Im trying to find out how to correctly install (wire) a chevy alternator in my 86 mustang. My cousin ran the red wire to the battery cable and taped up the white wire. I know this cant be right! Hoping someone can help me figure this out. Its drained my battery, bought a new one and its draining that too.
Electrical Chevy Alternator Hook Up?
- Thread starter Momoftoo
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You put a chevy alternator on a Ford and then complain that it sucked the life out of your battery?
Don't you know that chevy is car of choice for vampires?
Don't you know that chevy is car of choice for vampires?
Need a little more info than "Chevy Alternator", and also why not just run the correct alternator?
Need to know of the alternator is internally regulated, or externally regulated, and figure out how that alternator is wired, and if it's even compatible.
Honestly, easier to just wire up a Ford 3G or 6G and call it a day and not worry about the car catching on fire.
Need to know of the alternator is internally regulated, or externally regulated, and figure out how that alternator is wired, and if it's even compatible.
Honestly, easier to just wire up a Ford 3G or 6G and call it a day and not worry about the car catching on fire.
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Coulda/shoulda/woulda bought a 1-wire if you want a GM alternator (that's what I run on my car, Chevy 1-wire).
Since you have a 3-wire, you've got extra steps.
1. Run 10 gauge wire from the positive post on the back of the alternator to the battery.
2. Run the red wire from the 2-wire pigtail to the post on the back of the alternator.
3. (the tricky part) Run the white wire from the 2-wire pigtail to an ignition hot wire, placing either a diode, a resistor, or wiring a light-bulb inline on the wire to provide some load so the alternator doesn't cause a run-on condition when the key is shut off. Without this wire, the alternator will not energize (as you've already found out).
Since you have a 3-wire, you've got extra steps.
1. Run 10 gauge wire from the positive post on the back of the alternator to the battery.
2. Run the red wire from the 2-wire pigtail to the post on the back of the alternator.
3. (the tricky part) Run the white wire from the 2-wire pigtail to an ignition hot wire, placing either a diode, a resistor, or wiring a light-bulb inline on the wire to provide some load so the alternator doesn't cause a run-on condition when the key is shut off. Without this wire, the alternator will not energize (as you've already found out).
falconater
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Neither. Real-life.
The 3G is more complicated to wire for retrofit applications (outside of certain similar Ford applications), not available in as high output as the IS, and not as readily available (there isn't a parts store in the country that doesn't stock a 3-wire GM IS alternator, can't say that for the 3G anymore).
Throw in that the IS lasts pretty much forever, and you've got a winner.
I'm not a fanboi, a purist, or a concours snob. I use what works. My Chevy hot rods all have Ford starter solenoids, my old school Fords get GM 1-wire alternators.
broncojunkie
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i'm all for what works, used to have a rambler, they used all different stuff, it was a pain. I year gm this, next year motorcraft that.
A hand crank generator was better than the fox alternator.
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