Classic Injection
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gonzothegreat
Member
'90 EFI harness / computer.
Check out my website for some more info:
Classic Mustang EFI
As far as the tank, I built a sump and welded it in (used external pump). I would look into one of the units that you drill through the top of the tank and mount inside as my setup is not ideal.
Check out my website for some more info:
Classic Mustang EFI
As far as the tank, I built a sump and welded it in (used external pump). I would look into one of the units that you drill through the top of the tank and mount inside as my setup is not ideal.
I can't hear the pump at all over the exhaust. Even in a quieter car this particular pump is pretty quiet and I've got it rubber mounted so it doesn't vibrate the sheetmetal. Only time I hear it is at startup when the EFI system pre-charges the fuel system.
I could have used an intank pump (one of the drill / drop-in kits. Look on Fordmuscle.com in the tech area for more info), but didn't because I didn't want fuel lines inside the trunk area. I've since rethought that and will be looking to change to an in-tank setup at some point in the future.
I could have used an intank pump (one of the drill / drop-in kits. Look on Fordmuscle.com in the tech area for more info), but didn't because I didn't want fuel lines inside the trunk area. I've since rethought that and will be looking to change to an in-tank setup at some point in the future.
Shakin66
Founding Member
I have a fuel system that is ready for EFI but am running a blow thru carb set up right now. The one item that you cant be without is an inertia switch in case of a wreck and then a fuel feed fire.
I originally installed a '98 Explorer engine with AFR 165's and a CompCams XE258HR cam into my '70, using a Weiand X-celerator single plane intake with a Holley Street Avenger 770 carburetor, but when it got cold, the choke would come on and cause the engine to idle up FAR too long, so I decided to use the Explorer intake and convert it over to EFI.
There are a LOT of things to consider when doing this swap . . . most of it has been covered by other posts or web articles.
I went with an external pump, and am going to switch over to the in-tank pump mentioned in the Fordmuscle.com articles.
I used a FRPP harness, and then because I am going to upgrade to a stroker, later, used a set of FRPP 39lb injectors and a FRPP 90mm Lightning MAF which required either a chip or something that could control those injectors and MAF, so I purchased a TwEECer and am still fine tuning my engine now.
There are lots of little "gotchas" along the way . . . research well, and you'll be prepared for them.
There are a LOT of things to consider when doing this swap . . . most of it has been covered by other posts or web articles.
I went with an external pump, and am going to switch over to the in-tank pump mentioned in the Fordmuscle.com articles.
I used a FRPP harness, and then because I am going to upgrade to a stroker, later, used a set of FRPP 39lb injectors and a FRPP 90mm Lightning MAF which required either a chip or something that could control those injectors and MAF, so I purchased a TwEECer and am still fine tuning my engine now.
There are lots of little "gotchas" along the way . . . research well, and you'll be prepared for them.
I wasn't aware of an easy method of using an in-tank pump until I saw the Fordmuscle article, and that was *after* I had already installed the items . . . since then, I decided to go that route because it's MUCH cleaner, and it will quiet down the whine of the pump quite a bit.
I've already purchased a new tank (cost me $80 + shipping) and the pump kit from Tanks, Inc.--the only thing left I need to do is purchase are some bulkhead fittings and then I can get started on putting it all together.
There are two parts; you actually have to have a membership there to read the full article.
Here is part 1:
How To - In-Tank EFI Fuel Pump Modification | FordMuscle.com
Part 2:
How To - In-Tank EFI Fuel Pump Modification | FordMuscle.com
Shakin66
Founding Member
Really the only thing you gain with a in-tank pump is the quiet factor.
I did the EFI swap (93 5.0, stock wiring) and put my pump on the frame rail directly below the passenger seat. It is about a foot below the gas tank so it never sucks.
As you'll remeber from physics, thanks to the siphon effect, the fuel hose can go up from the tank outlet following the frame rail over the rear end and still feed the pump as long as its lower than the tank outlet.
I never have any fuel supply issues, but it is loud as crap - that's the trade off.
One thing I do like about mine is that I run a high flow prefilter before the pump as well as one after so I know my fuel is squeaky clean.
Good luck...
Posted via Mobile Device
I did the EFI swap (93 5.0, stock wiring) and put my pump on the frame rail directly below the passenger seat. It is about a foot below the gas tank so it never sucks.
As you'll remeber from physics, thanks to the siphon effect, the fuel hose can go up from the tank outlet following the frame rail over the rear end and still feed the pump as long as its lower than the tank outlet.
I never have any fuel supply issues, but it is loud as crap - that's the trade off.
One thing I do like about mine is that I run a high flow prefilter before the pump as well as one after so I know my fuel is squeaky clean.
Good luck...
Posted via Mobile Device
Reinventing the wheel...er...tank
I am taking the path less traveled for the fuel tank.
The pictures below are the original tank from the '66 in the signature. I've decided to baffle, and sump the tank for an intank Fox style pump. The caveat is the fuel lines come out near the sending unit. Actually the sending unit will be the return line. The black #8 bulkhead is the pressure line. It's way over kill, but the advantages are:
Good luck with your project.
I am taking the path less traveled for the fuel tank.
The pictures below are the original tank from the '66 in the signature. I've decided to baffle, and sump the tank for an intank Fox style pump. The caveat is the fuel lines come out near the sending unit. Actually the sending unit will be the return line. The black #8 bulkhead is the pressure line. It's way over kill, but the advantages are:
- No Fuel lines in the trunk with the battery and relays
- fuel pump will be serviceable through the trunk
- The top of the pump is recessed so a stock trunk mat will sit flat
- Baffled and sumped tank
- Kind of stealthy with only a 1" deep sump
BTW: this is the original tank! pretty clean on the inside. I got lucky.
Good luck with your project.
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