Circuit Failure... Please Help!!!!

[AnthonyR23]

Hi.. so I have been battling these error codes for about a month...

I received code 84 a couple days ago.. but while trying to figure out what was wrong and checking error codes again... got code 81 aswell..

I am getting 22psi vacuum which is good going into the solenoid... at the bottom of the solenoid.. can someone check to make sure that the vacuum supply line should be at the bottom of the solenoid.. and the output line at the top.. that goes to the egr valve.

So at Idle I am not getting any vacuum to the egr valve which is good.. when I rev it up to 2500 like I was told too I still am getting no vacuum through the solenoid..

I hooked up the supply vacuum directly to the egr bypassing the solenoid and the engine stumbled.. which is a good sign...

So that leaves me to either a bad solenoid or bad wiring.. I checked the positive (red) wire and I am getting 12v. I know the computer gives the green wire ground or no ground to open and close it.. I tried ground the ground wire and still no vacuum to the egr.

So next step.. would be to unground it.. should I try cutting the wire and seeing if it opens up.. then I can just sauder it back together???

Code 81 says air management circuit 2 failure.... any ideas about that code??

 

[jrichker]

Tools needed:
DVM or Multimeter
3/16” vacuum hose – about 2’ long
12 volt test lamp with alligator clips
2 each 48” long 18 gauge jumper wire with alligator clips

EVR electrical testing:

The next step involves a test light and some patience. Connect one side of the test light up to battery power. Disconnect the EGR vacuum regulator electrical connector. Clip the other wire from the test light to the dark green wire on the EGR electrical connector.

Next, jumper the computer test connector into test mode as if you are going to dump the codes. Turn the ignition switch to the Run position. The computer will cycle the actuators and relays prior to dumping the codes. Watch the test lamp to see if it flickers. If it flickers, the computer and wiring are OK

If the test lamp flickers, set the ohmmeter to low scale if it does not auto range. With the EVR electrical connector disconnected, measure the resistance across the regulator electrical contacts. You should see 30-60 ohms. If the regulator resistance readings do not fall within the limits, the regulator is defective. The spare regulator I have reads 44 ohms.

EVR vacuum testing:
The EV has two vacuum connections on it. One is for the vacuum source and the other is regulated vacuum. Cross the vacuum lines and the regulator will not work correctly. The top vacuum connection is regulated vacuum out. The bottom vacuum line is manifold vacuum in.
Connect the EVR bottom vacuum line to a vacuum source on the intake manifold.
Connect the EVR top vacuum line to the vacuum gauge.
Connect one of the jumper clips to ground, connect the other end of the jumper wire to either one of the EVR electrical contacts.
Connect a jumper clip to the other EVR electrical contact. Make sure that the jumper clips do not touch each other. Smoke and sparks will be the result if they do touch.

Start the engine and let it idle. Touch the free end of the jumper clip that is connected to the EVR electrical contact to the + side of the battery. The reading on the vacuum gauge should increase. Remove the jumper clip from the battery, the reading should decrease. If the reading does not change, the EVR is defective.

 

[AnthonyR23]

Great thanks!! I will try!!

 

[AnthonyR23]

I just purchased a kit from late model restoration that includes 2 oxygen sensors, the tab tad and egr vacuum solenoids.. and a/c and ecu relays for 89.99.. So I am gonna wait and see if that clears up those codes.. nothing wrong with having spare parts!!!! thanks again though...