Changing oil?

mustangbru8

New Member
May 6, 2004
56
0
0
I know this is kinda sad but I have never changed my oil before and need to change it before I put the car away in a couple weeks. I was always buisy and doing too much other stuff and it was just easier to pay somebody. Is the drain plug pretty far underneath the car, down on the bottom of the oil pan at an angle. Obviously I can get to the filter, it's right there, but it seems like the bolt is pretty far back there. Thanks a lot and sorry for the stupid question. Also you got any tips, and how do you prevent a dry startup.
 
I use a pair of home-made ramps built from 2 x 10 framing lumber to raise the front wheels 4.5" (three boards high). The top board is 18" long, the middle 30", and the bottom 48" (one 8 ft board makes one ramp). A 2 x 4 at the top end serves as a stop so you don't drive over the end by mistake. Screw of nail the boards together. Oil and filter changes are easy with this setup, and you don't have to work under a jack or mess with jackstands. In fact, you don't even need a jack.
 
thanks, I have never taken it to a quickie lube place, but I planned on getting one of those wrenches anyway, they aren't expensive right? Also where do you guys discard your oil?
 
....fill the oil filter a little less then half way to help prevent a "dry" start up. And when tightening the oil filter you only have to go hand tight becuase there is a suction on the filter so no need to gorilla it on.


Push jack in from behind drivers side wheel. You will see a solid beam that things seem to tie into. Jack up just enough so you can lay underneath the car coming in from the front of the drivers wheel. The size of the bolt is like an 16mm.

Drain the oil then tighten the oil pan drain bolt tight (1grunt=snug, 2grunts= Tight)

Drag your oil catch pan forward and remove the oil filter, oil will pour out of the oil filter so be ready for a about an 6-12oz spill. Pick up an oil filter strap for ez oil filter removal from wal-mart or pep boys or where ever.

Take out your new filter and fill slightly ( remember you will have this sideways screwing it back on) also dip your finger in the new oil cap and apply around the oil filter rubber seal (better seal & will come off easier)

Once the new filter is on and drain plug is tight fill the engine with 4-6 quarts - refer to owners manual. You will see an engine oil cap on one of the valve covers and this will SCREW on and off

Put a rag around the hole to pick up any that drips. If you dont have a funnel just use your thumb to cover the oil tip the quart upside down or sideways and slowly remove your thumb and stick the quart in the fill hole.

Good luck and have fun! :flag:
 
I changed mine for the first time on my own and man was it a bitch.
There's hardly any room to get the freakin' filter off.
I couldn't get any type of wrench in there to get it off and believe me, our on base hobby shop has a lot of them.
I'm not sure it I'll so it again myself or just take my oil and filter to SpeeDee Lube and let them do it.
I do love the lubed for life chassis!!!!!
 
I changed my own oil last time. The filter was on there, but no way in hell could I fit a wrench in there... just no way.

Do synthetic so you don't have to change it for 10,000 miles. :nice:
 
I use the factory recommended Motorcraft FL-820S filter, and my $1.50 band-type wrench grabs it just fine. With shallow (3" - 5" high) ramps, the front bumper is raised nearly 12". Plenty of room for access. The oil drain plug is a lot harder to reach (long arms are an advantage).
I learned the first time that oil runs all over the frame when the filter is loosened. Now I punch a hole in it with a screwdriver and let it drain first.