289 ones)
#8 look into a carb with vacuum secondaries (im replacing my edel with a demon) ill let you know how it turns out (should know by wednesday at the latest)
this is just my humble opinion - its your car and you should do what YOU want
but i think your real close
if you start getting rid of your stuff pm me...
Everytime I get a little bored with my car (hardly ever), I just wash and wax it and I get all charged up again and ready for a cruise. I know what you mean about the repairs. I have a bunch of repairs all lined up to do, someday, in the meantime, I just enjoy it as much as possible. Don't go cheap on the major repairs, as you'll probably regret it down the road, literally.
Felt the same way a few short months ago when my diveshaft broke and took out damn near everything. Now you have to spend money to fix...not modify, never fun. Take a step back my man. And only try to look at one problem at a time. It tends to get very overwhelming quick when you look at the whole picture. Put your faith in the force my son. It'll pass.
I had the alternator checked today and it showed up as junk. It's the second one we bought and so far neither one of them have worked. The guy at the parts store told us to make sure we have a ground strap running from the block to the body of the car. He said if you don't, sometimes it will cause the alternator to overcharge and will ruin it. So, when I get the new alternator I will also put on this ground wire and see what I come up with. Hopefully the battery will stop going dead and my electrical problems will stop.
I'm glad I read this thread, as I've been having somewhat similar thoughts. When you're cruising around in your perfectly tuned stang, it's the best thing in the world. But when you're sitting in traffic in 95 degree heat without a/c, worrying about how long your car is gonna last before it overheats again, then it's not so fun.
However: This summer I've been using my dad's Nissan Maxima while he's been out of town (great car btw). Anyway my stang is in his garage and I go to visit it every week or two, and drive it around a little. It's like a whole new car! I used to get bored of the look sometimes, and think of things I should do to change it. Now when I go look at it after not seeing it for two weeks, I can honestly say that classic mustangs are one of the best shapes ever used for a car. It feels faster and louder than I remembered, and people sure do stare. If you have a situation where you could not see the car for a while then go see it later, maybe that would help.
I've been wondering how long I can hold onto this car, as I'm about to graduate college (well, 2 years). I can either tough it out or find something reliable so I don't get ****ed over one day when I need to get somewhere important. I know it's gonna happen sooner or later (again!). It definitely helps to have people urge you on and tell you to stick with it.
Back to the topic, your car has a beautiful blue color and the black stripes go nicely. I have a chin spoiler too and like it.. but I agree with you on the spoiler. Those rims you have look real nice though.. maybe some wider tires with the same style rims if you could trade someone, I dunno.. I'm thinking of getting wider rims myself, but I don't think they make mine anymore and I'm not sure how wide would fit on a 68 w/o modification anyway.
Good luck with the car, tough it out! I can't wait for a "real" job so I can do some big mods that I really would like to do... well, what am I saying - of course I can wait for a real job!
Electrical gremlins are the worst, IMO. Is the battery going dead by just sitting overnight, or after driving it for awhile? If the car drives good during the day and dies overnight, something in the electrical circuit is draining the battery while it sits idle. The alternator should be able to allow you to drive with a weak battery, BUT, a bad battery could even not allow your car to run at all. There are so many possibilitie to electrical problems. A voltmeter and a hydrometer are really good tools to have, although becareful when using the hydrometer to measure the cells of the battery, that acid is very dangerous. Good luck.
Stock lights with some fog lights installed. Pioneer CD player/head unit with two fairly small speakers in the back. There is nothing on this car that draws enough juice to kill the alternator. Besides, the last one tested bad so I am getting another one for free.
Alright, how much would one of you give me for this pile?
Put on the new alternator and ground strap (alternator checked GOOD before it left the store, btw). Nothing. Everything is hooked up correctly, checked it OVER and OVER. ALT light is on and the alternator is not charging. Yep, I'm sick of it!
SpeedDemon when the alternator goes it usually takes the voltage regulator with it also. So replace both at the same time. That's how it always seems to work in my experiance with early stangs. BTW how much do you want for the car?
What kind of voltage are you getting at the battery terminals with the engine off and with it running? First check at the battery terminal with the engine running, you should get about 13-14 VDC, if not, check at the solenoid end of the battery cable. If you get 13-14 VDC there, then the positive battery cable is your culprit.