Clutch cable snapped today!

hotdog71 · Jun 19, 2010

I was driving somewhere yesterday afternoon and my f***ing cable stretched and snapped!

I took the car to a shop since I don't have time to fix it myself and apparently my clutch was failing and it caused the cable to break. They told my the clutch springs, housing, TOB, ect was rusted and the extra force caused the problem.. totally sucks!! there goes my Cobra clutch after about 65k!

Here is my question why would there be rust on the clutch if it's sealed?

Something that really sucks I just bought a new MAF a couple days ago to try and fix random surging between 3-4k when no throttle is applied and pinging sometimes...

trinity_gt · Jun 19, 2010

The clutch isn't sealed hermetically but I doubt the line the shop is giving you.

If the clutch wasn't slipping before the cable snapped it's most likely fine. Just get the cable replaced and be done with it. I'd find a new shop too, if possible, since it sounds like this one is trying to hose you.

As for the detonation, try swapping out the FIPK back to stock before replacing anything else. Mine detonated a bit in that RPM range between 3-4K with the FIPK too. Interestingly, a few years ago I did some math and it showed that, in theory, the intake resonates with intake pulses right around that frequency range. Resonation means a standing wave of pressure in the intake and if a "peak" or "valley" (esp.) is standing at the MAF sensor, it may falsely report the amount of air entering and lead to a lean condition. As well, the FIPK gets rid of the MAF screen which is an important part of ensuring smooth, even flow into the MAF.

With the KB blower now I can't run the FIPK tube but I run the filter section forward. I've modified the metal shield part to accept the OE MAF screen to get that flow-smoothing back.

hotdog71 · Jun 20, 2010

Hi,

I was having problems with the clutch before the cable snapped it was getting really heavy and making some nasty noises when operation the clutch. Due to the way things happened my car went to Ford so I would hope they are honest and ethical in the business practices!

As for the MAF I tried putting the stock filter back on ages ago and it didn't make any difference. I had the car in the Ford shop several times when it was still under warranty and they swapped IAC, TPS and a few other things I don't remember all of them but nothing worked. I would seem like it was ok for a few days then it would start playing up again.

The surging only happens when low, off throttle or in gear going down a hill for example. I just thought it might be the MAF or ECU???

Thanks

Rusty67 · Jun 20, 2010

If you are missing the clutch cover you might have a rust issue. The clutch cover fits over the throw out fork. If you are missing that piece you might end up with extra moisture accumulating in the bell housing. This could cause rust. I would take a look at the broken cable for rust.

Were you experiencing extreme pedal effort or annoying noises coming from the trans or throw out bearing ? Did the clutch pedal pulse or vibrate ? If not then there may be reason to worry that the shop is screwing you. Generally speaking clutch cables don't snap for no reason. How many miles are on the cable ?

bhuff30 · Jun 20, 2010

The real problem is probably the pressure plate. The dealership is probably simplifying the explanation, so that you (and the non-mechanic trained service rep talking to you) can understand what's going on. What is normal corrosion, they may call rust, and you replace the clutch and pressure plate together, thus you need a new 'clutch'. Sounds to me like everything makes sense from your explanation. You said it yourself, the clutch was getting heavy, thus that puts a lot more stress on the cable.

hotdog71 said:
I was having problems with the clutch before the cable snapped it was getting really heavy and making some nasty noises when operation the clutch.

trinity_gt · Jun 20, 2010

I still think it's just the cable.

Rust? On the pressure plate? Any rust would cause about as much trouble as a film of rust on the brake rotors after a rain. After one or two starts any such film of surface rust would be gone. Any water that might get in the bellhousing would be boiled off by the searing temperatures of normal clutch operation plus engine block and gearbox case temps. The diaphram spring has, basically, no moving parts. It simply distorts as the release bearing presses on its center fingers, pulling the outer edge back and pulling the pressure plate away from the disc. There's very little that can go wrong with this mechanism to increase pedal effort to cable-breaking levels.

The only reasonable thing that might cause a stiff pedal would be a release bearing galled on the trans sleeve but it would have to be pretty galled to break a cable...

A stiff pedal is almost always caused by corrosion and/or wear inside the cable jacket itself.

Rusty67 · Jun 21, 2010

trinity_gt said:
I still think it's just the cable.

Rust? On the pressure plate? Any rust would cause about as much trouble as a film of rust on the brake rotors after a rain. After one or two starts any such film of surface rust would be gone. Any water that might get in the bellhousing would be boiled off by the searing temperatures of normal clutch operation plus engine block and gearbox case temps. The diaphram spring has, basically, no moving parts. It simply distorts as the release bearing presses on its center fingers, pulling the outer edge back and pulling the pressure plate away from the disc. There's very little that can go wrong with this mechanism to increase pedal effort to cable-breaking levels.

The only reasonable thing that might cause a stiff pedal would be a release bearing galled on the trans sleeve but it would have to be pretty galled to break a cable...

A stiff pedal is almost always caused by corrosion and/or wear inside the cable jacket itself.

He said he has 65,000 miles on it. He could actually have worn the clutch out in 65,000 miles depending on driving conditions. This is why I say replace the clutch cable first then if it still sux get a new clutch.

While you are at it, you might want to put in the Maximum Motorsports clutch adjustment kit. I think its 150 for everything including a new cable.

hotdog71 · Jun 21, 2010

Thanks for all the feedback

The problem was very irritating prior to the cable snapping.

It started a while back when I noticed the clutch was getting heavier then normal then about 8-12 months back it started to make scraping sounds while operating the clutch but was faint. Then it got worse and I started to notice after the car had been sitting for a couple of days that when I started it I could hear a nasty scraping sound while not operation the clutch. The sound seemed to go away after the car warmed up.

I have the Tri-ax shifter and could feel the scrapping on the gear stick so I assumed the problem was with the clutch itself. So when they told me the clutch was shot and the cable had stretched and partially snapped I wasn't too surprised. He said the pressure plate springs were rusty/corroded, TOB was shot ect.

I did have a Steeda cable kit that I installed shortly after the clutch was fitted around 65k ago.

Now I am just looking forward to getting my ride back with new clutch

Rusty67 · Jun 21, 2010

Does the Steeda kit use an aftermarket or stock cable ? The stock cables are far superior to any after market reproduction. Maximum Motorsports only sells stock cables with their kits. They have tried a multitude of cables and have only been satisfied with the Ford units.

Mike97gt · Jun 21, 2010

trinity_gt said:
A stiff pedal is almost always caused by corrosion and/or wear inside the cable jacket itself.

Several things can cause a stiff pedal. Most of the ones I have seen was caused by the pressure plate or by a badly galled clutch fork pivot ball

98COBRA281 · Jun 21, 2010

i snapped a clutch cable one time while i was racing a KB gt...

hotdog71 · Jun 22, 2010

Rusty67 said:
Does the Steeda kit use an aftermarket or stock cable ? The stock cables are far superior to any after market reproduction. Maximum Motorsports only sells stock cables with their kits. They have tried a multitude of cables and have only been satisfied with the Ford units.

When I swapped it out a few yrs back I used the Steeda cable but since it has snapped I will by putting the stock one back in

Rusty67 · Jun 22, 2010

This makes some more sense now. Try it with just the stock cable and let us know if it goes back to a more normal feel. The aftermarket cables kinda suck...

Clutch cable snapped today!

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