CCRM Or The PCM?

S

SN95Oh

New Member
Oct 7, 2003
91
0
0
Oklahoma
#1
Ok Heres the story.
I installed the a new trickflow intake the other day. And It ran good For about an hour. And then it started sputtering and would stall sometimes at idle. So I checked for intake/vacuum leaks. I did not see a one. So I tried installing a new fuel pump (155llph BBK) And it did not fix a thing... So a couple of days later my car broke down a couple cities away from my house. So I just took it to a machinic across the street. He got it running. He said it was the fuel level sensor... But Does that have anything to do with It not running? Is that tied in with the computer? I was like Wtf... It costed me 230 total with parts. I was mad as H3ll, But oh well at least it runs. But I still Had the problem with the sputtering and stalling. And now the cooling fan will not come on by itself... I had to run a wire from the accessory to the fan so the car wouldn't overheat. And I tried running a hot wire to the fuel pump thinking it might help. But no... I wouldn't think it would be a relay would it? Because if the relay went out wouldn't the car not run at all? That is what people told me "If the fuel pump relay was bad the car would not run at all." When I to check the computer codes before the fan stopped working it gave me a code like "Primary fuel pump relay circuit fault" and the a week later it said "Seconday fuel pump circuit fault" and now after the fan stopped working it says something like ".... Out of Range" I forgot the first part... But the fuel pump primes when I turn the key... The cooling fan will not come on even if I turn the a/c on... When I test the codes the cooling fan comes on normally through the speeds, and the fuel pump primes... I dont know guys... The car has been running like a v6 "no offence to the v6 stangers" Maybe the CCRM or the PCM (This is the computer inside the passenger kick panel right" Please help anyone...
 
#2
i personally dont think its the ccrm (houses the 5 relays). i too have been having some fuel problems that gave the 556 code and im trying to find if it is a ground problem or not. my battery gave out on me a few days ago for no reason and it really has never done that before. im hoping it has nothign to do with the ground draining power.

i was told the fuel pump relay really only gives out or is working but there are some cases where it could not be "working properly" as in there is power going through sometimes (usually only happens when you hit a bump or something like that). i guess i really dont have an answer for you but here is some info my buddy gave to me to check the pcm and ccrm if there is something wrong.


Do this:

Start the engine and let it idle. While it's idling, grab and jiggle the harness between the ECM and the CCRM. If the engine stumbles at all, you've got a short in the wire going to pin 22. If it runs fine, gently rap the handle of a large screwdriver against the CCRM. If this causes a stumble, replace the CCRM. If everything is still fine, replace the fuel pump relay.



*insert* i dont think he understood about our fuel pump relay being part of the ccrm so just forget that part....he then wrote this after i tried all that*



First though, do what I outlined above, including replacing the fuel pump relay if jiggling the harness doesn't cause a stumble. If, after doing all that, and replacing the fuel pump relay, you still have a problem, then do the following four steps...

1) With Key OFF, disconnect the CCRM, and measure the resistance of CCRM between pins 18 and 24.

It should be between 65 and 120 ohms. If it's not, replace the CCRM. If it is, then you need to check the continuity of the fuel pump circuit....

2) With Key OFF, and CCRM disconnected, disconnect the ECM at the 60 pin connector. Measure the resistance between pin 22 at the 60 pin connector, and pin 18 at the CCRM harness connector.

The resistance should be less than 5 ohms. If it's not, there's an open in the wire between those two pins, and you must find and repair it. If the resistance is less than 5 ohms, you need to check the fuel pump circuit for a short to power...

3) With the CCRM disconnected, and the ECM disconnected, turn the key ON, and measure the voltage between the negative battery post, and pin 22 in the 60 pin harness connector.

The voltage should be less than 1 volt. If it's not, the wire that goes to the 22 pin is shorted to power somewhere, and you need to find and fix it. If the voltage is less than 1 volt, then you need to check the fuel pump circuit for a short to ground...

4) With the CCRM disconnected, and the ECM disconnected, and the key OFF, measure the resistance between pin 22 and the negative battery post. The resistance should be greater than 10k ohms. If it isn't, the wire that goes to pin 22 is shorted to ground somewhere, and you must find and repair it. If the resistance is greater than 10k ohms, the ECM is bad, and must be replaced.






*he is a very knowledgable guy but none of it really solved my problem (which has recently seemed to go away lol but try all that and see what you get....you can get the ccrm diagram from the FAQ on top of the first page of this forum and you gotta look up the pcm diagram (very simple, if you need help ill look for you too). hope you figure it out man*
 
#5
CCRM Location?

Still can't find my CCRM. The only coolant overflow bottle that I have on my car has a body mounted bracket at the bottom with a slot in it for the bottle to sit in. The top of the bottle is attached to the fan shroud. The only electrical components (other than sensors) under hood that I can find are the Power Distribution Box (Half way down the LH Shotgun in front of the shock tower) and the ABS HCU (Front right corner of the engine compartment near the bottom of the Rad Support).

Any guesses as to where my CCRM would be? I have a '94 convertible if that matters...

Thanks.
 
#8
CCRM - Where are you???

Somebody did move the CCRM to the RH fender under the airbox. I removed the airbox and replaced it with a K&N some time ago and realized just now that the wire mesh on the K&N rubbed through the Yellow pin 10 and Green w/ Orange pin 21. I fixed the problem. I will let you know if the code 556 goes away...

Thanks.

John
 
#11
SN95Oh said:
Ok Heres the story.
I installed the a new trickflow intake the other day. And It ran good For about an hour. And then it started sputtering and would stall sometimes at idle. So I checked for intake/vacuum leaks. I did not see a one. So I tried installing a new fuel pump (155llph BBK) And it did not fix a thing... So a couple of days later my car broke down a couple cities away from my house. So I just took it to a machinic across the street. He got it running. He said it was the fuel level sensor... But Does that have anything to do with It not running? Is that tied in with the computer? I was like Wtf... It costed me 230 total with parts. I was mad as H3ll, But oh well at least it runs. But I still Had the problem with the sputtering and stalling. And now the cooling fan will not come on by itself... I had to run a wire from the accessory to the fan so the car wouldn't overheat. And I tried running a hot wire to the fuel pump thinking it might help. But no... I wouldn't think it would be a relay would it? Because if the relay went out wouldn't the car not run at all? That is what people told me "If the fuel pump relay was bad the car would not run at all." When I to check the computer codes before the fan stopped working it gave me a code like "Primary fuel pump relay circuit fault" and the a week later it said "Seconday fuel pump circuit fault" and now after the fan stopped working it says something like ".... Out of Range" I forgot the first part... But the fuel pump primes when I turn the key... The cooling fan will not come on even if I turn the a/c on... When I test the codes the cooling fan comes on normally through the speeds, and the fuel pump primes... I dont know guys... The car has been running like a v6 "no offence to the v6 stangers" Maybe the CCRM or the PCM (This is the computer inside the passenger kick panel right" Please help anyone...
Click to expand...
Go to junkyard, and get another CCRM, open it and replace, solder a new fuel pump relay, cost less than $5, done that, works perfect =), also check, replace crank sensor!!
 
#12
arctic beast said:
Go to junkyard, and get another CCRM, open it and replace, solder a new fuel pump relay, cost less than $5, done that, works perfect =), also check, replace crank sensor!!
Click to expand...
Let me help you out, in the upper left corner of the post there is a date stamp, in this case 15 years old. I doubt he is still try'n to fix it.
 
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