caster/camber

You can't really do it accurately at home.
Take the car to an alignment shop.
If the car is not lowered, they will be able to get it adjusted properly with the stock plates.
If it is lowered, there is still a chance the can get a good alignment, it's just not a sure thing that they can.

Have you compared your camber settings?

I play around with home alignments. I use a straight edge on the wheel, with a level against the straight edge (the straight edge acts as a stand-off for my level). Then I measure the distance from the leveled straight edge to the top of the rim (the top of the straight edge would have a distance from the wheel of 1/4-1/2" for instance). Then trig it to get the angle. Or just compare sides, even if you dont wanna do the trig. In general, you'll have all the caster you can get, and as much positive camber as you can get, with a lowered car and stock plates.

If that all looks equal, then I would consider just letting a shop check the alignment (getting your reference for the back wheels is a PITA) and set the toe.

While under there, be sure to yank on the wheel (be safe and al that crap) to see if you have something like tie rod play. When under way, the wheel would toe out, wearing the inner edge (it sounds like you considered this but it's worth mentioning). Also note the condition of the top strut bushings. If one is broken, that can cause camber issues under load.

Random ramblings.
Good luck.

let a shop look at it. they computers are better than your eye. (but maybe not HISSIN's)

old_blue said:

let a shop look at it. they computers are better than your eye. (but maybe not HISSIN's)

Click to expand...

There's no doubt that an alignment rack is the way to go. The thing that stood out to me here is that something sounds to be quite amiss. It should not take much precision to see if one side is off from the other. This might save the hassle of having an alignment check and follow-up alignment, or two alignments (even if one is warrantied). It takes a couple of mins to check camber and toe.

In reality no matter what happens, if a car has uneven tire wear in the front, it has to go in for an alignment, even if it is something minor, the alignment won't be perfect after the part is repaired.

Not to thread jack but my driver side tire always seems to go in at the top more than the passenger and i have a slight pull to the right, i have the car lowered but not much and was trying to get away with no c/c plates but will the plates fix the pull and different (camber, caster not sure which is which always get them confused) between sides?

dp88 said:

Not to thread jack but my driver side tire always seems to go in at the top more than the passenger and i have a slight pull to the right, i have the car lowered but not much and was trying to get away with no c/c plates but will the plates fix the pull and different (camber, caster not sure which is which always get them confused) between sides?

Click to expand...

caster is front to back, camber is left to right.

Any alignment shop will tell you if they can get the specs good enough.
CC plates are a worthy mod. They allow for more positive caster which helps the car keep straight when driving in ruts in the road.
It's cheaper to buy CC plates now, than it is to keep buying front tires.

Ive had it alligned twice and replace ball joints, and the tie rod ends look to be fine....so i guess its time for the plates.