I'm about to install my FAYS2 Watts Link. The instructions keep telling me to "center the axle" if upon removal of the panhard rod and brace the back goes out of alignment.
Now, measure the distance from each wheel to the outer edge of the body. Use a plumb bob taped to the top center of the wheel opening. If you don’t have a plumb bob, it is very easy to make one.
All you need is a string and a weight. Tie the weight to one end of the string. Hang the other end on the wheel well with tape. Make sure the weight is off of the ground, and not touching anything.
Measure from the edge of the rim to the plumb bob string. Compare the measurements for each side.
the axle moves, not the car. i imagine that the watts would be the same. may have to muscle/pry the rear over a bit to align the holes for the watts. when i did my gears, i removed the panhard and had to pry the axle back into position to install the bolts.
I'm concerned that the instruction call for the drilling of the bolt holes that go to the passenger side when I'm pretty sure it would be easier after installing everything to widen the hole that go to the panhard brace on the chassis.
Needless to say it's not done. I gotta take a day off for work. I still gotta drill and I have to install the axle braces.
on the plus side I flipped the control arm in a jif with the help of a buddy and the roush rear lowering springs leveled the car real nicely.
One more thing where do you pry the axle to get it in line? I'm confused since now the car is sitting without a panhard bar and is slightly off.
i dont remember exactly where i did it, but i took a long prybar and ran it straight up to the wheel arch on the frame rail. i put a 1x4 to spread out the pressure and not to leave an indentation on the rail. i may have used the shock mounting bracket on the axle. it does not take much pressure, just the right leverage thats hard to get with your hands.