Changing All Seals And Gaskets. Questions

The Green GT

No 13 year olds are safe around me.

10 Year Member

Jan 8, 2006

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Louisiana

Jan 29, 2017

#1

• Jan 29, 2017

• #1

Ive got my engine on a sand and all torn down, so I'm replacing all of the gaskets and seals. The kit I ordered came with the 2 piece rear main, so I need to get a new one. And it came with a 2 piece cork il pan gasket, and there's no way in hell Im using that.

So for the oil pan gasket, should I go the one piece rubber, or the one piece rubbe w/ steel core?

And what's the easiest way to get the rear main out?

 

RaggedGT

Been here over a DECADE and still no CT

Mod Dude

Jul 20, 2014

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Taylorsville ky

Jan 29, 2017

#2

• Jan 29, 2017

• #2

I like using the one piece oil pan gasket with the steel.
There's a rear main seal tool to pull and install it. But..... I've used a small flat screwdriver and an ice pick a few times to get them out

 

The Green GT

No 13 year olds are safe around me.

10 Year Member

Jan 8, 2006

1,269

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99

Louisiana

Jan 29, 2017

#3

• Jan 29, 2017

• #3

The kit also came with cork valve cover gaskets. Think those will be good? If they leak theyre pretty easy to get to. So I'm not too worried about it. Ive got so many small things to get for this engine that one less thing is always good.

 

RaggedGT

Been here over a DECADE and still no CT

Mod Dude

Jul 20, 2014

4,738

3,186

203

Taylorsville ky

Jan 30, 2017

#4

• Jan 30, 2017

• #4

Cork is a really good gasket,I work for an industrial radiator repair shop,recore's,tank jobs etc all get put back together a majority of the time with cork gaskets/and most come new with cork gaskets lol . just don't go nuts when you tighten them down and they should stay leak free for a long time

 

90lxwhite

I'm kind of a She-Man

5 Year Member

Aug 25, 2011

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Between the Red and Rio

Feb 1, 2017

#5

• Feb 1, 2017

• #5

Is the rear main currently leaking? If it's not then I wouldn't change it. Mine wasn't leaking w over 250k miles on it. I had the motor rebuilt and it started leaking about a year later the new seal started to leak.
Maybe it was just my experience but it seems like it's hard to get them not to leak after a replacement.

 

jozsefsz

15 Year Member

Aug 11, 2013

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Cleveland OH Area

Feb 3, 2017

#6

• Feb 3, 2017

• #6

I wouldn't use cork gaskets anywhere if it's avoidable. They may work in the short-term, but they'll stick and they're guaranteed single-use. Eventually (in some years) they'll dry out and leak. On the valve covers, the stock gaskets are silicon-covered metal. Stick with those (they're reusable) or get replacements. You may find rocker-clearance issues if you use a different type.

I'd disagree about the rear seal, most folks report the opposite experience. Change it, but make sure the crank isn't grooved. If it is, sleeve it or you'll leak - old or new seal.

 

90lxwhite

I'm kind of a She-Man

5 Year Member

Aug 25, 2011

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Between the Red and Rio

Feb 3, 2017

#7

• Feb 3, 2017

• #7

jozsefsz said:

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I'd disagree about the rear seal, most folks report the opposite experience. Change it, but make sure the crank isn't grooved. If it is, sleeve it or you'll leak - old or new seal.

Click to expand...

Dang, nah? If my clutch every goes out I guess I'll try it again.

 

jozsefsz

15 Year Member

Aug 11, 2013

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Cleveland OH Area

Feb 4, 2017

#8

• Feb 4, 2017

• #8

@90lxwhite your point is definitely a good one. if the seal and the crank wore together, you have high mileage, it's not leaking, and you don't plan on getting a sleeve, you might be better off just leaving it alone. that and today's Chinese parts aren't what they used to be, so it wouldn't surprise me if seal quality is included in that.