Chassis experts and subframe questions.

[Edbert]

Is the purpose behind integrating them into the floors to gain ground clearance? I'm asking becuase there's not MUCH to be gained and I'm sorta with Jay on that...the extra work and headache don't seem to have a payoff.

I have a set of Global West SFCs welded into my vert and they don't hang any lower than the long tubes do. Remember you only have as much clearance as your lowest part.

EDIT: Here's a pic I found showing how they tuck in pretty well, the traction bars are lower as is the differential.

 

[Protowrxs]

Is the purpose behind integrating them into the floors to gain ground clearance? I'm asking becuase there's not MUCH to be gained and I'm sorta with Jay on that...the extra work and headache don't seem to have a payoff.

From my understanding there are structual advantages to integral subframe connectors. By directly connecting the subs from point to point and tying in the floor pans you should end up with a stronger overall structure.

Given for a street/minor strip car I doubt the difference is worth the effort

I'm in the same situation of trying to decide which sub frame connectors to use (thread at www.1969Mustang.com) and still haven't made up my mind.

-Stephen

 

[Hack]

I have GW subframe connectors in my vert. They are tubular and hang down a few inches below the pans.

They drag and smash into the ground here and there. It's pretty annoying, plus it will scare the crap out of any passenger. It makes a really loud banging sound when they hit, even at a crawl. Of course my vert is lowered quite a bit, but the rear is at stock ride height. Once or twice I thought I might get "high-sided" and stick somewhere. That would be a real pain.

My next set will be either through the floor or welded to the floor. I like the look of a low car. I want to lower the rear, but right now I don't think I could get out of my alley if I did that.

I think that anything you can do to stiffen the chassis is good on these cars. Welding the whole length of the subframe connectors to the floor doesn't add much weight, but should make quite a difference in stiffness.

 

[Protowrxs]

I have GW subframe connectors in my vert. They are tubular and hang down a few inches below the pans.
They drag and smash into the ground here and there. It's pretty annoying...

Ack... thanks for the info. I think I just might roll my own just for the heck of it since I'm replacing the floor pans anyhow. At least it would suposedly be what I want by basically following the process 68Converted linked to but making them integral.

Good luck 68Converted on yours. Mine is just an old coupe and will likely be much easier to get done.

-Stephen

 

[68converted]

I have a one inch drop in the rear and a two inch drop in the front. (though after removing the sagging old springs for new 620's- w/ a half of a coil cut out, the change is more like an inch and a half. My biggest concern is the ground clearance, second and probably more important is strength. Spring is months away so I have time. I see what you are saying though, Edbert. Side note- went to your sight and the car looks real sweet!

Anyway, effort is not the issue with me. I am a staunch believer in "do it right the first time". That's why I ask so many questions of you guys and with other stang forums and friends. I am going to hand this car over to my son on his 16th B-day, and want it to be killer clean and perform better. (I have 9years to test drive it ) My first car was a '68 coupe and it was a waste basket from the PO's. Almost turned me off of classic cars right there. My son (7yrs) loves the car and helps me with everything. (he says hi to all BTW-he is the reason I use all the smiley things):OT:

 

[Hack]

Ack... thanks for the info. I think I just might roll my own just for the heck of it since I'm replacing the floor pans anyhow. At least it would suposedly be what I want by basically following the process 68Converted linked to but making them integral.

Good luck 68Converted on yours. Mine is just an old coupe and will likely be much easier to get done.

-Stephen

One thing I should add is that I'm by no means saying the GW subframe connectors are bad. They are in fact great, fit well, well built, and made a big difference in the car's handling. I've looked at them after quite a bit of driving (and some dragging) and they are still in good condition (they do of course have scrapes but I'm surprised at how well they are holding up).

It's just that I want my car lowered and every inch counts, especially in the middle of the car.

 

[Protowrxs]

One thing I should add is that I'm by no means saying the GW subframe connectors are bad.

Understood. I like them myself but have been concerned about using them due to how they drop below the rear sub. I'm still up in the air in regard to what to do but have to decide before welding up my floor pans.

68Converted: Cool hearing you're building up the car for your son. That is part of my build as well. I remember someone saying I should keep the car for my son when he was born. That was 10 years ago.. yikes!

-Stephen

 

[mdjay]

While building my vert, we had access to the inner rockers and ran square stock all the way down it. 90 degreed it into the front subframe. The rear is a little more touchy since the leaf spring front eye mounts are there. So it wouldn't be a straight shot. However I'm putting the Heidt's independent rear on so it will be a straight shot. I'll get a picture later today. There are several reasons why I did this but I will still weld in the subs. I do like my cars low as well but the ground clearance on my coupe is fine. My scatter shield is the lowest point on my car. As far as speed bumps are concerned, you either take them quick, or super slow.

 

[68converted]

On ground clearance, I am not worried about something going right down the center. It is the middle of the car that worries me. What I mean is that as the wheels go up over a speed bump, anything hanging down just in front or just behind is safe, but as the speed bump approaches the middle of the car, this is the clearance problem. Same idea with 4wheeling, thats why we crawl OVER the rocks rather than let them go down the middle. I took a measurement of ride height at the middle and it is right at 8" on those pans. Most speed bumps are at least 6" at the highest point. Not much clearance right now, so saving an inch will certainly help.

 

[mdjay]

Keep in mind, I don't really build these with streetability at the forefront. I'm more on the performance side then practicality. So there are consideration for daily drivers.

 

[68converted]

Keep in mind, I don't really build these with streetability at the forefront. I'm more on the performance side then practicality. So there are consideration for daily drivers.

Now that is what should have been done right out of the factory. Take a look at Factory5's frame.