You can still get the the clear caps; I see them every now and then on VW bugs with open engine covers and in Summit.
I havent seen a chrome cap either, probably for the conductivity reason above. The only way it would work is if the inside was bare and the chrome didnt go all the way to the meatal terminals. You could mask one off and paint it silver....
Is there any chrome paint out there that is wortha crap. I bought a can of crome spray paint at auto zone, and when I looket at the results, I would say it is grey not even close to chrome.
Is that pretty mush what I cna expect with any chrome paints?
even the chrome paint or any silver paint for that matter is goinf to have metallic particles in it, which will cause the same problems as the chrome cap. not a good idea for a distributor cap.
Unless the paint stops around the bottom of the plug wire boots on the cap, you still risk the same shorting problem. The distributor body is part of the engine ground and high voltage loves to take short cuts.
If you're willing to sacrifice the chrome look for aluminum, Plasti-Kote's aluminum colored engine paint is a dead ringer for satin aluminum. You'll want the 500 degree engine enamel, NOT 1500. The 1500 freaking rubs off on your hands unless you can literally bake it on.
That wouldn't work too well. The purpose of the plastic part of the distributor cap is that it doesn't conduct electricity, chrome is a metal and conducts.
Maybe I will give up on that idea. I was wanting to see how much chrome I could get under the hood:
Alternator, Export Brace, Dashpot, Radiator cap, Shock Tower Bracket...
I have had a chrome dist. cap on my 69/302 for over 7 years. Just got a replacement..think it was 2 years ago from a hot rod supplier from Florida. Will post name when I can find it. It's the same type of chrome plating that you would find on interior dash parts. Only problem is that any chemical contact will discolor it.
I can't see this working too well in anything but perfect conditions - get a bit of moisture or dirt involved, or an uprated coil, and you'll be tracking all over it.
You don't need much of a coil hop-up before you need to replace a stock cap with a larger diameter one to increase the distances between the terminals - I don't think there's much room for error here, but if it works, go for it.