Chrome Alternator Fried

94GTLaserRC · Dec 10, 2004

yellow1995Cobra said:
Its most likely just the "brushes" which pick the electricity off the coils(two brushes). Typically they are made of carbon, and wear out quickly from high heat.

I cant see why they would not cover something like that. Unless the company determines you over heated it, which with the blower in Florida heat along with a chrome case, i can see how that happens.

Thanks for the insight.
The chrome is bought chrome, so it's not that. It gets shipped back, so the company doesnt ask/know what mods are in it. The company said it covers everything except "burning" out.

QUESTION:

If you go to an auto parts store to have it checked, do they tell you "what" is wrong with it, or only whether or not it works?

ALSO:

WHere is JR responding to this? I wanted to find out where he got his, price, etc.

RC

mo_dingo · Dec 10, 2004

94GTLaserRC said:
QUESTION:

If you go to an auto parts store to have it checked, do they tell you "what" is wrong with it, or only whether or not it works?
RC

THey will just tell whether or not you that your alt. is bad. Trust me, you don't want to depend on them for anything more than that.

Secondly, to test the voltage regulator, start the car, and put a multimeter across the battery terminals. The alternator puts out 14.4V all the time. The voltage regulator should allow the full 14.4V to charge the battery after using it to start the car. After a few minutes of the car running, check the voltage again. It should have dipped down to ~13.5. This means the voltage regulator is working 100%.
Scott

94GTLaserRC · Dec 11, 2004

mo_dingo said:
Secondly, to test the voltage regulator, start the car, and put a multimeter across the battery terminals............
Scott

Scott,
I have a "multimeter" that I use to do electric work in my house. What setting on the meter do I use? ( you know, the knob that you turn to select the type of voltage, see pic)

Thanks
RC

RIO5.0 · Dec 11, 2004

RC...your pic shows the meter set where you would need it....20 DCV...you'll be under that when testing, so this is the setting you would want...

94GTLaserRC · Dec 11, 2004

RIO5.0 said:
RC...your pic shows the meter set where you would need it....20 DCV...you'll be under that when testing, so this is the setting you would want...

I just found that pic on Google

Ill check it out when I can.

DOES THIS INFO HELP, relating to what Scott said:

When I start the car, the needle on my stock gauge moves quickly to the r/m in "NORMAL" after a few seconds, it moves slighly to the left of center in "r".

After running a few minutes, it kinda levels off between O and R, and hangs there, moving only slightly with revving or operation of a power device.

Kinda sounds like the "descriptive" version of the Numbers Scott is referring to.

Thanks
RC

baglock1 · Dec 11, 2004

Yeah RC. That's about what it should be doing.

94GTLaserRC · Dec 11, 2004

Thanks Dan..Ill send the Alt back next week and see if it's still covered. Until then At least I can drive my kids around with "some" piece of mind.
RC

madams74 · Dec 11, 2004

baglock1 said:
Because the alt is capable of putting out so much juice, a regulator must be in place for times when the battery doesn't need the power. This keeps the battery from being overcharged and the alt from being overly taxed.

Juice? Since we have mentioned Florida a few times I assume your talkin the Orange kind? YUMMY!

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