CHOKE? WE DON'T NEED NO STINKING CHOKE!!!!!!!!!

What I gained ? No hassles stemming from a malfunctioning choke. No running rich because of it. No choke slamming shut (had this happen at the drag strip with the 331 and it's sixpack setup with it's manual choke) when doing a burnout. No sticking in fast idle either. The butterfly does create some airflow restriction, how much is a 64 million dollar question though. All I know is I don't need one and simply taking 5 minutes to remove it is time well worth spending. The hole thru the throttle body that the choke rod passes thru on a Holley can be plugged by leaving the plastic bearing slide in place and screwing screw thru the hole. There's probably more gain here that I haven't thought of.

If you've got a good electronic ignition, and a wide LSA (EFI type)cam, you shouldn't need it. With a narrower LSA, at best all you'll need do on cool-cold mornings is baby it a few minutes til it warms enough to idle on it's own.

Yea, you can remove it. I remove all of the parts on mine, choke, choke butterfly and rod, and the linkage behind the choke assembly. The hole thru the throttle body, that the linkage passes thru can be plugged with a flat head screw, screwed thru the plastic bushing the linkage goes thru. To start the engine, just give it a pump shot before starting, then feather the throttle till it idles on it's own. In winter that may take a few minutes, it'll give the heater time to warm too. If it doesn't start with one pump shot, give it another. With a good ignition, two shots of the accellerator pedal are usually all's needed, unless the vehicle has sat a while and the gas has evaporated out the bowl. In which case you'll need to crank it more to give a mechanical fuel pump time to recharge the fuel bowl. With an electric pump, it'll need to have the ignition on before cranking to do this. (my 77 Comet is this way, it's only started once a week at most)