Pretty much wasting your time by sticking with the stock quad, because you're gonna be back under there again when the thing inevitably turns brittle and breaks on you, leaving you stranded somewhere unpleasant. But, regardless...
1. Jack up driver's side of car, or drive up on ramps. Prop hood open. Disconnect the negative battery cable ... not because you'll be dealing with anything electrical, but just because Chilton's and Haynes manuals are fanatical about including that step in EVERYTHING.
2. Shove the driver's seat all the way back. If you feel like laying down and doing things inverted, tilt the seat-back all the way down. If you REALLY feel energetic, unbolt and remove the driver's seat, completely. (I've never needed to, myself, but if you're a beefy dude, it might make things easier for ya'.
3. With a flashlight, look directly above the gas pedal under the dash ... NOT the clutch pedal. I know, it seems to defy logic, but it'll be there, trust me. See the big white (or probably yellow, with age) plastic quadrant and pawl? I can't say exactly how, unless you've got skinny hands like me, but reach up in there and pull up on the pawl so that you can rotate the quadrant enough to allow some slack on the cable - enough that you can unhook it with your fingers.
3-A. If you were replacing the stock quadrant with an aluminum piece, you could take advantage of this moment to savor the joy of destroying the stock plastic garbage. Mutilate it however you please. I've found that either a hacksaw blade and/or diagonal cutters make short work of that obnoxious little "ear" that sticks off the pawl and makes it such a PITA to remove. Keep the retainer hairpins, but chuck the rest of that crap in the garbage ... or throw it on the ground, point and laugh at it, and make your neighbors think you've lost your mind. (Works for me, anyway.)
3. With the dash end freed, get underhood and, if so equipped with one, remove the screw holding the clutch cable grommet to the firewall.
4. Remove the bolt holding the cable bracket to the framerail.
4-A. If you bought the "universal" Ford cable from MM, bend the curl of the stock cable bracket so that you can remove it and slip it onto the new cable, then crimp it back down (mildly, not God-awful tight) with a pair of pliers or Channel Locks.
4-B. If you purchased an adjustable cable or a cheap-o aftermarket cable (even if it's a non-adjustable OEM-fit cable, like Pioneer), slap yourself repeatedly, return that cable, and purchase a FORD cable. Please. Do it ... or suffer the consequences.
5. If so equipped, remove the clutch fork cover - remove one bolt and then pull it off by hand (it's held on with a spring-clip thingy of sorts inside).
6. Remove the C-clip holding the clutch cable onto the "ear" of the transmission ahead of the clutch fork. DO NOT LOSE THIS THING.
7. PAY VERY CLOSE ATTENTION TO HOW THE STOCK CABLE WAS ROUTED. Slip your new cable into place parallel to it (if you have room), or take digital pics for later reference. Routing your cable in such a way that it kinks things will NOT make for a happy left foot. Once you're sure you know exactly how it went in there ... unhook the clutch fork end of the cable and slip that old bugger outta there.
8. Set your old cable aside. Unless it is broken or completely unworthy of future use, SAVE YOUR STOCK CABLE. If you bought an adjustable cable or an aftermarket non-adjustable cheap-o parts store cable, you WILL wind up needing this thing in the future.
9. Route your new cable into place EXACTLY the same way as your stock piece. Go ahead and hook the clutch fork end of the cable on.
10. While pushing against the tranny "ear" with the cable, push that stupid little retaining C-clip back into place over the groove on the cable sheathing's end. This will either go very easy for you, or you will find yourself cussing a lot at this point because that stupid clip will want to bend or only go on halfway. A pair of pliers might make this part go a little easier. And for God's sakes, put the ear of that C-clip towards the OUTSIDE of the transmission, or you will hate yourself later on if/when you need to remove that thing again.
11. Bolt the cable-to-frame bracket back into place. Ditto for the firewall grommet screw.
11-A. If you were wise enough to buy a Ford cable with a firewall adjuster and aluminum quad, you would now take this opportunity to pull off the rubber grommet from the cable and then file or cut off the four little plastic barbs or "nubs" from the firewall end of the cable sheath so it'll poke easily into the FWA.
12. Spend the next couple of hours cussing and mutilating your fingers/knuckles while fighting to get that stupid friggin' cable end slipped over the end of the stock quadrant while somehow simultaneously holding the spring-loaded quadrant back.
12-A. If you had been wise enough to buy a FWA and alum. quad, this would be a 30-second step. Slip cable end onto quadrant, get out, and crank your FWA out until it takes up all of the loose cable slack. DONE.
Now, go get yourself a beer and wait for the dude with the stock quad/pawl setup to finish hooking up his cable.
13. After cable is successfully connected and slack has been dialed out, start 'er up, put it in gear, and SLOWLY let the clutch out. See where it catches. Re-adjust FWA as necessary, if applicable; if using the stock quad, you may need to pull UP on the clutch pedal, and then press down again (may be necessary to do this more than once) to rachet it into place.
Hope this helps.
