Charging issue, help please

[Rynb15]

Ok if you read my other post about a week ago I had a problem with the batt on blah blah. Well i took my alternator to autozone and it failed. Slapped a new one, jumped the car, batt light went off,batt guage right in the middle and would move with the revs. Let it run for about 10 min, turn it off and start it back up in like 10 min, turns on problem solved. Nope, about an hour later i went to start it up and it was dead. So it sound like something is drawing power while it sits there. But origianlly when the alternator went out I had a brand new batt installed and it lasted a couple days of just starting it up in the drive way. After awhile the guage just fell to low and finnally didnt have enough juice to start.. So....

 

[2000xp8]

Something is killing your power.

I had this problem with the hatch lights. It was hard to see because my rear window was tinted and i had the hatch cover on.
It was the little pop out switch that goes down when the hatch is closed.

 

[HISSIN50]

I have to ask too - you did have the new alt bench tested before leaving the parts store, right?

I learned this by getting a couple bad ones (per the parts store's own testing) right out of the box.

2000 has some good ideas. Dont forget stuff like the glovebox light, vanity mirror lights, underhood light, etc.

Good luck.

 

[Rynb15]

thanks guys, i checked all that stuff and didnt find anything on. The only thing i can think is that i changed a couple of blown fuses in the fuse box the other day. Maybe they were blown for a reason? I dont know. I just went out and jumped it and drove around for a little bit. Ill go check on it in like an hour and see if it fires up.

 

[2000xp8]

I'd make my best effort to return the chain store alternator anyway. They are crap.
You'd be better getting one from a 94 up and converting it.
Or i still have a true ford reman that i removed to install a 95 alternator. I really don't want to chuck it, i'd be willing to part with it for $20+shipping. Cost me like 159 from ford.

 

[Rynb15]

ok well after it sat for a hour it started right up. So then i let it sit for 2 hours and its dead again. I dont think its the alt because it runs and drives perfect. And the batt has charge to start up after it sits for a little bit. Its just after a couple hours its dead.

 

[bobbyd]

i have the same problem with my car....after a few hourse it kills the batt. might be my alt not sure i have a system on the car but its not on so i dont know what can be the problem.

 

[cjnecessary]

had the same prob. w/ my car. just changed the power cable from the batt. to the starter sel.

 

[bobbyd]

had the same prob. w/ my car. just changed the power cable from the batt. to the starter sel.

hmmm im gonna have to try this and hopefully thats my problem aswell

 

[Skoobie]

Ditto on the problem. My vanity light was on. The lid would not stay closed tight enough to keep the button down. My vote is on an interior light. I went as far as to take out all my interior lights and that fixed it. Put them back one at a time till i nailed it down. Good luck

 

[Rynb15]

dumb question but how many lights are there? I think i know where they all are but just want to make sure

 

[2000xp8]

Pretty simple.
Open each door, 1 by 1.

Then push the striker button and see if the light goes off. Do with the passenger, drivers, glove compartment, hatch and hood.

 

[Skoobie]

The ones people miss a lot are the glove box, the light in the sun visor, and the trunk light. One of those are most likely the culprit

 

[Rynb15]

well i think all the lights are covered. I just went out turned it on let it run for about 10 mins revving it up some. I turned it off a went to turn it back on right away and not enough juice to turn the motor. So i guess its the alt. Ill go check it by disconecting the neg batt terminal and see what happens.

 

[Skoobie]

Try giving the battery a good charge first. If you have a multi-meter you can check the volts at the battery terminals. Should be anywhere from 13.5-14.5 @ idle

 

[Rynb15]

Try giving the battery a good charge first. If you have a multi-meter you can check the volts at the battery terminals. Should be anywhere from 13.5-14.5 @ idle

ya i think im going to buy one of those tomorrow. well its not the alt. Went and started it up and disconected the batt and car ran fine. Turned the lights on and it bogged a little but didnt kill it. So the batt going on the charger tonight. thanks again for the help everyone.

 

[HISSIN50]

Went and started it up and disconected the batt and car ran fine.

I would not do that again. That is old-school testing for old school cars (non computerized). The battery acts like a buffer of sorts and when the battery cable is disco'd while the car runs, it can cause/allow a spike to rip through the electrical system. Computers dont like that.

Getting a DMM will make diagnosing this possible - otherwise it's all guesses. If on the cheap, Harbor Freight puts meters on sale for under 5 bucks all the time.

Good luck.

 

[jrichker]

Typically it is something draining the battery. Small things like glove box or courtesy lights are often the culprits. If you have an aftermarket stereo or alarm system, it is also suspect.

The ideal method is to disconnect the positive terminal, and connect a Digital Multimeter (DVM) between the positive terminal on the battery and the positive cable. Set the DVM on a low current scale of 2-5 amps if it doesn't auto range. Watch the current draw, and then start pulling out fuses. When you see a sudden drop in the current, that circuit is the likely culprit. Note that the computer, radio & clock will draw less than 1/10 amp to keep the settings alive.

See http://assets.fluke.com/appnotes/automotive/beatbook.pdf. You will need the Adobe Acrobat viewer which is also a free download – http://www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/readstep2.html

 

[bobbyd]

Typically it is something draining the battery. Small things like glove box or courtesy lights are often the culprits. If you have an aftermarket stereo or alarm system, it is also suspect.

The ideal method is to disconnect the positive terminal, and connect a Digital Multimeter (DVM) between the positive terminal on the battery and the positive cable. Set the DVM on a low current scale of 2-5 amps if it doesn't auto range. Watch the current draw, and then start pulling out fuses. When you see a sudden drop in the current, that circuit is the likely culprit. Note that the computer, radio & clock will draw less than 1/10 amp to keep the settings alive.

See http://assets.fluke.com/appnotes/automotive/beatbook.pdf. You will need the Adobe Acrobat viewer which is also a free download – http://www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/readstep2.html

If its the stereo the stereo should be able to turn on without the key right?
im gonna try all of that.

will this Multimeter work? http://www.seattlerobotics.org/encoder/200002/22-802.jpg

 

[bobbyd]

ya i think im going to buy one of those tomorrow. well its not the alt. Went and started it up and disconected the batt and car ran fine. Turned the lights on and it bogged a little but didnt kill it. So the batt going on the charger tonight. thanks again for the help everyone.

did you fix your problem yet?